daverclasper

Hi Having a few issues with carbs at the mo which I'm trying to sus out and will prob go into more detail later. Have to a 200 mile trip shortly which I'll take steady. Plugs colour is a very pale grey, flakey coating which I think suggests weak mixture. just wondering if this may cause over heating damage to pistons/valves. Any help great please. Cheers, Dave

Thought may be of interest (no connection to seller). Ad reads £25, ono, Good condition 01964670036 East yorkshire Dave

The Morris Minor Center in Bristol use a guy (can't remember his name),who works part time for them as a trimmer. No experience of his work, though he gave me good advice on a sun roof I was restoring. Dave

Hi At some time the car has had, what looks like the lower front wishbone bracket shims (2 each side) fitted to the engine mounts to raise the engine height. Not looked recently, but think the steering rack is very close to sump. The top hose is just touching the inside of bonnet and car has largish gaps between vertical rear edge of bonnet and bulkhead (maybe to aid this hose clearance). Any idea what may be causing this, as would like to have engine at normal height (without snagging the steering tack) to see if bonnet can be moved back a bit to close the gaps (without causing more hose interference) I guess this could be a multitude of things, but any pointers would be great please. Cheers, Dave

Hi Wondering about this (mounted near vertical). Never really looked at filter after running, though it is only about 1/4 (max) full generally. Squirts what I thought is a healthy amount out of fuel line when cranking. Any advice great thanks. Cheers, Dave

I do the rotor arm as well, though if pro's want to steal it then I assume they will have a rotor or two that fit the main types of dizzy

Thanks Karl It is very satisfying. I was brought up like that, other lads painting tatty chopper push bike frames etc (better shut up on the "when I was a lad") syndrome. Dave

Hi I understand these can rot from the inside. I can't see where water/debris can can get in?. Any tips on cleaning out for rust prevention/drilling drain holes etc please. Any tips great, thanks. Cheers, Dave

Cheers Pete Not looked for wire yet. Will aim for doing it that way. Is the refacing is so you can use feelers conventionally and accurately. Dave

Thanks everyone Pete. With regard to the paper clip idea. Does the wear platform have an open front in the recess , where the end of paper clip would push in?, if this makes sense, please. Cheers, Dave

Hi Karl Been following this thread with interest, as I prefer to reuse parts as much as pos and do things on a budget. Would you mind letting me know where you got the Aluminium Oxide Disk , it seems the biz. Also does that attach to a normal drill. Cheers, Dave

Thanks a lot everyone. Lots of food for thought there. The Bilt Hamber aerosol may be the way to go, as Its the side rail/body mounts/area around the rear spring that I'm concerned with getting to. I can brush on the rest of underside I think. Cheers, Dave

Thinking of buying a very compact compressor from Screwfix (have to smuggle it in the house and try and find a bit more room under one of the beds). It's 10 bar pressure, which I think would be good enough to spray thinned down Waxoil, with a paraffin gun attachment. Also wondering, would this be enough pressure to use a rattle gun to some effect?. Any help great please. Cheers, Dave

Defo in the standard antifreeze camp.

Thanks folks and thanks a lot Rich, for your offer of click thingy. At least I have opened up the possible tight gaps. In the past I appear to have identified the noisy ones with engine running and length of hose to ear and tother end close to valve, then closed it up until it feels the the same as others by rocking the rocker by hand. Will give that a go again for now, unless this is an bad way of doing it?. Cheers, Dave

Hi and thanks. Richard, I have no unleaded head conversion . Stopped using lead sub, as folks experience, suggests that on engines with some good miles on them, will survive with lead memory. Cheers, Dave

Hi . Thought I'd check clearance's today as stopped using lead substitute a while back. 3 were a bit tight. 1 exhaust, 2 inlet and a couple a bit big. I assumed that normal wear (not valve recession, from using unleaded) would show as the bigger gaps. Also never sure on how tight to do up the nuts. I think I may go unnecessarily tight, as take a bit to undo?. Don't know how much load the nuts take when running?. Any help great please. Cheers, Dave

Canleys have one for sale £100. Don't know it that's same one

Thanks I'll go for a bit wet is ok now. (no jokes thanks, "Matrons"). Dave

Hi. Does that fluid transfer also relate to Master Cylinders. Have replaced seals in the past because of a bit of fluid in the boots, thinking they are failing ?. Cheers, Dave

Cheers folks Pete. What sort of racket/type of noise would overstrocking the clutch make Dave

Hi, and thanks It has good oil pressure, though a bit of noise on first start of the day and decided not to worry about this. What's made me worry a bit was. After moving off one morning it made some noise and after a few miles I had to move off on a gradient twice and knocked a bit. Twice after just starting after a few of hours it made a bit of noise on same day. Drove it onto ramps to listen underneath and it made a hell of knocking (high revs and slipping clutch) Seems quiet underneath, even using screw driver when idling/some revs. Only other thing, I fitted a Landy bigger clutch M/C recently and at at around the same time , it makes a bit of a whine from a cold start that disappears with clutch pressure and when warmed up. Don't want the hassle of this work. Just want to drive it. Cheers, Dave

Cheers, Pete and Richard and John Hopefully looking to extend the engine life cheaply for a few more years if possible. I don't drive it hard. Pete. Can the engine raise until the bell housing touches the bulkhead?. Even then problematic?. Can't imagine how to refit oil pump with sump in semi position. Thanks, Dave

Hi folks Planning on dropping the Vitesse sump to replace main/big end shells and thrust washers. I was thinking it would be wise to measure the B E journals for tolerance/ovality if possible. If a B E cap was removed at bottom of stroke, then conrod/piston pushed up, high enough to measure all around journal with vernier/micrometer. Conrod could then be pulled back down to mate up. Would this be a useful/viable proposition do you think, please. Any help great please. Cheers, Dave

my Vitesse has one shim,each wishbone/chassis bracket on off side and tyre wear is normal. Nearside has two and is wearing outer edge of tyre more. also the top outer edge of this tyre is about 1/2" prouder to the wheel arch than tother (could be different body alignment, chassis twist, though nothing visually wrong on chassis and front and rear sections of main rails are showing level to each other . Haven't done camber check yet, but going off tyre wear I guess I could fit yet more shims to off side to correct any excessive positive camber, though, this seems excessive? Car runs in a straight line. Any help great would be great please. Cheers, Dave