Jon J 1250

The white used on the wheels in 1965 is a very white white, not particularly creamy, although over 50-60years, it is likely any original paint will have yellowed a bit. Note also the white wheels were often black or dark brown on the back, Triumph didn't always bother to paint the inner faces white, so they stayed in the base colour as supplied by Dunlop or Sankey. Concerning tyres, if going crossply to keep the original overall diameter, the only option it Camac 5.20 x 13 for the 3.5in rims and 5.60 x 13 for 4.5" rims. They seem fairly well regarded. I am not sure about 13" budget tyres, but the right shape and profile is needed. Low profile will spoil the ride and make the speedo read incorrectly, plus looks weird IMHO. Look for an 80 profile. Many modern tyres have a flat tread with a square shoulder, which won't be good for the handling with swing axles, they need to be rounded to cope with the varying camber. Blockley Tyres make 145/80/13's classic tyres for a not unreasonable £75ea, or if you have a bigger budget go for classic 145/13 Pirelli Cinturato's £100ea or 155/13 Dunlop SP Sport Aquajet £145ea. JJ

Oof, I feel for you here, Looks a proper headache. Have the front wings been replaced, it's difficult to see how they ever aligned with the profile of the doors, but the old photos showing it fitting well would seem to prove otherwise. Very strange. I think i've decided to squirt some extra wax in to my 12/50's chassis now, and never take it out in the wet. determined never to have to take it apart and go through this.

I note the brackets in the mk1 car above and mine are body colour, were the brackets factory fitted items, even when seatbelts were not required?

A not very clear picture of mine if it helps. Can do a better one at weekend if needed. If you're able to make it out, it is a thick triangular plate with and upturned flange along the forward edge. A U-bolt carrying the belts and buckles is bolted to the flange. The whole assembly is bolted down through the two holes, to another thick plate under the floor. This is a mid 1965 built car, later cars we're done differently, with eyebolts in the chassis.

Just recently protected the underside of the 12/50 i'm doing a rolling restoration on with Lanoguard. It is a clear non toxic lanolin basted product, which people speak highly of. Went on really cleanly minimal mess and good coating everywhere. The darker patches are where I sprayed it on a bit too thick or where i brushed the grease supplied in the kit on to vulnerable places like panel seams. Some photos below, hope it helps. The last photo it the finish a week later. Jon (PS. the car was originally wedgewood blue (later repainted cherry red), hence the colour underneath

That's the right way to go if you have replacement side rails. Original side rails have pre-drilled holes with spire clips or caged nuts in don't they? My tabs have long since broken off, but you can see the holes for the clips where they used to attach. JJ

Here's an end on shot of my NOS floorpan to show how the two parts fit together. Hope it helps, let me know if you need any other details like how the B Post area is supposed to look. JJ

I have, the board it there, but conversations aren't archived sadly.

Hi, Apologies if this has been asked many time before (i did look), but is the previous MessageBoard (the one below) still available to browse, it was a great source of info? If not, is it even possible that it could be made available? Regards Jon

Front crossmember is fine yes, the rear crossmember is also plenty strong enough. just need to careful as is angled at the bottom so not ideal for a stand from a safety point of view imho. JJ

It's never going to happen but I would be great if Newtons were able to mould a set of 1200 carpets in the original grey loop pile material, you can get carpets in that material for the TR4, but no idea if it is suitable for moulding, I would guess not. Still we we've got to consider ourselves extremely fortunate that proper fitting moulded carpets exist at all. JJ

Being mindful of disappearing into a tangential conversation, 😆, but yes agree with you on working steam engines, they would have lost their asbestos lagging many years ago during boiler inspections, but in museums such as NRM and some others, where they are static exhibits, many of the loco's were last overhauled or cosmetically restored in the 1950's and 60's (some much earlier) before being handed over to the museum collection. I think it is unlikely those have been stripped of their asbestos as it would be hugely expensive and they'd have to be repainted. I'd be interested to know.

