cliff.b
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Posts posted by cliff.b
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24 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
well certainly wont help
it would seem a good call as the noise is more evident at idle and you are loosing clutch travel all begins to tie in with a lost thrust
which is not overly common but does happen quite a lot
the suns out you may even hear the clunk if you press the clutch before you crank it up
Pete
Ok, I have got the dial gauge out, put it on the crank pulley and set it to zero.
If I lever the pulley forward or get the clutch pressed I am only seeing it move about 0.02mm (maybe 1 thou, I think)
However, if I push the pulley hard rearwards it moves about 0.13mm (about 5 thou) and then springs back to exactly where it was when the pressure is released.
So overall, the crank can move about 6 thou, although not in the way I was expecting.
Is this ok?
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47 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
if a thrust has worn or even dropped out that would contirbute to clutch travel as you are pushing the crank forwards
get a pry bar and give the pulley a good lever back and forwards should only be a few thou not 3mm
Pete
I am going to check all this stuff later. Would worn or missing thrust washer cause this sort of noise?
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2 minutes ago, NonMember said:
Yes, the same way that worn out thrust washers do. If there's play in the flywheel then it will push the clutch release bearing further back than normal. When you press the clutch, the flywheel takes up the first bit of movement, causing extra "lost motion" and the need to push the clutch further down before it operates.
Yes, that's sort of what I was thinking. But trying to get my head around what would actually be happening to cause it.
But the way you have explained it makes sense.
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I noticed towards the end of last year that I was needing to fully depress the clutch pedal to ensure I always got a clean gear change, particularly when changing down to 2nd.
Just thinking if a loose flywheel could contribute to this? Haven't worked out how at the moment 🤔
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9 minutes ago, KevinR said:
Try GENTLY pressing the clutch to see if it disappears as the clutch is pressed - if it does, then loose flywheel bolts should go to the top of the list of possible causes.
Will look at this again tomorrow.
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18 minutes ago, johny said:
Recommended to use thread lock as well...
Can you reuse the old bolts!
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Just wondering, do the flywheel bolts not have lock tabs?
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21 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
loose flywheel sounds a good plan ................just a pain to get to the bolts
would explain noise at idle when unsimpathetic vibrations are at their best and less as it revs
does operating the clutch play on the noise ???
Pete
I don't know as generally I haven't noticed it when driving and I gave been listening to it from out of the car with the bonnet up.
Easy enough to check though.
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45 minutes ago, dannyb said:
This sounds exactly I had on my spit. The fly wheel bolts had come loose. Take the starter motor out and see if there is any play.
Mine started on the new Queensferry bridge and finally destroyed the clutch, starter motor and flywheel at John O'Groats. A nice 15hr recovery back to Essex.
Hmm, although difficult to pinpoint the noise I was thinking the lower rear of the engine. Was suspecting big end 3 or 4 but guess what you experienced would fit the bill.
Was you noise only noticeable at tickover? And did any other symptoms develop?
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28 minutes ago, johny said:
even with no key if the nut is done up correctly pulley should be tight and wouldnt expect that kind of noise...
The nut is tight. I just tried to get it off to try running the engine without it but it doesn't want to shift, even with the starter motor trick.
Trying to move the pulley by hand, I can't detect any longitudinal movement but I can feel some slight rotational play.
But would that be an issue?
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28 minutes ago, johny said:
Whats the engine mileage and rebuild history?
The engine was in the car when I got it. The engine number starts DM and ends ESS which I believe means it was a factory exchange unit at some point.
It runs very well, there is zero smoke, uses very little oil.
Odometer says 81k miles but who knows if that is genuine and if the engine has been replaced, when that was done.
Judging by the way it generally runs and that everything has been painted, I was thinking it was rebuilt when the rest of the car was, but who knows.
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21 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
the crank nut may be tight but is there any float on the pulley if you give it some levering
keyways are known to fail
Pete
Just thinking, previously the but fell off and it was running without it making a similar sort of noise as the pulley was moving.
Could that have damaged the keyway and if so, what can be done? Hopefully not a new crank.
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4 minutes ago, johny said:
run the engine without fan belt for a short time to see if the noise changes?
Did that, no difference
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8 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
the crank nut may be tight but is there any float on the pulley if you give it some levering
keyways are known to fail
Pete
There didn't seem to be but will take another look. Removing fan belt made no difference.
