daverclasper
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Posts posted by daverclasper
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Hi. When doing this, I visually try to determine when the corrosponding valve/s are open fully to set the relevent closed valve gap.
Is this ok and accurate enough for the correct gap?, as I assume there is a some leeway anyway with the valve closed, due to the circular heel of the cam turning a bit after closing and then begining to open valve.
This is how I've always thought it would work out myself?, though been thinking for ages I should check.
Hope this is making sense?
Chhers
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I'm going, will look out for you John and other members. I won't be racing my old girl though (do they need to be safety preped for racing anyway?)
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On 16/02/2023 at 17:20, clive said:
Lastly, most people have forgotten that you need to be moving when turning the steering wheel. Todays power steering is there because of crazy caster angles needed for split brakes. But a side effect is that it feels ok to turn the wheel when stationary. But for cars without PAS that is a big no-no.
Is that because of a lot of stress on components Clive?. I assume the the UV joint seems obvious, then maybe the rack internals, maybe less so the trunnions, and then even the ball joints etc?.
Just interested, thanks
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1 hour ago, foshi said:
take mine to the local garage packet of biscuits keeps them happy they dispose for me paul
Wow. I wonder what they actually do with it?, as surely, to do it properly, trade waste would be very more expensive, than even posh biscuits.
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Thanks Johny. Will have a look at FWM. Are the screws accessed within the glovebox do you know?, or do you have to go under the dash?
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Hi. I would like to be able to pull dash out a few inches to spray electrical connectons with electrical grease to preserve against corrosion.
I have removed the front facing screws, though appears to be still fastened around the glove compartement area.
Cant find any detail in my manuals.
Any info please
Ta, Dave
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Hi. I have the basic repro hoses that have lasted a good few years, though can be difficult to get a good seal. The rubber is thinner than original I recon, and also not a soft/pliable.
Without changing to more expensive poly?, or dearer jubilee clips/fasteners, are there any tips.
I have heard of winding electrical tape around the stubs?, for example.
Cheers, Dave
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Thanks Guys. The current cover was thinned out with corrosion and the mating surface very narrow and has now started leaking. Bought a good used one off good old Mick dolphin a while back, so now time to fit
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I think the tread plates can be a rust trap as water goes underneath them and doesn't dry out soon. I used the Finnagans underseal (coatains Waxoyl), as seems to not dry out too much, underneath and also sealing the edges
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Hi. I have the paper/card gasket, though is worth putting a thin spread of sealant on on mating surfaces?
I have some Mannol red stuff that dries as a flexable plastic/rubber thingy and also blue Hylamar and some Stag well Seal (commonly used for oil seals)
Cheers, Dave
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On 10/02/2023 at 15:12, Iain T said:
Colin the setting to test continuity.
Hi Iain. What is the value/s on the screen, to look for for continuity, some continuity, no continuity?, as have no idea
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1 hour ago, dougbgt6 said:
just not a grey one,
It's blue under a cloudy sky.
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17 minutes ago, Peter Truman said:
I replaced the Vitesse steering joint UJ bushes with suitably sized plastic cable grommets cut in half and the surplus raised section of the annulus bit that fits the hole in the car body was cut flush. They worked well
Wow, I'm no engineer, though suprised they were up to job, as I assume they must take a lot of strain
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1 minute ago, dougbgt6 said:
Dave, it's a Herald.
But can still be classy, Mr Gt6 🙂
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4 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:
Dave! Heralds look their best BRIGHT red with a white stripe.
Doug, you may be joking about the stripe?. I do think the stripe is a bit gimmicky and detracts from the stylish, gracefull, contained elegant proportions (steady on), esp when it goes onto the front lamp surrounds on Vitesse.
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Looks like Gunmetal (same as my Vit). Classed in the grey section of Triumph colours. Appear to look more grey in sunlight and more bluey when overcast I've noticed.
It was a rarer (maybe unpopular?) colour at the time. I do think it looks classy and so far is my favourite colour for Vit/Herald, though I do think the lighter colours sort of suit the model better generally, though I'm not keen on them (maybe that doesn't make sense?
Anyway, anything apart from bright red
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56 minutes ago, MJH2454 said:
Adding more gaskets, is there a suggestion as to how many additional gaskets are needed?
I think I have read to make between 3mm - 5mm?, though no personnal experience
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On 04/02/2023 at 12:14, Pete Lewis said:
use RainEx instead of Brylcream then the flies dont stick.
Don't get em anymore. Not an exageration, but had only one fly on my Vit screen in 9 years of summer Motorway driving. In the good old days, on a hot day Motorway drive, I remember often using the wipers, it was that splattered with blood and that yellow insect stuff. Took a bit of elbow grease to remove once dried as well
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On 02/02/2023 at 20:25, Pete Lewis said:
the metal arm should have the rivets facing you agree looks upside down
I can't see which rivets you mean Pete?
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On 04/02/2023 at 08:57, NonMember said:
If there is a rattle it means there's impact happening, and the soft metal bearing is gradually being hammered flat, increasing the gap and making the problem worse. This process will be slow if the noise is only there at hot idle, and as long as you blip the throttle before pulling away (so that there's a bit of oil pressure before any load is applied).
I think Nick Jones mentioned once , that a bearing/s had started to make a noise the crank journals would likely to be oval and need addresing, any views on this?
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1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:
If I ever meet that PO again I'll tattoo 'I must not cover every inch of a car with Waxoyl' 1000 times across his buttocks.
Must have missed the earlier Waxoyl reference (or maybe not getting it?), though if I bought a car that had been literally covered inside and out, chassis, body (not interier trim etc), and I just had to switch the wipers on to drive it home, I would have thought a good bet.
Aside from Waxoyle apparantly, not great anymore?
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8 hours ago, thescrapman said:
Think carefully before replacing all the rubber bushes, especially if it is just because they are 40 years old, the original will be better than any new replacement rubber parts, and many poly substitutes are very poor.
Yes, that's I leaned after, doing replacing mine with Polys (mine were bulging and cracked at the ends, though are often fine)
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On 25/01/2023 at 14:38, NonMember said:
Probably running weak and at high load, which is the same conditions that caused VSR on my Toledo.
Was that the only damage?. Interested as running Jap 2 stroke Motorbikes years ago, if running a bit weak/or maybe timing a bit out?, at usual/higher occasional revs could sometimes cause holed/melted pistons. ( has since made me a bit paronoid about running weak). Hopefully, this is not such an issues with an old cast iron 4stroke engine, such as ours?.
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Thanks guys. The new shaft I fitted, was a £25 jobby a few years ago. Maybe done about 8000 miles since. Will check it's still supplying oil, when I get some time
Coolant Confusion
in Cooling System
Posted
Any personal problems with K seal Richeee?. Just asking, as there are different views on it.
Have used it myself on a couple of engines, with no apparent problems, and it MAY, have plugged a few smaller leaks that MAY have deleloped during that time?
No idea myself?