thescrapman
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Posts posted by thescrapman
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Bring back foot dipswitches, that’s what I say.
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2 hours ago, Nigel Clark said:
The 2500TC engine has a very tame cam profile, probably the main reason it is reluctant to rev. Also very low compression ratio.
The 2500 engine I built for my GT6 has a better cam from Chris Witor, head skimmed for 9.5:1 CR. The engine has been balanced and fitted with a GT6 flywheel, about half the weight of the original saloon item.
The engine revs freely to 5,500rpm, I haven't been brave enough to take it further. It still has all the torque expected of the long stroke 2.5. And it's smooth, as hoped for with a balanced engine.
The 2.5 litre engine in my CP series TR6 is also smooth and revvy, suspect a PO had it balanced.
Nigel
My TR6 engine revs well over 6k, too easily in fact. I know it was fully balanced when built in the 80’s. Sounds good at full chat.
when I eventually do untold damage to my 2000 engine, which I will, as with well over 100k it will complain at regularly going to 6k, I am tempted to go maximum bore but keep the stroke, think you can get to 2.3
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12 hours ago, clive said:
Re number plates.
Any new car sold from teh late 60's on would have had yellow and white plates, nobody would have used the old fashioned silver on black.
I like this ype, just looks right
However, if you want pressed ali ones, avoid the cheaper type that look just that. Tipper plates are very good, but not budget friendly. (My dolly has tipper plates from 1980 when the car was made, lovely patina)
My 69 2000 had (and still has the original dealer fitted) black and white plates.
No idea why it didn’t get the new tangled reflective ones.
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29 minutes ago, Badwolf said:
Roger - Better book Colin in for a few days during his round Britain tour. Don't think he will manage a bonnet as hand luggage though.
I think I need to book him in so he can pretend to be trawling the autojumble at Stafford and I can offload large amounts of my pre-enjoyed parts to him. No Vitesse bonnets, but a pretty rough Spitfire one available.
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On 19/07/2022 at 11:48, Gary Flinn said:
I remember back in the mid 1980's purchasing a complete Herald 1200 Convertible off a guy in North London to convert my Vitesse saloon to a convertible, I think his name was Dave Jones.
He had a N.O.S Vitesse Bonnet stashed away in his Shed, no Idea if he's still around or what happened to it?
Gary
There were 2 Dave Jones into Triumphs in North London in the 80’s that I can think of.
Both still about and still got Triumph connections.
I think the bonnet mentioned may still exist, though now in someone else’s garage in North London
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On 09/07/2022 at 15:44, Mathew said:
A message from pete....
To convey apologies for my absence, to explain that I can no longer post or reply, that a kindly admin is looking into it for me ...and that the Surrey-top lid I'm making easily released from the flash mould, and since then I've added the front and rear cap rails to it and fitted the front (TR6 ) latches.
Pete would like to post but due to technical issues that the tec guys at admin are trying to sort out he is unable too at the moment.
Well we know what the technical issues are, as they have also knocked out my iPad.
Looks like Invision have removed some access to old (very) browsers and / or operating systems.
I have temporarily moved to a slightly newer iPad, and we need to find a way to move Pete on from his abacus now.
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Got a vague feeling I may know where it is now, will look tonight.
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On 16/06/2022 at 17:29, Wagger said:
I sanded to the bare wood. Mine were not veneered. Some may be, so do not do that if they are.
I thought they were all veneered at some point in their life?
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Make sure the breather pin on the diff is free to "juggle" if it is leaking from all seals
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On 07/06/2022 at 04:52, Peter Truman said:
Scrapman during the 3 rail conversions did you use the 3 rail reverse distance piece (137687) or single rail reverse distance piece (22G1435).
I used the single rail 22G1435 and had to do serious surgery on the reverse Operating Lever 106254, cutting it belting it forward and weld it up shifting the top locating pin for the gear selectors in the lever more than 1/4in in forward!
I've never been happy with this mod and would love to know what others have done in fitting the single rail internals innto a 3 rail gearbox case, I did use a GT6 four syncro gearbox case!
Hoping you can remember which reverse distance piece you used in the conversions and what if any alteration you had to make to the reverse operating lever.
I didn't do the swapping, Clive's friend Pete helped me out.
Quite happy to pop the top off one if you want me to check anything
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Pete
dont forget that the header capping is the same as a Mk1/2 Spitfire, and they are likely to be cheaper as there will be no TR tax.
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Just spotted your other thread about the water mark.
definitely micro blistering, water is getting under the paint, then popping the paint up in little blisters.
