thescrapman
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Posts posted by thescrapman
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On 16/06/2022 at 17:29, Wagger said:
I sanded to the bare wood. Mine were not veneered. Some may be, so do not do that if they are.
I thought they were all veneered at some point in their life?
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Make sure the breather pin on the diff is free to "juggle" if it is leaking from all seals
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On 07/06/2022 at 04:52, Peter Truman said:
Scrapman during the 3 rail conversions did you use the 3 rail reverse distance piece (137687) or single rail reverse distance piece (22G1435).
I used the single rail 22G1435 and had to do serious surgery on the reverse Operating Lever 106254, cutting it belting it forward and weld it up shifting the top locating pin for the gear selectors in the lever more than 1/4in in forward!
I've never been happy with this mod and would love to know what others have done in fitting the single rail internals innto a 3 rail gearbox case, I did use a GT6 four syncro gearbox case!
Hoping you can remember which reverse distance piece you used in the conversions and what if any alteration you had to make to the reverse operating lever.
I didn't do the swapping, Clive's friend Pete helped me out.
Quite happy to pop the top off one if you want me to check anything
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Pete
dont forget that the header capping is the same as a Mk1/2 Spitfire, and they are likely to be cheaper as there will be no TR tax.
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Just spotted your other thread about the water mark.
definitely micro blistering, water is getting under the paint, then popping the paint up in little blisters.
Has been caused by the cover holding moisture over faulty paint.
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5 hours ago, wimpus said:
Wim, I dismantled a couple of single rail 1850 boxes to turn into 3-rail GT6 ones, one of which allegedly a factory recon one ( had been sat with no OD and lid off for many years) , other one was a Fitchetts rebuild from 20-odd years ago, 3rd was a box full of shrapnel and stripped layshaft.
There ought to be some good selector bits left over.
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Your bonnet appears to,be covered in micro blisters.
So it may not have been orange peel to start with, but that.
If it had been orange peel, it would have flatted out.
To sort properly you will need to bare metal it I suspect.
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On 31/05/2022 at 12:17, KevinR said:
There are NOS bodyshells for other Triumphs out there, you just need to know where to look
I am sure I saw NOS Mk3 GT6 shell a few years ago.
Fitchetts used to have a few TR7 shells, they must have all gone by now I would have thought
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Pete, I Use X-Spurt tyres in Cemetary Rd (I think it is), always found them able to sort anything.
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30 minutes ago, Mathew said:
Thus you have ten on the shelf! I don't know how you have room to store everything! But at least you do saving them from the scrapman. Then the logic for your handle.
Nothing to do with cars!
The house used to be full of old computers, and my colleagues would always say I was "worse than a bloody scrap man"
And yes, I do have 10 on the shelf, all unknown quantities.
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15 hours ago, clive said:
I have a chap in sussex, but I am certain he doesn't carry 3 synchro spare parts. If it were a single rail box, he would be ideal.
I have about 10 3-synchro Herald boxes on the shelf if Pete is ever short.
Back to original request, 3-synchro boxes can still be picked up really cheaply secondhand, supply far outstrips demand.
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22 hours ago, Bfg said:
Getting new brake shoes for this car is not a problem, it's just a question of which ones to get. Many appear to be unbranded and others are clones by companies who have bought the brand names of the better companies of the past era, and who use the same brake lining material on different steel shoe plates ..irrespective of vehicle weight, weight bias, front or rear wheel drive, or intended use.
Unlike brake pads for the front discs - there seems to be very little interest in them, and almost no recommendations. It seems as if rear brake shoes are something which many owners find barely ever wear out (..nor make much difference) ..which must surely be because they are actually too hard for infrequent (cold) use.? As long as they pass an MoT handbrake test, then that'll do. There cannot be a more ignored component on a car.
But my take is ; even if the rear brakes only contribute to 40% of overall straight line braking, then I'd much rather have a true 40% rather than 20%.
After some web browsing it would appear that Mintex M20 liner is used for TR4 - TR6 fast road use and racing. As Mintex do not make shoes to fit, independent companies are relining existing shoes with this material c.£130 - £145 set.! That may be the way to go, for me to buy the friction material for 9" dia x 1-3/4" shoes and rivet them on myself.
Pete
That was what I was trying to get at, plenty of shoes, all modern material of unknown quality.
should be easy to reline yourself a set.
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19 hours ago, Bfg said:
Cheers, but what about the rear - shoes ? I haven't any old stock and don't know what brand or part-number to look out for. Is there any difference between brake shoes for live-axle and IRS cars.? Aside from the early TR's which had larger drums, I believe the Tr4 and TR4A brakes are the same size ..but that doesn't mean what's best for one is also best in the other, one brake might generally be cooler than the other, for example. And I don't know if the brake master cylinder &/or calipers, or bias / balance ratios changed over the years ?
Pete
You could get a set of old shoes re-lined with a suitable material?
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Pete, if you are finding the brakes "uninspiring" it might be modern brake pads.
I have had a few Triumphs like that now, a couple the brakes just scared me.
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The seal goes into the neck, the lid has a sprung metal cap in it that pushes down on rubber seal.
Think it is typen16. Might be a 2000 size Lockheed one,
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A brake calipers seal does an excellent job in a Mk3 filler cap.
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Set of Stilsons and a new sump plug, never failed, how ever tight the previous gorilla tightened it up.
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Marina or Ital I think I was told.
they are used on rear of dolomites to eliminate the appearance of the wheels being right under the arches.
My brothers Dolly had them. Looked much better.
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Just make sure the internal,oilway has not been blocked off, occasionally a proper job was actually done
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14 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Isn't this our old friend the incredibly expensive 13/60?
https://www.carandclassic.com/auctions/1968-triumph-herald-1360-convertible-8bz9l8
One has vents in the bonnet, and one has a roof.
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Just found the info.
8" long for 3.3" head
8.125" for 3.4" head
8 5/16 for tallest head. (3.475")
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There are different length push rods, but it may not help you,
2.5 S ones are longer, if you fit Vitesse ones to a 2.5 you end up with 150 thou gaps even at maximum adjustment, found that out when a mate asked me to look at his incredibly asthmatic Saloon. So 2.5 ones won't help.
Mk1 2000 ones may be slightly shorter than Mk2 2000 but are possibly a different size.
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On 02/05/2022 at 19:17, Badwolf said:
When I got my Spitfire it was twelve years old. Ziebart rustproofing sticker on the windscreen. Hardly a panel without rust, some more rust than metal. What exactly was the Ziebart process, was it designed to hold back the rust or speed it up? Having shown her the photos of the original state of the car, Lady BW can't believe the amount of rust damage on a twelve year old vehicle, even a soft top. Maybe it was just a sticker that was supposed to frighten to rust away, like those security signs, you know the ones 'Klingon security guard these premises'!
30 years ago when I used o trawl scrapyards you always avoided the cars with Ziebart stickers as they'd would be the most rotten
I assume they would block the drain channels with the wax.
EXD 555J Vitesse Conv. Mk 2
in My car's history
Posted
Got a vague feeling I may know where it is now, will look tonight.