daverclasper
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Posts posted by daverclasper
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On 25/02/2021 at 18:15, johny said:
In your case I think the cam is flat at the beginning so really you need to add metal to operate the throttle earlier or face drastically changing its profile....
I reprofiled mine for Strombergs. Took it off the upper area. I think, as you can then adjust the screw to get the lower/first area of contact, then it's doing a similar thing?.
It improved mine.
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Always wondered if. When setting up an engine with some wear (first do the book/base settings for carbs and timing), then as I understand, timing affects fuel burn/mixture and sort of vice versa (chicken or egg situ?). Is this correct?. If so, just a case of some twiddling to get it running ok/well, rather than spot on?.
For most of us DIYers, then the only way to analyze the state of tune is a rolling road?
More interested than I'm wanting total perfection.
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1 hour ago, Colin Lindsay said:
It's not rocket science but first things first: remove it from the block and have a quick inspection.
Or looking at the gauze filter as a first, then I think can be removed easily with pump still in situ?.
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On 25/02/2021 at 08:25, clive said:
The courier spring is much stronger, but also flatter. I fitted one to a herald estate with a 1" lowering block, and it handled like it was on rails.
Surprised they haven't remanufactured those, as a "worthwhile" upgrade.?
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13 minutes ago, Gadgetman said:
What about a weak mixture, would that do it
I have had those symptoms when running weak. I think too much advance timing can also cause it?, though you should also get pinking as well I think?.
I'm no expert though!
Dave
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25 minutes ago, NonMember said:
The ignition bulb provides starter current to the alternator so it needs to be of a sufficient power rating.
Does this mean if the the bulbs blown or not sufficient, it won't supply the alternator/dynamo to work?.
Cheers , Dave
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Had those common dimples, not too severe. Had an issue on braking on one side. A thumping when braking at slow speeds and much less shoe wear.
I welded the dimple on that side and flatted it, and hoped that cured it. No. After more messing about,( changing wheel cylinder, etc), As a last resort, after reading about hoses deteriating internally (working as a one way valve) I changed them. No problem since.
So maybe worth bearing in mind if you get these symptoms.
Car passed 2 MOT's with these symptoms. I asked about the brake test. Just a bit of grabbing on the dodgy side was the reply.
Dave
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Hello. Anyone on here had a go at this?. Lot's on U Tube, though to me, doesn't give enough basic DIY info on this "secret black art".
Would be interested in any DIY/Cheap/alternative tools that can be used and any practical "links to info" that are relevant to a novice.
Would like to give this a go (on scrap doors etc, to begin with), as used to do metal shaping, though, finer stuff for jewelry, so hoping I've got the hand/eye needed.
Would like to improve a few dings on Triumph, not a career of it.
Cheers, Dave
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7 hours ago, raygeorge said:
300,000 miles worth at least of tired.
Is that the mileage whilst fitted on the Herald. if so a record for a Herald?.
Dave
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Goodo. Well done
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1 minute ago, Pete Lewis said:
one idea would be use the existing tappet screw fitted in a new rocker
Doh. Thanks. Sort of obvious now you mention.
Cheers, Dave
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This is actually, more about using the existing pushrods in their historical positions with the tappets, but with alien used rockers. Is this ok, and does it work, as far as creating an ok new footprint with the rockers goes? (if not maybe use some valve grinding paste?).
Cheers, Dave
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3 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:
(which used to be 6p coins)
Was that the silver (coloured) tanner, half a shilling, six pennies?. Can't remember anymore.
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I thought the actual tread plates were the steel section, rather than the alloy tops?.
If its the steel sections (double skinned I understand?) you need, then I think Clive used a single skin from Chick Doig (Thicker steel I assume?).
Dave
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20 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
I'm just in the process of doing exactly that, cutting and shaping the lid of a biscuit tin... I'll glue mine in with Tigerseal. I'm just glad I have an old version to use as a guide.
Any reason why your not painting up the old ones ? (wondering as that was what I was maybe going to do on my rusty ones), as you seem to do a lot of that type of restoring, as do I.
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Cheers chaps. Yes doing it static. I have a spare dizzy that does return, so though maybe not quite right.
