daverclasper
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Posts posted by daverclasper
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11 hours ago, Iain T said:
your tappet thread.
Thanks "our tappet thread".
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1 hour ago, Iain T said:
I have a mk2 which I hope has the same rockers as a TR6, well that's what Moss said.
Whoops, didn't realize from the 2 tone paint, it was a Mk2 , masquerading as an earlier model😉. Got to stick up for the cuter MK1's.
As far as I know? the later rockers/shaft, from the later, wider head etc, Vit Mk2/GT6 Mk2/Tr5/6, though I haven't read the Sideways thing above,, so I could be talking SH~~~..
Dave .
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Have recently fitted one to my Mk1 Vitesse. As far as I know engine standard.
Holes lined up, though some exhaust apertures were at least 1mm too small.
Just needed to get car back running, so left it as it was ( I only potter so not a big deal ?).
On the whole I haven't had expensive (though has taken a fair bit of my time to sort ) issues yet with modern parts. It can be frustrating at times , though generally, I'm just glad that as our cars are popular and still catered for.
I still think it's worth notifying/complaining at times , as it could be something simplistic to rectify?, as well as demanding to other folk who are out to rip you off
I would rather pay more , for a manifold gasket, that I knew was good, though for other parts that have been ok and cheap, I feel chuffed.
Then as well, pissed off when a £2 trunnion upper seal starts failing after 2 years (would rather pay more more in the first place to save having to strip hub down).
Ownership of my Vit, has been cheap, (though time consuming on occasion), regarding parts so far for me so far.
I feel more glass half full than empty.
Cheers, Dave
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2 hours ago, Iain T said:
Ha Ha, I'm going down the Moss bushed rocker route and getting them reamed to a new shaft.
Hi Iain. Did you not have a new shaft with bushed rockers recently?. If so did they get mullered with your oil flow issues?.
Is the Moss one a good un then?. Also I thought Moss don't do Vit/GT6 stuff as such. I thought you had a Mk1 Vit, so unless a later Mk2 engine fitted (that maybe TR rocker compatible) they wouldn't stock them?.
Or was the Moss thing, you being ironic anyway?.
Interested, as fitted a new cheap shaft a while back and have some pos tappet noise (I think I started the thread that went onto your recent rocker oil flow issues), though not had the time, or quite the inclination to strip it again.
Cheers, Dave
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Hi. The trim that runs along the front of bonnet and rear of roof I want to remove as looks like it is rusting a bit underneath.
I understand that it will tap off, with a piece of wood to protect it?. When refitting, will it be prone to scraping the paint off?. If so any tips on avoiding this.
Cheers, Dave
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14 hours ago, Peter Truman said:
once had the grub screw at the rear that holds the rocker shaft come out on a 6 potter buggered the shaft in 100klm, rockers siezed.
Peter, was that because oil came out of screw hole and starved the rockers of oil/pressure?.
Dave
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Iain. Don't know if this is useful.
On my Vit. Old very worn shaft at front/old rockers = no oil from rocker tops at the front.
New shaft, old rockers (rattling fit), then a continuous, small, slow trickle from top rocker holes at at idle.
Always had good oil pressure (going by the gauge?).
Not sure what it would be like, if everything spot on, eg new engine?.
Dave
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Could have been worse like you said Iain. Good luck with it.
I think the oil light only comes on at pretty low oil pressure anyway?, so not a great guide to health, I guess?.
Oil press gauges, sometimes called worry gauges, though some worry may have helped in this situ.
Dave
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2 hours ago, 68vitesse said:
Placed one strap through the partially open rear windows so it would have to take the roof with it.
Now that's a good idea, for my Paddy Hopkirk roof bars, adapted to a roof rack. Anything to make those gutter grapper things more secure.
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Original around 6v, recon around 4v no higher, flickering up and down within about a volt (though digital meters may cause this I understand?).
I've read up on this and should be around 16/18v, if I remember correctly. A few year ago now.
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My original C40L and second one (a private sale on E Bay, as a recon, it looked like one too, new covering around the fields, new terminals, wiring. brushes, etc and clean), though didn't fit it until way after I bought it, Doh.
rpm Both failed the "bridging the two dynamo terminals" test by producing low voltage at 700 rpm and higher (I also made sure it was earthing with jump lead from dynamo to battery). The more involved tests on both with them dismantled were ok. So a bit surprised, though apparently the only proper test is with a growler.
My ignition light would go out above idle, though I assumed this was because it was producing some voltage
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Thanks Pete. That's cleared it up.
Dave
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I'm a bit confused. I'm haven't tried to disturb the bearing, though assuming it may be still tight in the housing?.