Has been caused by the cover holding moisture over faulty paint.
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5 hours ago, wimpus said:
More strange wear on the selector shaft...
Do know where they sell NOS items.
Wim, I dismantled a couple of single rail 1850 boxes to turn into 3-rail GT6 ones, one of which allegedly a factory recon one ( had been sat with no OD and lid off for many years) , other one was a Fitchetts rebuild from 20-odd years ago, 3rd was a box full of shrapnel and stripped layshaft.
There ought to be some good selector bits left over.
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Your bonnet appears to,be covered in micro blisters.
So it may not have been orange peel to start with, but that.
If it had been orange peel, it would have flatted out.
To sort properly you will need to bare metal it I suspect.
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On 31/05/2022 at 12:17, KevinR said:
There are NOS bodyshells for other Triumphs out there, you just need to know where to look
I am sure I saw NOS Mk3 GT6 shell a few years ago.
Fitchetts used to have a few TR7 shells, they must have all gone by now I would have thought
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Pete, I Use X-Spurt tyres in Cemetary Rd (I think it is), always found them able to sort anything.
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30 minutes ago, Mathew said:
Thus you have ten on the shelf! I don't know how you have room to store everything! But at least you do saving them from the scrapman. Then the logic for your handle.
Nothing to do with cars!
The house used to be full of old computers, and my colleagues would always say I was "worse than a bloody scrap man"
And yes, I do have 10 on the shelf, all unknown quantities.
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15 hours ago, clive said:
I have a chap in sussex, but I am certain he doesn't carry 3 synchro spare parts. If it were a single rail box, he would be ideal.
I have about 10 3-synchro Herald boxes on the shelf if Pete is ever short.
Back to original request, 3-synchro boxes can still be picked up really cheaply secondhand, supply far outstrips demand.
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22 hours ago, Bfg said:
Getting new brake shoes for this car is not a problem, it's just a question of which ones to get. Many appear to be unbranded and others are clones by companies who have bought the brand names of the better companies of the past era, and who use the same brake lining material on different steel shoe plates ..irrespective of vehicle weight, weight bias, front or rear wheel drive, or intended use.
Unlike brake pads for the front discs - there seems to be very little interest in them, and almost no recommendations. It seems as if rear brake shoes are something which many owners find barely ever wear out (..nor make much difference) ..which must surely be because they are actually too hard for infrequent (cold) use.? As long as they pass an MoT handbrake test, then that'll do. There cannot be a more ignored component on a car.
But my take is ; even if the rear brakes only contribute to 40% of overall straight line braking, then I'd much rather have a true 40% rather than 20%.
After some web browsing it would appear that Mintex M20 liner is used for TR4 - TR6 fast road use and racing. As Mintex do not make shoes to fit, independent companies are relining existing shoes with this material c.£130 - £145 set.! That may be the way to go, for me to buy the friction material for 9" dia x 1-3/4" shoes and rivet them on myself.
Pete
That was what I was trying to get at, plenty of shoes, all modern material of unknown quality.
should be easy to reline yourself a set.
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19 hours ago, Bfg said:
Cheers, but what about the rear - shoes ? I haven't any old stock and don't know what brand or part-number to look out for. Is there any difference between brake shoes for live-axle and IRS cars.? Aside from the early TR's which had larger drums, I believe the Tr4 and TR4A brakes are the same size ..but that doesn't mean what's best for one is also best in the other, one brake might generally be cooler than the other, for example. And I don't know if the brake master cylinder &/or calipers, or bias / balance ratios changed over the years ?
Pete
You could get a set of old shoes re-lined with a suitable material?
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Pete, if you are finding the brakes "uninspiring" it might be modern brake pads.
I have had a few Triumphs like that now, a couple the brakes just scared me.
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The seal goes into the neck, the lid has a sprung metal cap in it that pushes down on rubber seal.
Think it is typen16. Might be a 2000 size Lockheed one,
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A brake calipers seal does an excellent job in a Mk3 filler cap.
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Set of Stilsons and a new sump plug, never failed, how ever tight the previous gorilla tightened it up.
NOS Vitesse Bonnet
in Bodywork & Fittings
Posted
Well I know who purchased the bonnet, it is heading to west LOndon, to revive what was a really nice Vitesse that has been off the road for 25+ years, and has rampant rot in the side seams. It is also getting a NOS chassis under it.
and the Dave Jones who had the NOS bonnet in the 80’s is the other one I know of, and the bonnet went on his Vitesse, which he still owns.