They do, I noticed when visiting each of those ships, they have various signs advising beware asbestos. I'm guessing they are inspected very regularly to ensure no deterioration. I would imagine many older locomotives in the NRM still have asbestos lagging too as they were often last worked on to be turned into museum exhibits many years ago in the days of steam. Jon

Oops sorry, yes I read your original post at work in too much of a hurry. I hope you manage to track down some originals!

Hi Colin, Not sure if you are aware, but historical FIA forms are available on line, for example: https://historicdb.fia.com/sites/default/files/car_attachment/1601070001/homologation_form_number_5093_group_1.pdf Regards JJ

and so the hard work begins. After a couple of days of it, don’t think I can stand working under the car in a full face mask trying to brush and grind this all down to bright metal…let’s see how it goes I’ll do my best with it, scraping and scotch wheeling the loose off, then using the best surface treatments, coatings and waxes money can buy! (taking on board the generous advice given above) 😁👍

I wonder how they came to have only the jets and cold start linkages. Thanks for thinking of me here, fortunately mine are complete in this respect, but expect fairly unusual to see these for sale, as I think they are Triumph parts probably unique to the TC Heralds. Jon

It is indeed, or as close as £80 would have got you to Cherry red in 1979. Personally I can't wait until it is a shiny light blue again to match the interior! If you need a car to put into your Courier column on a slow news day, give me a shout. Regards Jon

Yes, although the red is part of the car's history, it is one of those £80 resprays from the late 70's...its not looking its best now. 😆

Hi Pete, It ran for the first time in 16 years last August (video attached), since then I have spent time, rebuilding the brakes, doing a full fluids change, re-grease and service, and improving things that need attention when I laid it up back in 2005, like stripping an re-greasing the wiper motor/rack, replacing the heater hoses, and cleaning repainting all of the engine ancillaries and engine bay. I should be able to get it to the SEM in Leatherhead this year, but it will be going in for some accident repair (from before my 27 years of ownership) and a respray (it should be Wedgewood blue) as soon I find somebody I can entrust it with. Not sure when the twin Carbs are going on though, it's just something I am doing at leisure. Regards Jon IMG_4952.mp4

You did suggest BSF thanks, spot on, I just needed to be 100% sure, I am now, thanks for advice. JJ

Thanks for your advice. I did a bit of detective work, took a look in my original Herald 1200 parts manual and found at the back an exploded diagram of the Triumph spec SU H1 carb. In the diagram the retaining nut that goes with the spindle (retaining the throttle stop and flex link) is diagram number AU49, which in the parts list has the number SP22C, not a regular Stanpart number. I recall that Canley Classics very usefully have published the Stanpart Hardware Catalogue featuring lists of Stanpart nuts, bolts and fixings etc. and luckily found an SP22C in there, describing precisely all the nut dimensions, and importantly it has a 1/4" BSF thread. Find the lists here: Spare Parts : Canley Classics I now have a 1/4" BSF die on order and hopefully this post will be useful for future reference for anybody replacing Triumph SU H1 spindles. (Triumph used many of their own linkage parts on these carbs, BMC instead used a locating pin rather than a thread, hence why this info is tricky to find) Regards JJ

Hi, I have started work on these carbs, making progress, but does anybody know what the thread on the spindle for the Triumph H1 carbs is, I am assuming is it a Whitworth thread? The new spindle in the rebuild kit is a generic one and needs to be cut to size and have a thread cut on it, need to get this right. Kind Regards Jon

Lol! Whoopsie! 😆 I'll rewrite that!! Do you THINK it is possible to close up the bonnet gap a little bit?... I reckon so Lesson leaned, I am sure Josef understood me, but never type stuff whilst you have one eye on it and one eye on your day job!... JJ

What a fantastic looking car, love the look of the Spitfire Mk4 wheels on a 13/60 convertible, especially a Valencia blue one! Do you stink its possible to close up the bonnet gap a little bit, I reckon so. JJ