cliff.b
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Posts posted by cliff.b
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1 hour ago, dougbgt6 said:
Yes, I did that too, strange that it's all there to do it, but they just didn't put the bulb in! Bean counters, I guess.
Doug
Maybe considered too "luxurious" for a Spitfire. Was it illuminated as standard in a GT6? Or was the same bezel used in any more upmarket saloons?
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2 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:
I got green LEDs for the gauges and for Halloween I put green in the courtesy light and foot well. The ceiling was one was a bit much afterwards, so I went back to white, but the footwell remains green.
Doug
LOL.
I used a green led to illuminate the heater controls.
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Some of my Spitfire gauges suffered from this but only in the evening which may have been the humidity level or may have been due to heat from the instrument bulbs.
When I refurbished the dash, I removed the gauges and left them on top of a radiator for a week to try and remove any moisture. Also, I replaced all the bulbs with LEDs while doing so and noticed that the green dome over the lamp on each gauge experiencing the issue had melted to some extent, so clearly they weren't sealed.
Anyway, the problem has now gone, I just don't know if it was the thorough drying out or replacing the bulbs which has done it.
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11 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
sizzle is a noise generated by fork contacting the sleeves gives a zizzy noise
rattle that disapears with a little pressure is more the ranti rattle plunger and spring
its often lost if the unknowing removes the stick and it all flies apart
the vibrations can collapse the spring
pete
Think that's the obvious thing to look at first. Will be added to my Winter "to do" list.
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8 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
Hmm, rattle or sizzle? I'm not sure. Its not a loud rattle, is that a sizzle🤔
I notice it if I am at a constant speed and if I hold the lever with my hand it goes away until I let go again.
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I have seen repair kits for noisy gear levers on the earlier boxes but not for single rails.
Any idea what I need to be replacing?
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So maybe best to choose an average, moderately warmish day to set up you carbs 🤔
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This thread has become far more interesting and educational than I expected 🙂
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2 hours ago, rlubikey said:
My thinking is that the original rubber buttons undergo shear stress / deformation and there's no slip involved. The relative movement of the spring leafs must be quite small under normal suspension conditions, but I have to admit I haven't checked! I think they're making pattern part buttons out of the same material as track rod boots, engine mounts, bonnet cones etc. hence why they're failing in no time.
Richard
Yes, that makes sense, but raises a further question.
Is a "slippy" replacement optimal or is the original rubber under a shear force a design feature which contributes beneficially to the performance of the spring 🤔
Not that it really matters as the new rubber ones all appear to be rubbish so the only issue is what the best replacement is.
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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:
the thermac idea has a vauum operated temperature sensed valve that operated a flap to mixed hot air from the exhaust with cold air from outside to give a modulated steady 70f
not easy to convert a triumph air box to add any gizmos inside
the dreaded waxstat was triumphs( and others) way of some degree of air temrperature control
Pete
Also, I presume that sort of setup wouldn't be able to compensate for ambient temperatures above 70f. So maybe the idea was to just limit the range of inlet temperatures that the carb had to cope with. Perhaps to allow a weaker mixture on the basis it would never have to deal with very cold inlet air 🤔
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2 minutes ago, NonMember said:
Yes, this difference in mixture with ambient air temperature was the reason they fitted waxstat jets to the later carbs. If only they'd worked reliably.
I was just thinking about that myself. I splashed the cash on the penny trick with mine lol
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This is all interesting stuff so many thanks for the responses.
One thought, it makes sense to me that it is an advantage for these to be "slippy" but I'm thinking the original rubber ones probably weren't. Doesn't rubber grip? Or does it depend on the compound?
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8 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
yes it does thats one thing from the 80s when they introduce a thermac valve in the air filter to always give a mix of hot/cold to arrive at the carbs at a steady 70F
so emmisions kept more stable than any old temperature intake
pete
Hmm, interesting. I will check it again next Summer when it is hot, if I remember to do it that far in the distant future 🤔
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Drove my 1500 Spitty about 130 miles on Tuesday and used the opportunity to coast onto a layby and take the plugs out after driving at speed for a good few miles. They were too white for my liking so I richened the mixture one flat on each carb and the performance was noticeably better. Checked again later and colour was improved but still lighter than I would like so a little richer still and further improvement to performance observed.
So, to my question. I was previously happy with the mixture but that was set in the summer when temperatures were hitting over 30C. On Tues it was about 14C so I was wondering, as cold air is denser, is that enough to change the mixture to a noticeable degree, or will it be due to something else?
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I had jobs to do today, but the sun was out, the sky was cloudless and blue and it was reasonably warm.
Who knows how many days like this before Winter so jobs abandoned and decided to take the Spitty to see my Mother, 65 miles away near Colchester.
In more mundane transport, this would be a blast down the M11 and across the A120 but this called for a drive across country through the glorious Suffolk/Essex borders, following the old trunk road route that would have taken lorries from the Midlands to the east coast ports before the current A14 & M11 were built. Great roads from Duxford through Haverhill, Halstead, Earls Colne. Must have been a nightmare in a truck but great fun in a Spitfire and not much traffic.
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14 hours ago, 68vitesse said:
I saw these ones offered from the same company that did the red ones. These appear to just be a disk whereas the red ones are more shaped to fit. Not sure if that matters or not.
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14 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Ahh, those are ones I saw previously but couldn't find again. Must depend what you search for.
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Has anyone had experience of any material other than polyurethane? I'm sure I read somewhere about teflon buttons, but can't find it now.
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23 minutes ago, 68vitesse said:
eBay? was a while back, but had to use a hydraulic bearing puller to get the wad punch through the sheet, found a hammer not good enough.
Regards
Paul.
Ok, thanks 👍
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27 minutes ago, 68vitesse said:
I just cut some from a sheet of polyurethane.
Regards
Paul
Where did you get something thick enough from?
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55 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
I was looking at these last night... not yet tried them, but was debating it! Definitely got to be better than some of the current sponge varieties on sale.
Yes, I saw those ones. If you fit them then let me know how you get on lol
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Fitted rubber buttons twice now and they just don't last.
Does anyone have any experience of the "enhanced" ones, what are best to fit and where from?
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Sticking pistons in my new calipers caused exactly this issue on my Spitfire.
I removed the pads one at a time, depressed the pedal to push the pistons further out then levered them back as far as they would go, repeating this several times until they moved freely.
After this the noise stopped. Some time later I had the same problem on the other side and did the same thing, which worked again.
Condensation in gauges ???
in Bodywork & Fittings
Posted
Can't imagine why anyone would want to dim them 😎
At least I can read them in the dark now I have fitted LEDs 👍