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daverclasper

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Posts posted by daverclasper

  1. Cheers for that, have some spare chassis/turret shims.

    What sort of approx gap would I aim for between the pressed channel in sump and rack?.

    Also, I assume the gear box mount doesn,t need loosening for this amount of engine raising?.

    Thanks, Dave

  2. Hi. Don't know how old or how good quality (lot's of crap about) your rubber hoses are?. This can produce the slivers.

    Also, when fitting or refitting hoses, smooth down any bure/sharp edges on the metal pipes and smear a bit of vasaline on the pipes. If pos, push the hoses square on. All helps to not shave into the rubber.

  3. Cheers.  Been away for a few days and still in a rush so no time tonight, though sprayed the engine mount fastenings with penetration oil for changing them soon.

    Did notice some 2 shims on each side (look the same as the suspension to chassis ones, for camber altering, though no time for a good look) I think between the mounts and the suspension turrets, though can't check now.

    Is this common for fettling, or suggests a problem?.

    Thanks, Dave

     

     

     

     

  4. good luck with the search.

    Wow. They seem to have gone up in value quite a bit?.

    One thing that appears noticeable on most of those examples, is the upper and front area of the door swage line (where the different flash colour is on 2 tone cars) is proud from the swage of the bonnet (noticed this before on other cars, including my Vitesse).

    Is this, kind of normal?.

     

  5. Thanks. Car has done about 120,000 miles and has original engine. No idea if it's had rebuilds?.

    I know the sump to steering rack clearance is tight on Vitesse, though mine is 1mm at nearside edge of sump (I imagine the rubber engine mounts can compress over time?).

    Clutching at straws here I reckon, but any chance this could be causing the noise when driving?.

    Cheers, Dave

  6. Thanks for that offer, may well take you up on it, though at the mo, I can't even attache to email.  Have been trying it with test vid, as need to drive car to do the actual one. Dont even know if the vid will record knock/rattle, I'm a bit concerned about. Should be out in car tom.

    This my recent, first ever smart phone and it's definately outsmarted me.

     

     

     

  7. Thanks. I maybe should have mentioned, the vid, is one taken from from my phone camera and appears to be automatically stored in the Gallery, Photo's and Files app's.  Have highlighted the "Files' bit of the foum posting box, then tried clicking/double clicking on the vid image in these 3 app's. It wont trasnsfer it.

    All a bit beyond me, this stuff. Give me a wheel bearing to change anytime.

  8. 40 minutes ago, johny said:

    How are the spindles? There should be minimal play if you rock each spindle where it enters the body on both sides...

    A check to see if it's also wear in the spindle bore, on the carb bodies (not as common as spindle wear, though my original ones had this), is to move the Spindle along to an unworn part and if min play, then bodies should be ok I understand?.

    Bodies can be fitted with bushings to account for this I think?, though specialist stuff and not cheap, I imagine?.  

  9. 1 hour ago, trigolf said:

    I'm looking for a service kit for my Vitesse.

    Not sure (from memory?) if you need all the parts in a general service kit, as in, regarding the actual wear you have on a component,

    Sure, tired rubbers, etc, you need.

    Eg, I think (from?) memory the kits often have the butterfly discs, that I understand aren't often worn?.

    I sorted mine out, to a reliable level, fairly cheaply with just a few bits.

    PS. Maybe shouldn't be offering these opinions, even if there ok, as our suppliers may struggle?. 

    • Like 1
  10. On 08/01/2021 at 18:21, Pete Lewis said:

    certainly a good dull knock on load 

    It's more of a quieter dull knock (I think) under light acceleration and doesn't appear to get worse at faster acceleration/higher revs (though more general exhaust noise then, so not sure?), or when, say mauling it a bit in higher gears.

    Can't hear it, revving up up in neutral.

    It's being doing it for about the past 1000+ miles (quite gentle use) and I don't think?, has got much worse.

    Oil pressure has stayed the same (although did drop about 10 psi at 2000 rpm and a little bit at idle, almost over night, after an oil change and a longish run, and has a few oil changes, since then with different, though good 20/50 oils and still the same and not got worse.

    This was fair while/good few 1000 miles, before the noise started.

    Worth trying to drop sump do you think, and have a look at bearings, or keep taking the paranoia pills?.

    I don't want to make the crank journals worse if pos, by keep running it?.  No facilities for engine out (no garage and have to work at side of road).

    I realise this is a sort of "how long is a piece of string" scenario, though any thoughts much appreciated please.

    Thanks, Dave

     

  11. Hi. I've had the bottom end of 4 stroke Jap motor bikes apart before, though never a car engine.

    On the bikes, the bores for the bearing shells seemed to be machined out, though I always replaced the shells in the original order to retain the bedding in/wear foot print.

    I was surprised to read in my factory Vitesse/Gt6 manual that crank bearing shells need to be replaced in original order "as the shells are fitted onto the block, then lined bored out".

    If this is the case, then how can new shells be fitted and the bores still line up?.

    Have I missed something basic here?.

    Cheers, Dave      

  12. 21 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:

    Couldn't settle, TV rubbish tonight so out to the garage again. I've found a large section of brand new wiring loom in a box marked Autosparks 1810 which is GT6 MK1 1966 - 68. Photos below.

     

    The tape, is that just called "harness tape". Would like to get hold of some good electrical tape, rather than general stuff that just goes sticky. 

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