daverclasper

Cheers Darren. Just want to test one Iv'e bought, direct from battery. I guess live (no2) Earth (E) Dave

Hi folks. Wiring not my strong point so please bear with. My motor has 3 wiring connections. One marked earth and the two marked 1 and 2. I assumed there would only be a live and earth (if not earthed through the body, as there are rubber mounts on the motor fixings). Any help much appreciated thanks. Cheers, Dave

I think I'm generally quite shrewd. Not in this case

Cheers Pete.

Hi folks. Just to let you know. A woman is selling some family hand downs on ebay (panasiuk6). Finishes Sunday. Some Triumph and other classic parts that are described a original and look like they be hard to find, with a buy it now price that seems cheap or reasonable. There's even a spitfire (the plane) false horizon gauge for £100. Maybe not much demand!. Cheers, Dave

Cheers Pete I can't see a hole marked "oil" on base plate, or a top bearing bush on Haynes diagram. When you say oil it anywhere, would the area where the area of the main spindle/shaft at the bottom of the cam lobes be ok. Cheers, Dave

Hi folks I seem to remember reading about lubrication of the bearing/s on these is important, but can't find anything in manuals or online. If this is the case, where would I oil and how much please. Cheers, Dave

Cheers Millers seems the way. It is a mineral ?. Wasn't aware of the zzzz,s (zinc ?) being important. Also engine hardly ever goes over 3500 revs, so thought ok. Also, is it beneficial to give the engine a bit of a thrash, now and again, as these days I'm more like a Sunday driver 24/7. Cheers, Dave

Thanks for your replies. It is showing AP1 SE CC Not good enough?. Also is any 20/50 not good enough?. Cheers, Dave

Hi folks Vitesse Looking at Changing the suspension bushes. Is it feasible to remove/fit without removing suspension parts from the car. If so, I thinking of buying vintage/strong G clamp/s. Would these be ok to use and if so what are the best size/s for performance and accessability. Cheers, Dave

Thanks a lot for your replies The oil I'm using is Wilko's classic 20W-50 at £15.00 for 5 Litres, which might horrify some. Cheers, Dave

Hi folks Car holds good pressure on the gauge, but I understand some things can be fettled to show this. Have read that if the gauge is fluctuating slightly (which mine does on my uneven idle) or losing a bit under load (say, going up a motorway incline, which mine does), then maybe the bearing aren't holding the pressure. Any advice on this and if it's a problem (car just has road use and not thrashed, does about 3000 miles a year) would be great. Thanks, Dave

Hi I have overdrive bitza fitted to Vitesse mk1 2Litre, that has the bigger engined Dolly shafts to accommodate J type OD. I think I have more details if you need them, eg same clutch as 2 litre Vitesse, apart from friction plate to fit the different Doly splines (TR7/bigger engined Dolly). Was rebuilt by Mike Papworth recently. He knows triumph gear boxes inside out. Dave

Hi john, thanks The diaphragm is correct way, though is not very supple and could be very old, so may the problem. Cheers, Dave

Cheers Pete That's cleared it up a lot. Hopefully only one final question if you will bear with me. The WSM bit on reassembly it quotes " taking care to correctly locate the plunger in the center of the guides in orifice plate". I assume this means the pin attached to the circular plate (or valve pin as the manual calls it)?. Thanks, Dave

Thanks Pete I don't understand how the valve works. The diaphragm looks like it would need vacuum to suck it down (but wouldn't get any from manifold as the little valve thing in the bottom would be shut). Also when the round plate with the pin on is pushed down against the spring to rest on the 4 lugs, the pin doesn't quite reach the valve thing at the bottom. Also if the engine does stall when rocker cap off and it shouldn't, is this related to the valve not operating properly, or something more sinister do you know please. Haven't had time to try a homemade diaphragm yet. When you said poly, did you mean polythene bag?. Any help would be great, thanks. Dave

Forgot to mention, Ran the PCV into the inlet manifold. Dave

Hi folks Vitesse Mk1 2 Litre My car came with a tube fitted from the rocker cover, to the air filter box and the inlet manifold top hole blanked off. My air filters were getting a bit contaminated with oily residue, so I blanked of the air filter hole and just left it open at the rocker cover. I bought a second hand PCV valve, complete with hoses, that look like they may be original and a bit perished, but no obvious splits and fitted it. The diagram is probably old, but no holes (not sure what it's made of, doesn't seem like rubber). Car now a bit more difficult to start and a rougher idle, also will stall when the revs are shut off (haven't driven it yet, so don't know what general performance like). Also will stall when the oil filler cap removed, which it didn't do before. Just wondering if the original valve was removed, due to engine issues or if I can get it to run ok with valve fitted, maybe mixture/timing alterations. Any help would be great. Cheers, Dave

Thanks so much Pete. Don't know what we'd do without you. Has saved me a load of work. Cheers, Dave

Cheers Pete, that's great. I guess I have to take shocker off to check bush ?. Also should I check this soon, does it damage turret, or anything else if left ?. Thanks, Dave

Cheers Pete Undid the links ok. Did a couple of miles. Sounds like it's possibly better, though car makes other noises anyway, so not easy to always differentiate). Would it be ok to go for a longer slow drive (live in a city, so slow anyway) ?. Thinking I may buy new drop links anyway to try, as the one on the side I think the noise is coming from, is showing a split in the rubber that goes into the ball shaped bit. What do you think please ? (got to be a bit careful what I spend on the jalopy for matrimonial harmony). Cheers, Dave

Hi folks and thanks. Wondering about the anti-bar drop links. The bushes look a bit deteriorated, but no metal on metal. Would it do any harm to remove the bar and links and go for a gentle drive to see if noise disappears. Cheers, Dave

Cheers for getting back to me Guys. I have not replaced any bushes except one of the front trunnion ones and no receipts came with the car for any except for rear lower shock bushes. Have had the car 3 years now and apart from the anti-roll bar ones that attach to side of chassis rails, they appear to be the black rubber ones. Would like to change them all, when I have time, as they must be getting ropey surely. Still not sure how to check the bushes, (for example the front upper wishbone) I would have thought something solid would have to be placed underneath the bush area, with a gap to be able to lever upwards. Also I imagine the load would have to be off the suspension, in the droop position. Any more explanations would be great please. I know it's basic stuff, but not done it before. Cheers, Dave

Hi folks Vitesse mk1 2 Litre Have a chassis noise going over uneven road surfaces at lower speeds that has got worse over the past 2 years and now very apparent. Sounds something like the maybe exhaust hitting the chassis. Never found anything obviously loose underneath the car. Wondering what may be likely cause and also how to check suspension bushes, apart from visual checks if this may be the problem. Have not found a clear way to do this after reading manuals and my many old car repair books. Any advice as always much appreciated. Cheers, Dave

Hi folks. Wondering if it's worth trying this. My idea is to drill a central hole into top of drain/filler plug and fit a small magnet, glued with JB Weld/ Arardite etc. What do you think. Is it worth it. Cheers, Dave