It seems the only obvious thing out of spec, is the inner part of bearing, which is snug, rather than tight on the shaft, so was wondering if to Loctite it, or if it doesn't matter that shaft may spin on inner part, then just to give it a bit of grease to help it along and a bit less wear?.
Cheers, Dave
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On 11/10/2020 at 15:36, Colin Lindsay said:
and of course, 8mm or 9mm
Did you mean 0.8/0.9. If so. Would .8 be too bodgy?. .9 not squeeze in there?. I'm not an engineer, so just wondered.
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The window seals are available. The rears are quite pricy, last time I looked, about £70. Which would be ok, but there likely to be poor quality and sometimes poor fit, like most rubber (and other) parts for our cars I'm afraid.
A UK company "Baines" may have better quality, as I think they manufacture in house, though last time I looked they only did front screens, if I remember. Might be worth ringing them if there not listed on web site.
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48 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:
the steel shaft will be fine its the soft case you dont want any spinning going
Thanks, so would a slight smear of grease on the shaft help, if it may be prone to spinning on inner race (It's not a tight fit). I presume grease would also prompt it to spin?.
Also what's "bearing fit" please Pete.
Sorry if this is going on a bit.
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Thanks. Yes It's a ball race. in the semi gloom, (one light bulb went, at the time) I assumed it was a bush (same as rear) though realized after my post. Apologies, if not clear.
So, Loctite inner bearing race to shaft?, in case it's prone to spinning.
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Thanks Pete. It's a normal bearing in the front cover and the inner race turns smoothly and feels like it still has grease in it. It's not a tight fit on the shaft, more like snug.
I gather this should be a tight fit, according to an article online. This guy rebuild a C39 which is very similar and his bearing to shaft was not tight. He used a form of Loctite. He seemed to now what he was talking about?.
Should I do the same, do you think.
Dave
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Thanks Pete, It's actually a steel bearing at the front, secured by a large circlip, which is shown on parts diagrams as well. Hence the apparent grease.
It's feels smooth running, so I'm thinking I'll leave it alone, just in case I cause one of my disasters, by meddling (don't know how easy it is to get out/refit, if an interference fit on the outer edge ect).
Cheers, Dave
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Hi and thanks
Have stripped the C40 down to it's larger parts. Couple of questions please.
The front bush looks like it has been lubed in that area with grease. Is it worth trying to clean through with carb cleaner etc, then using an aerosol grease (warmed up), which is white grease, or, I also have motorbike chain grease in an aerosol. Or clean and run some engine oil in it, like the rear?.
The front cover came off easily with the bush from the shaft. Is it supposed to be an interference fit on the shaft and the bush rotates within a bearing carrier in the cover, if this makes sense?.
Also, is it worthwhile and ok to clean the steel segments on the armature with abrasive paper, that have a bit of surface rust.
Just thought that if this dynamo works ok ish, then might keep it on and worth prepping it a bit, as there has been some bad press reg current alternators.
Cheers, Dave
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48 minutes ago, Nick Jones said:
The other irony is that when your rockers and rocker shaft are good, even less oil is visible as the close tolerances limit the flow at the exit points.
Oh dear, hope I'm not overcomplicating this. I had a different result to that Nick. Noticed that less/no oil visible coming out of top of about the 6 front rockers. Stripped down shaft. Rocker holes and shaft/holes clean (as I thought they may be blocked).
Very worn shaft at front half, in the area/plane (lower to rear, along the length), where I assume the rockers are under spring tension, which as I remember is also the area of shaft than has the oil scrolls/grooves. The scrolls were non/partially existent. Assumed that was limiting/stopping oil supply.
New shaft and was ok, good dribbling out of the top of all rockers at idle (though I did notice that one rocker, about halfway along, wasn't very recently?, when checking valve clearance) . Any ideas please?.
Someone else?, Maybe Gully?, can't remember, had same issue and cure a while back I think.
Dave
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That's great, well done. Was it head off in the end, or just a re-torque?.
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Also found Vaseline handy for tight rubbers (couldn't think of another easy way of putting it).
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Thanks Rob, that's great. I have an extra mounting bracket to modify that Paula supplied, so ok there.
Guidance from those who know?
in Bodywork & Fittings
Posted · Edited by daverclasper
Yes. But we know the score by now, you expect to have to fix an old Triumph fairly regularly (unless it's a particularly good un), but not the thing your trying to fix it with.
Reviews are odd. Sometimes maybe false, other times I think honest ( eg Screwfix ). Can be 9 out of 10 positive, then one person gives a complete slagging and for some reason I tend to focus on that!.