cliff.b
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Posts posted by cliff.b
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Sprayed the bumper and it has gone on ok, but definitely not chrome. It's ok but not sure I like it and I am thinking of going back to black 🤔
Maybe will leave it a few days to see if it grows on me.
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55 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
it easy to make runs from past use of this type of finish little and often rules to build up to a shine
Pete
First test piece, three light coats on top of the primer I used on the bumper. No runs. Definitely not a high chrome finish but more like stainless steel steel at the moment. Tomorrow I will see if anything makes it shinier. More coats, T cut, polish, lacquer?
Also, the instructions suggest an optional black gloss coat after the primer which I haven't tried yet. Not sure what difference that will make. I need some more test pieces to experiment on. I'm thinking empty beer cans might be ideal 🤔
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Ordered some of this off eBay. I will be surprised it it looks like the csp does but will be interested to find out.
Intend to do a bit of test spraying when it arrives before moving on to the bumper. Make sure it is ok with the primer I have used etc.
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Decided I will repaint. Will try the "fake chrome" effect spray first to see what it looks like, but if I'm not happy with it then back to black.
But both need primer so three coats of "etch" primer applied today from a can and looks fairly good, I think 🤔
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14 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
anyone used the chrome wrap type of repairs or even some powder coat ???
they seem to cover all odd shapes with the stuff but is it a diy possiblity ??
but a rattle can is so much cheaper for a cosmetic uplift
Pete
If I do decide to spray it, does standard etch primer adhere to chrome or is there something else required?
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4 minutes ago, Chris A said:
It's always the last bit or the last bolt/screw that causes grief.
Stick some aluminium foil over it, nobody will notice 🙄
Hmm, that's tempting, actually lol
The other consideration though is that the rear one is still black so I will feel compelled to strip that as well and that might be a "basket case" 😱
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As the paint was coming off in several places I decided it probably hadn't keyed to the chrome and have spent the last 3 hours scraping it off, carefully, with a Stanley blade.
All looking pretty good but I just knew that I would find an issue with the very last bit I uncovered
Filler 😒
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5 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
just a rattle can aerosol satin silver/chrome paint or similar nothing special needs a primer or it wont stick
turned poor into acceptable very cheaply think its lasted around 5 years so far ive not seen the car this year to see if im right
Pete
Ok, thanks
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15 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
we have a local spitty bumpers are sprayed with satin chrome and they look and have lasted well
Pete
What is this stuff Pete? Don't think I have seen it.
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On 23/03/2023 at 02:48, ed.h said:
Good chrome is fairly impervious to most things except strong acids, so a paint stripper should be OK. Here in the US, we can't easily get proper methylene chloride strippers any more, and have to make do with wimpier citrus-based strippers.
Here's an idea--try DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid.
[As always with any experiment--try in an inconspicuous place first]
Ed
Hmm, a good idea but didn't appear to be any more effective than domestic paint stripper.
There was no noticeable effect on the paint surface whatsoever. I'm thinking there must be some sort of lacquer on top.
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6 hours ago, ed.h said:
Good chrome is fairly impervious to most things except strong acids, so a paint stripper should be OK. Here in the US, we can't easily get proper methylene chloride strippers any more, and have to make do with wimpier citrus-based strippers.
Here's an idea--try DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid.
[As always with any experiment--try in an inconspicuous place first]
Ed
That's an idea 👍
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My bumpers have been painted black but it is coming off in various places and what I can see looks to be on good condition. I want to take it all off to see if they are good enough to use unpainted and looking for suggestions as to what to use to strip it all? Obviously, it needs to be chrome friendly
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8 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:
That's no way to speak off your mother!
Doug
Don't think I could get my Mother in the Spitfire. But the annoying squeak that gets louder the faster I go could well be my Wife
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Back home after taking the quicker route up the M11 as later than expected. Exactly 100 miles covered, no problems other than another annoying squeak from somewhere 🤬. Mother fed and mission accomplished.
She's not doing too bad for 88. I suspect it's all the cake etc. that she eats 🤔
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Just driven 50 miles across country via Grantchester & Saffron Walden to the beautiful village of Finchingfield, Essex for lunch with my Mum.
Mainly Sunny but not at the moment. Hopefully will be for the drive back later.
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55 minutes ago, johny said:
I think the biggest brake improvement you could do is fitting the 2L front brakes. Then if you want to match them, as Pete said, change the rear backplates, shoes and drums to the earlier 2L type which, although slightly smaller, would avoid the problematic auto adjusters and scarce slave cylinders.
Of course after all that the master cylinder might need upgrading as the pedal travel could be excessive....
Yes, a potential can of worms 🙄
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35 minutes ago, johny said:
yes theyre 7/8" instead of the usual 3/4" while the shoes are 1.5" wide rather than 1.25". However if youre going to swop the backplates and not use the bigger brakes why not just get standard 1500 Spitfire drive shafts which are a lot easier to find?
If I get these the main attraction would be the better brakes which I was thinking might balance Mintex pads at the front. Although to be honest, I am probably trying to give myself an excuse to buy them lol.
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14 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
why not just swap the back plates but make sure you keep NS and OS as taken off shafts do form a torsional memory and dont like being unwound they fracture
Pete
Yes, that's a possibility, although I would need to borrow a hub puller again to do that, I think.
Anyway, I haven't got them, yet.
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1 hour ago, johny said:
Yes, the bigger self adjusting slave cylinders are quite sought after as also used on other makes of cars of the period...
Ok, thanks. Do you know the diameter of these later cylinders?
Would it be 7/8"
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3 minutes ago, johny said:
Yes the diff couplings are the same as are the shaft lengths. However believe the bigger self adjusting slaves are very difficult to find new so if damaged beyond repairing with an overhaul kit there could be a problem because with any other slave I dont know how you can adjust the shoes....
So even if I didn't fit them, the parts, if ok, may be of use to others?
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7 minutes ago, johny said:
The rear brakes of the sixes were always bigger in diameter than the Spitfire/Herald variant and I believe that was the same right through production of all models with the GT6 self adjusting type being wider as well. Theres nothing preventing swops between cars but you risk having a braking mismatch...
Ok. As far as you know, are the other parts of the driveshaft assy the same.
Just I have a possibility of getting my hands on a pair at a very reasonable price.
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Just wondering if complete late GT6 (swing spring) drive shafts, trunnion, hub, brake assemblies would fit a 1500 Spitfire?
I believe the brakes are self adjusting but are they uprated in any other way compared to the Spit rear brakes?
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A bottle of this arrived today, ordered from ebay. It says not to use it on steering wheel or pedals so I must remember that, especially as my steering wheel is wood rimmed
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4 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
How do you stop dogs licking them at shows?
Ahh,I presumed you were talking about dog shows. I can see it might be a problem but wasn't sure it was relevant to this issue 🤔
Paint Remover
in Bodywork & Fittings
Posted
I tried a couple of clear coats and they just destroyed the finish, leaving it looking dull.