thescrapman
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Posts posted by thescrapman
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I thought all head numbers were stamped, the cast numbers don't help identify.
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You may find the back light isworking, just that your eyes are not sensitive enough to detect the light output from a Lucas 1W bulb.
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Surprised it didn't sell.
Inbeleive the seller has plenty of other Triumphs so may not need to sell it
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Take the earth wireoff the night dimming relay
the rev counter will work if you feed the electronic ignition with twelve volts, it is only getting six at the moment.
move the red wire feed from the coil to the other side of the ballast resister.
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11 hours ago, rulloyd said:
Electronic ignition is newtronic. I bought it about 25 years ago but has had little use (although I did have to put a join in the optic cable after it was cut). I’m pretty sure the join (soldered joints) is fine.
What would you expect could be affected by heat soak that would cause the problem? I have frequently encountered the starter motor struggling after a short stop before but only for 1 or 2 turns then it spins normally. Always a concern that one, but the engine is still running in (300 miles only) so I’m assuming the engine will loosen up?
cheers
Rich
The Piranhas / Newtronics seem to get dry joints on the pcb, also the big transistor plays up.
I run 4 of them, 2 I purchased as "fully working" from Ebay and were nothing of the sort.
The investigation revealed the dry joints, and swapping bits from a good one proved the transistor.
All have been running 20+ years now without any further issue.
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Note that is just the "body" harness
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Lots of modern cars are glued together, get the correct product and it ought to be better than welding.
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You would be better to glue the repair panel in I reckon.
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I know Andy Flexney was looking for a BW35 for a friend in Germany a couple of months ago.
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My thought is lots of wax and similar protectants, and keep using it.
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On 06/10/2021 at 21:43, JohnD said:
I was wrong! The Gaydon car is yellow. But it's RHD!
The article quoted is just nonsense! "Hardtop Spitfire"??? A Spitfire with a hardtop - but it doesn't
John
I beleive you could order a Spitfire with just a hardtop, save a few quid on not having a hood and frame.
there are different part numbers for some fittings that are specific to hardtop only cars
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On 30/09/2021 at 19:59, Mathew said:
Three phase supply, the options are endless. High torque motors running in delta or star, start in star and switch to delta. Reverse motor direction by swapping two phazes. Run by a 24v drop down control plc with contactors and relays. 3 phaze lifts, lathes and mills. Let alone the powerful compressor you could run. Run every other strip light by a different phaze so you don't get a strobe effect from your machinery. Instead just one used, what a waste.
Need to have a chat to you when I drop the GT6 off.
I have the powerful compressor already but need to explore my possibilities further.
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On 29/09/2021 at 10:00, DVD3500 said:
You can override this at anytime or decide not to even take part.
That is what you think..... 🙂
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On 30/09/2021 at 12:45, dellyend1 said:
Thank you all so much. I’d spotted the short engines on e-bay so that could be an option
best wishes
jeremy
A last option, it may be a much cheaper fix.
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I hád a 1500 Spitfire that kept suffering Fuel starvation
Found a Tigers tail in the tank... 😞
must have been there years.
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On 20/09/2021 at 13:55, Ian Smith said:
Hello Clive, thanks for the reply. The chassis very definitely has a chassis number, on a strip of steel. Hmm.... More investigation, methinks.
Cheers,
Ian
I would suggest you remove it and put it somewhere Safe.
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You need the fatter discs, and the calipers with the wider bolt spacing on both side.
It is possible, and really do not recommend it, fitting Lockheed calipers and matching discs from a Triumph 2000 to Spitfire uprights. It requires machining the disc mount face down to about 2mm thick to get offset right.
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22 hours ago, Bobtaylor said:
Synchro on 1st is non existent and and changing up and down into 2nd requires care to avoid crunching if you don’t double declutch. 3rd and 4th are fine and it is quiet. I also stick mostly to 3rd and top once on the move and as you say with so much torque it is not a big problem.
I am not too enthusiastic with quick changes or harsh acceleration so I wonder should I wait until it gets worse?!!! But I wonder if it would be more pleasant to drive with a working synchro on 1st and 2nd?
has anyone had a mk1 2lit box rebuilt and if so what would expect to pay?
Bob
If you have no synchro at all on 1st, you may well have a 1600 box.
2nd is always the first to get weak, then 3rd, as they do the most work.
You can usually get away with swapping first and second as a bodge fix, as you very rarely go from second to first.
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I think you will need to get the extra springs and the carrier.
it is quite easy to fit, do it in under an hour with the box on the bench.
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Estate ones?
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I keep hoping that Aral will open a station near me so I can buy their 102.
I suspect the actual price difference between regular and Super is fractions of a penny, but the super is a Premium product so needs to be at a premium price.
And if they were both the same price, which would you buy???
That would undoubtedly make the government put a premium tax in place to ensure they sell more of the E10.
Will be interesting to see what happens when ethanol is more expensive to produce than petrol, theoretically making E10 more expensive.
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Someone got a bargain like that from me many years ago.
About 20 years ago I purchased an utterly rotten Mk3 Spit that had been fitted (poorly) with a 2 litre engine from a 2000 saloon.
Engine looked terrible from having stood in the guys garden for at least 15 years we reckoned.
I then removed it and dumped it under a tree where it sat for a few years, until someone mentioned on one of the Yahoogroups (told you it was a few years ago) mentioned he needed an engine, sold it to him for spares for not much.
Couple of days later he rung me to say did I know it was a new engine. Must have been a crated engine the previous owner had picked up cheap in the 80's.
you win some you lose some.
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You apply for an anonymous tax disc (virtual) And once they receive the V5 to change it to your name they then associate the anonymous tax to you.
Then they refund you as it is actually Historic, or more likely you need to apply for it.
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The US chassis should have extra boot riggers.
Vitesse cylinder head?.
in Engine
Posted
There should be a stamped number on their soemwhere, perhaps the flat section near the rear if the head?