thescrapman
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Posts posted by thescrapman
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On 05/05/2020 at 21:24, Bordfunker said:
Colin seeing as you are on a streak, can you check your stash for Lord Lucan?
Ta
Karl
I have a colleague who is very elusive. Having managed to get an answer one day I accused him of being like Lord Lucan.
Who's he was the reply? Suffice to say he is half my age. 😞
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I was told the clamp always had to be up against the bottom of the tube and the plastic washer was to stop the clamp rubbing against the alloy cap on end,
That completely eliminates any in and out movement which may affect horn operation.
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The washer may be the ne that goes between the slide clamp and the bottom of te column.
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10 hours ago, Adrian Saunders said:
d. Is this year a Classic Le Mans year? Do the TSSC have Tertre Rouge again?
It was, but isn't now, postponed by a year, and Tesco, Tertre Rouge again
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One useful thing with the A127 is that there are 2 outputs on the back, both the spade and the threaded stud are common inside, so run additional wire off the stud to the battery.
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Last of the Vitesse and possibly also 13/60 Herald had a steering lock and ignition switch
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It says you are in Sri Lanka, is that right?
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I was going to suggest banging them with a hammer whilst applying and removing the power.
As for new ones, look for the Nautilus ones
also found this
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One that hangs down is Mk3 GT6, to drop alternator below bonnet line.
Have been very expensive in ,the past, that one being an aftermarket replacement.
the nice shines alternator above is an A127
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They are basically ether I think.
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Even neater is to remove the innards from a broken control box ( I am sure everyone is like me and has a box full of them) and solder a bit of wire between the relevant connectors.
invisble that way, and you don't end up with loose wires and a clump of insulating tape floating about.
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Open is with the pin out on the side opposite the water exit pipe, closed in when pin is in
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Many years ago I went to look at a local member's engine, as it was making a very odd noise. It had an alloy rocker cover, and the noise was whistling through the tiny hole in the cap. Like a pressure cooker relief but in reverse.
There was so much vacuum in the engine you could not remove the filler cap if the engine was running, and the whistling became a wail on the over-run.
He went back and queried this with the Triumph specialist he purchased it from, and was told that was normal as it was ne of his old race engines. The engine was certainly not standard. But that might much vacuum? It was like the intake system was routed through the crankcase.
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I am not convinced economy was top of Triumphs list of criteria when they decided to stick a BW35 on the back of a PI engine.
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Not sure a j-type box will fit a TR4, as there are differences between A-type and J- type TR6 chassis
Check before jumping in.
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I am sure I have a speedo and another gauge somewhere.
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Sprint alloys may require spacers ( and longer studs) as offset is slightly different.
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Play in which directions?
there should be no rotational play in any part of the prop, but make sure you lock one end solid to check
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9 hours ago, Mjit said:
Yep, Peter James set up Footman James, then sold it out ~10 years ago to one of the big insurance companies.
He then set up Peter James then set up the Peter James insurance company basically doing exactly the same thing Footman James used to do.
Think I read on here that he'd sold Peter James a year or two back too?If he has sold up that might explain a few things
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3 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
back in the 90s i managed our factory tachograph calibration centre , mech and electronic speedos were calibrated to a read fast tolerance of 10% + 4 mph so at 60 it could read 70 and be in tolerance if i remember rightly i would guess construction and use has changed as electronic accuracy can be more accurate ive not read them for years
Pete
C&U for our cars is +/- 10%
Current standard is +20%
I think oust manufacturers aim for a few % over to ensure no chance of misreading speedo
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They have the look of 1300fwd wheels.
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19 hours ago, KevinR said:
And this is one I saw for real myself - in Reykjavik a couple of years ago
That needs very careful observation to see quite what they have done there
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There used to be information about for the length of a bit of wood to put between the top of the screen frame and the rear deck which once removed after repairs were done would give correct door gaps once everything settled.
came originally from JK, but I lost my copy of it when Yahoo closed my email acct unexpectedly one day.
Body paint colour
in General
Posted
With a conifer car it may welll be a cactus stripe.
What page number is it on, I have looked through and can't spot it.