Reason I asked was, I understand timing has an affect on mixture and never been sure if it's ok on my car.
I do some city driving as live in one. When doing this my plugs colours are always a small patch of brown and the rest very sooty, though plugs are always a very pale grey when running a bit harder.
I now there's richer running when stop/accelerating in slow traffic. Don't think it's the choke so much as car will have sooty plugs after a Motorway run, then a few miles through town. Fuel consumption is about the book for runs, though maybe more on the heavy side than it should be for city driving (I reckon about 15 mpg during winter and a bit better in summer).
Have read up a lot on tuning and correct condition and done work on carbs, so they should be ok.
Car does run pretty good, so not too bothered, more of a wondering thing, if you get me.
Thanks, Dave
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Hi. Cam spindle does not quite return to it's return stop position by spring pressure, by maybe a couple of mm (no idea what degrees this would be?).
Assume this not quite right, maybe affecting timing throughout the whole rev range, from idle to higher?.
What would the likely symptoms of this be please?.
Thanks, Dave
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It could have said very low "mileage"😉, which is more sensible (I assume were not debating the honesty of the 92 miles at this point), though if that car/speedo had done (unbelievably), 92 miles since new, without stopping at traffic lights etc, then it would be true, "though silly".
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22 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
Dave you must have seen Ray and I doing this on one of our HQ twiddle days ????
dont forget putting it right wont replace the scrubbed off rubber
without getting the trig tables out think of a right angled triangle the tyre tracks the hypotenuse the car takes the adjacent and the opposite is the sideways drag
Hi Pete, Yes, enjoyed the day immensely and got involved with the measuring of the tracking.
Improving it, should help with my new tyres since then, I assume?.
Didn't quite understand the triangle example, though the way I thought of this previously was, as the leading edge of the tyre if toed in, would be the outer side/edge and the thrust of the car moving forward in a straight line, would scrub this edge? (if this makes sense, hopefully).
I did think outer edges of both front tyres would have similar wear, maybe road camber/swinging right around roundabouts wears the nearside more?.
Cheers, Dave
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Used a couple of bricks each side of each wheel and lengths ok 2" angle iron which was stable enough with care (though still would have been easier with a helper). No big sweaty blokes around to sit in car and set at about 3mm (was about 10mm before! and nearside outer edge had worn more?). will do again sometime and just aim for 0 to 1mm.
Don't now how much difference a few mm makes really?, I think factory acceptable bearing tolerance would alter what it is doing on the road, couple of mm as well?.
Interesting stuff.
Dave
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3 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Nowadays the autojumbles have suffered as everybody sells online, so parts for sale are well down,
Yes, a shame. I guess also there aren't as many old parts about, as they get used up?.
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4 hours ago, johny said:
Must admit Im quite impressed with Triumphs 50 yr old electrics in general. On my car everything is original and Ive had very few electrical problems either with wiring or components.
Same here. Had the car nearly 8 years and lives outside. Loom in was in good condition and I spray all the connections (apart from the ones under the dash that I can't reach easily) every 2 years with AC 50.
Never broke down apart from 2 crap modern condensers, when I first got it. Used some NOS, rotor, points, condenser after that and been fine.
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1 hour ago, s99sdp said:
I’ll get a mobile carb man to pay me a visit and get it tuned up as it’s running quite rich atm
Hi. If you want to get someone else to look at the carbs (If they are standard, then pretty simple to sort out and tune mostly, plenty of info on the web and on here), then if possible, I would look for an old school guy, who worked on these in the past and has a good rep.
Plenty of folk out there ready to take your your money and not care at all (or am I too cynical?).
Dave
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On 05/02/2021 at 14:43, Conor L said:
Today the noise that has been driving me mad has been identified! Stethoscope arrived this morning and it appears that number 6, 7 cam followers are tapping like mad.
Hi Conor. Glad your getting somewhere with it.
Have an ongoing noise on my engine, that I would like to pin down if I can. I have an engine stethoscope (only about a fiver new) that I guess should do the job?, though my inexperience on this listening stuff, maybe wont.
So interested where on the engine the cam follower noise was located with stethoscope?.
Ta, Dave
Oil drips
in Engine
Posted
Starting up from cold, and twiddling seems to drink it.