thescrapman
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Posts posted by thescrapman
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Are you asking if there are brackets attached to rear seat back that move the narrow board up as the rear seat is put back vertical?
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They also have a tag with a popper to attach to top of B-post.
I really can not work out what you have done with your cappings.
😞
p.s.the door glass goes outside the hood, seems wrong, but it does.
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Looks like your hood bag is an aftermarket one. Orginals have pockets for the frame to tuck inside, reduces the damage to the back of the seat.
The originals also have elasticated straps that hood onto the frame to hold the hood up away from the rear shelf. I have left 1 dangling top show.
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Only the very early Mk3 Spitfires had the Vitesse style hood catches, they were too dangerous in an accident even for Triumph I suspect. They changed to the Handles after a few thousand cars I think.
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The hood frame digs a hole in the back of the seats on a Mk3, seems to be a normal thing. I screwed a metal plate on the back of my seats.
You do seem to have your hood folded wrong mind, though hard to be sure from the pictures. Did you lay it out on the rear deck whilst stowing it?
having to lift the b-post caps I have never seen, just need to drop the frame down a bit? Or hood is wrong.
Or is it a Mk4 hood frame on a Mk3?
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On 21/05/2023 at 09:28, DanMi said:
FD is Vitesse 2 litre MK1 which makes sense with the 6 holes 3.89 ratio http://www.wolfitt.com/numbers_and_ratios.htm
FD is Mk3 Spitfire.
🙂
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On spitfires, rear radius arms always mount in same place, arms and brackets change for longer shafts.
inner holes are for rotoflex on GT6, just panels are common.
You will want a 3.63 with a 1500, 3.89 is too low, I have one in my Spitfire.
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A previous owner of that car spent a lot of time on this or another popular (at the time) Triumph forum, can’t remember which.
Both have crashed and burnt since then so can’t work out who it was.
Think the car has spent time at Anglian Triumph recently.
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Differences? Sump.
Nothing else I can think of.
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Good news.
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Shame you are not closer to Essex, I have a pile in the garage.
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Did you fit a brand new synchro cone, or a good secondhand one?
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You are using a device that is no longer compatible with the latest update to the forum software.
I had to go and get my phone to reply to this as I have same issue. My iPad was previously owned by Noah.
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20 hours ago, Kevin Atkins said:
Hi Pete,
I got long driveshafts from Rimmers
Didn't you say you had a Mk3 earlier?
Spitfire or GT6?
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There is also a hanger on the gearbox to support front part of exhaust.
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Do you have a pair of seats? Or 2 of the same side?
Are they right way round?
BTDT.
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He's been very positive about one of the ladies in the office as well recently.
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12 hours ago, RichTeaBiscuit said:
All historic vehicles are ULEZ exempt regardless of fuel type.
Not classic commercial vehicles sadly.
Not sure if you can get them reclassified
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I suspect only residue of it is a log book in a filing cabinet.
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I would hazard a guess that is now a "filing cabinet" car.
No log book change I that time seems to confirm.
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Your car is about change point between A type and J type.
find whatever is a good price.
you need a relay and loom for an A type
you need spacers for the cross member and longer studs for a J type
get a saloon box, TR ones are more expensive anyway.
different back plate I think.
Saloon flywheels are great big heavy things. Perhaps get a few kg shaved off.
OD gear sticks are not cheap usually, so perhaps find another solution.
Very early (63/64) gearboxes may be different, but don’t think so.
Long back and Short back refers to the crank.
Mk1 2000 and MK1 PI are long back, rest are short back. Get the right flywheel. You need a short back one.
make sure you fit a Mk2 type release bearing carrier and slippers, what ever gearbox you get.
fit a new cross shaft pin, and cross drill it as well if you can. Also drill hole in bottom of cross shaft pin hole in fork, so you can get snapped pin out when it breaks again.
finally, Lockheed clutch masters are expensive, and use a series 3 Land Rover slave. Much cheaper.
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TR4 gearbox will have a big input shaft, much larger than a saloon. Saloon uses same clutch as standard Vitesse , so 10 spline.
TR box clutch will be very heavy as well in use.
Sell the TR box and fit a saloon box. Needs to be an A type overdrive one.
And you get a lighter clutch as an added bonus.
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Mine always goes back in afterwards, usually via a cloth to filter out the lumps. Or an old tea strainer if I can find it.
Never dreamt to try recycling it.
The local dump used to love old engine oil as they used it to heated their hut.
That one is one now closed and it has become very difficult to dispose or recycle anything. Latest hair-brained idea is appointments to visit.
Expecting an increase in fly-tipping as no-one will be bothered to book a slot a month or so ahead.
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You need to fit the screen frame and put glass in the door, to make sure you have the gaps right higher up.
Gearbox overhaul
in Gearbox & Overdrive
Posted
ISTR you have a 13/60.
3-synchro gearboxes are very easy to get hold of cheaply as no-one wants them, and they don’t yield many useful parts for other boxes.
As swapping a box in a Herald is easy, I would be tempted to try a spare one or 2 rather than fork out on a rebuild.
Price wise it is about 6 or 7 old gearboxes per rebuild.