I also changed the oil as I was going to do it soon anyway. Thought it had improved matters but went for a drive and when I got back I think it sounded the same as before.
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5 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:
Have you tried the long screwdriver stethoscope? It can help diagnose where the noise is coming from.
Doug
Not yet. I will try that.
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Didn't notice this noise last year but heard it when I put the car in the garage after the first run this year.
Oil pressure gauge showing what it always has done. Oil light off and pressure climbs within seconds of start up and no rattling or anything else. Sits at about 65psi when cold and falls when warmed.
When hot, the lowest the gauge shows is about 10psi per 1000RPM and 10 psi at idle. This hasn't changed.
Using Castrol Classic, can't see anything fouling anywhere, crank pulley fell off last year, and noise does sound similar, but checked and tight.
Doesn't sound like it's coming from the water pump. Probably does sound more like it's from bottom end of engine.
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Out in the Spitty to day.
Seems to be running well but on return I could here this on tickover. Can't here it when driving or when revs increased.
Thoughts please 🤔
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22 minutes ago, Chris A said:
That is exactly what the Mini said to you . .
Ha ha 😊
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10 minutes ago, PeteH said:
Amen to that!. I often say, what is it with "techies", that they don`t understand about "If it aint broke why fix it"?. I have a son, works for the security services and police, IT security. He`s as bad, "Dad, you need to change that telly?". Why? because it won`t do XYZ and it`s not H-D. Neither are my eyes so it don`t bother me!!. When it breaks, I`ll replace it. This from a Guy who lives on a Thames barge!!, and thinks 250 miles is a long way to come and see his mother!. At his age I regularly did a 100miles before my first call and breakfast.🙄
Pete
Don't get me started 😬
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46 minutes ago, PeteH said:
Thats poor?, I would expect that the ECU would have had a small rechargable battery, as many other devices do?, to keep the ECU "live" during outages.
My P107, has had flat batteries and never failed to fire up afterwards, even keeps the radio settings.
Pete
Maybe it does have a backup battery but no longer doing the job after nearly 15 years.
Or maybe Mini just don't want to lose any opportunity to get you to empty your wallet at the dealers. Based on previous experience that wouldn't surprise me. For example, brake warning lights that come on and will cause an MOT fail even though the brakes are fine. But the computer has decided that the pads will wear out before the next service.
I prefer an analogue car lol
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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:
the service schedule used be 10,000 miles for a plug change of the day
the ngk bpes in the 2000 fitted in 2015 and still going fine with a re gap every year
Pete
I'm not experiencing any problems 🤞 so I think I will just inspect and gap them this year.
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2 minutes ago, andybeau said:
"Eventually got the AA to come out and fixed it in 20 mins without even getting his tools out. when the battery died it had reset the ecu which then was no longer communicating with the engine. He had to use software on his computer to reconfigure it and it then started fine.
Guess that's progress 🙄"
Just another tool to add to the toolkit for modern cars
At least there was a reason I couldn't fix it.
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4 minutes ago, clive said:
Err, 20K? More?
I can't remember the last time I replaced plugs. In my spitfire with teh ford engine they were in the engine befor eI rebuikt it, and done 30K more with me. But they are about £40 a set I think.
In my TR7 engine in my toledo, again reused the plugs that did 25K, all still fine. I did get some Bosch plugs to fit, but never got around to it.
Just carry some spares.
Maybe I will save my money then. Nowhere near that sort of mileage yet.
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30 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
this came about because many makes stopped glazing the ceramic isolator and they dont clean up well with carb fueling
the general was ngk 5-6 bpes but they can noe suffer
W78 seem discontinued
the main snag is poor running on choke coats the ceramics with carbon ?? and the plug breas dwn early life
so get the fast idle set quite high and get it up to temp by brisk driving not tootling round on choke and most plugs of the correct range will work
i have never had a problem with the base NGK and my view is never use a plug with an R in the suffix our HT is not enough to work them at best
Pete
I haven't had any problems with the existing plugs, just thought it might be time to change them and seem to remember some claiming the Bosch plugs performed better than the traditional type.
Not even sure I need to replace the old ones yet. How long do they usually last in our cars if all set up ok?
Worrying noise
in Engine
Posted
I thought 6 thou was within spec. How much are you expecting it to be?