daverclasper

Hi folks Are these a useful bit of kit and do what it says on the tin. Also when using it for fuel pressure test for car with a mechanical pump, if engine was turned off. Would the the fuel pressure still be held (as a leak down test, to see if needle valves are seating). Any help great please. Cheers, Dave

Hi folks Have just obtained a generic inline fuel tap to fit between the tank and main fuel line for the Vitesse as possible anti theft device (as car parked a bit vulnerably at the mo). A couple of questions please. The bore of the stubs on the filter is approx 4mm. Will this be enough to supply fuel at all revs (as I under stand that lack of fuel at high revs. can do damage to engine). What typical distance would the car do on a probably cold engine (If it was nicked by would be thieves) with fuel cut off from the tank on start up. Any advice great please. Cheers, Dave

Hi What are the issues with the original skinny studs. Mine has these. I just torque up by hand (have always done on vehicles). Don't drive hard/very fast or corner fast. Am I an accident waiting to happen?. Been pondering this for a while after all the threads on it. Cheers, Dave

I had a knock a lower speeds over rough surfaces. It was a front radius arm bush. cheers, Dave

Cheers Clive Will do that. Dave

Hi folks. My cars is very sound bodily, though shows traces of rust around/top of quite a few seams. Guess this rust in seams is common in classics (and hidden in newly painted "restored " ! ones). Not easy to sort properly I guess. So, alternatively, clean up visual rust , treat/paint the surface to keep at bay and won't be rotted out for a long time hopefully. Any advice great please. Cheers, Dave

Hi. It's the original diaphragm (another story why I removed it), though looking back, I fitted the inner tab of diaphragm correctly in line, though there wasn't (to me) an obvious way to locate the inner edge centrally, so did it by eye. This could maybe result in the top cap bore being a bit to one side when the outer edge fits into the carb body?. Cheers, Dave

Hi and thanks a lot for getting back The top cover is in correct and it's usual position. The jet assembly not fitted yet. The piston moves freely in the top cover and carb body. The problem appears to be a super sensitivity when doing the screws up. Pushing the piston up while doing alternating (1/8 turns) of screws and it will often bind. Backing screw back and tweaking others, then screwing again and I have finally got the piston to drop, though it is slow (compared to other carb) and doesn't make the reassuring noise when it contacts the bridge. Not sure if I can successfully center (my brand new) jet and needle while like this and also carb may not function properly. Cheers, Dave

Hi folks Have done this before quite a few times fairly easily. Have removed the diaphragm and refitted it with tabs correctly located. Now having real trouble tightening the top cover (diagonally opposite sides a little at a time) without the piston sticking (one screw seems more rogue than the others and even the slightest turn will cause this). Any clues would be great thanks Cheers, Dave

Can't quite picture all that, though, after trying to re grease the Half shaft U/J's (even buying the longer nipples) on Vitesse ,I couldn't get the grease gun tip in there whatever the shaft orientation. Was informed on here that this is normal and even if you can access them, then grease will not usually push out of all 4 bearings, so called it a day. Cheers Dave

Hi I had my Vitesse 2 litre box rebuilt by Mike Papworth. He recommended fitting only 1 of the 3 springs (didn't matter which 1) and showed me an old part which had gouges in due to the 3 springs. Seemed odd, but went with it, as he's reputedly an expert. Cheers, Dave

Anything rubber which is difficult to manipulate into place, I leave in very hot water for a minute. Seems to often work. Cheers, Dave

Ed china, who's a big lad, was passenger in a spit, he and Mike brewer did. His head was way above the screen, wearing goggles. Bit amusing I thought. Don't know who's joke it was first.

Hi Is the factory "fitted length",with the shock and spring fitted together but, off the car, or on the car with suitable loading (bags of sand etc) please. Cheers, Dave

Hi folks Vitesse Is this worth doing, and if so what's the best lubricant. Also, do the inner cables just pull out, if say disconnected at the drive ends. Any help great please. Cheers, Dave

I think that's subjective.

Hi. Had problems with bleeding clutch in the past. One thing that seemed to help a lot. Do normal bleeding, then open bleed nipple and push the slave cylinder push rod/piston up to front of cylinder (to expel any air from top of housing) and tighten nipple. Cheers, Dave

Hi and thanks. Would like to take it for a hard blast to clear carbon etc, though concerned something might "let go" as don't have any history of any rebuild type engine work that may have been done in the past. Cheers, Dave

Thanks Pete. Yup. Fired up on all six straightaway and done 150 miles since. I know I can do compression test to point to things, but I'm trying to get in the frame of mind, that it's an old car and running well , so don't get obsessive Cheers, Dave

Hi folks had to unavoidably drive 50 miles to a wedding with car not firing on one (no 2) cylinder (out of six). I had taken it gently. Just wondering if this caused harm. My thoughts were. Cylinder not getting hot. Only a tiny amount of fuel vapor that gets thrown out on exhaust stroke so not washing bores. Only asking, as replaced plug from that cylinder is now a bit oily and carbonated (150 miles later) and not shown that in since owned car 3 years ago (though maybe it was cause of old plug not firing). Plug was petrol wet with not firing, so replaced it with spare in case plug had failed. Any thoughts, would be great. Cheers, Dave

Hi Just refreshing this thread. Must be folk out there with 185's on Herald/Vitesse. An idea of how much these would typically stick out/are inside the side the wing/top of wheel arch would be brill. Cheers, Dave

Hi Karl Don't know how bad yours are, though, having read a few threads on current repro engine mounts, they appear to be terrible (lasting a few months). Mine ,which were on car when I bought it over 3 years ago have always looked pretty shot, but haven't given trouble yet. Might be worth bearing in mind, though there may ok new ones out there?. Dave

Thanks Clive Will swap shocks/springs over when get a bit of time. The side that is proud of the wing, with more shims is showing pos camber (This has just been a rough check, using a 13" length of straight batton across the wheel rims and a small spirit level. It's showing about 4mm pos camber against that 13", if that makes sense. Cheers, Dave

Thanks for that. I would like to fit 165's, though at the mo it seems the front nearside outer edge tyre is wearing more ,sticking out more and showing pos camber and has twice as many shims between the lower wishbone brackets as the nearside (which shows neg camber). I can't see any visual damage to chassis (front cross member and lower points of rear chassis rails are the same using a spirit level), wishbones,vertical link. The nearside spring appears to have sagged more (about 10mm shorter with the car at rest), though don't know if this would account for the different cambers/profiles to the wing. Cheers, Dave

Thanks There Minilites 5" Cheers, Dave