trigolf
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Posts posted by trigolf
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Hi Doug,
Thanks for your reply. I've just got a reply from Powertrack Brakes. They actually produce the repair kits for Girling servos. Not cheap mind, but hasn't really gone up hugely since I last bought a kit in the 80's. Mine's done pretty well. It was s/h to start with 25 years ago and I rebuilt it before fitting to my Vitesse. But a routine check of fluid levels last weekend, prior to going for a run showed the master cylinder only half full! Fluid down the brake pedal told me the master cylinder seals were shot, confirmed when I took it apart. Having rebuilt and refitted that, I thought I'd remove the servo and give it a new lick of paint before refitting and bleeding. I'm glad I physically checked it before refitting, as it has a small hydraulic leak.
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Hi all,
Can anyone recommend a supplier of Girling Powerstop Servo repair kits ? Mine's leaking, so I need to refurb it. BTW I don't want to convert to a Lockheed servo.
Gav
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This is probably going to sound really daft - but as car was built from box of bits are the correct length dampers fitted to the correct location - i.e. to the inner wheel arch ?
Could the previous owner have possibly converted it to use the after market 'roto' brackets, which attach to the chassis and use shorter dampers? Have the the dampers have been replaced with the 'correct' for Mk3 spec longer dampers ?
Gav
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The same problem exists on the Vitesse when removing/refitting the headlamp bezels. I use a right angled screwdriver - it's double ended with a Phillips no 2 size on one end and a flat tip at the other. Makes it easy to get on the screw head square.
Gav
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2 hours ago, Iain T said:
I have a mk1 grille on my mk2 Vitesse, I think it looks great and as my car is far from original for me that's not an issue.
I'm with Adrian a stainless steel woven wire mesh grille would look good.
Iain
I too think the MK 1 original mesh grill looks better than the the Mk 2 type and retro fitted a brand new old stock Mk1 item to my Mk 2. It's an easy nut and bolt job and is reversable if desired. I don't think there's any real diffence in airflow between the two types. My car certainly doesn't run any hotter.
Gav
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Just doing some browsing, whilst I contemplate replacing all the rubber bits in my Vit fuel line and it seems that decent genuine quality ethanol proof fuel hose is in very short supply ? I know the club sell it and I have'nt contacted them yet, as I wanted some idea of price variations.
Gav
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I always jack the car up to take the pressure off the trunnion threads and dust seals on the top of the trunnions. That way you can pump the oil in much easier and make sure it comes out of the top of the trunnion body around the seal.
Gav
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I've had the old metal ones for years, but I never liked the way the angle iron edges press into the tyres. I got some wider one made out of reinforced plastic for my Golf, as the metal ones were too narrow. I was dubious about them initally, but they are incredibly strong, and about the same price as the trad metal style. They have a clever little built-in roller on the front edge that gets gripped by the tyre and stops them kicking out. They also stack neatly, which saves on garage space 😉
Gav
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I 've just checked one I fitted for last years MOT. Peering into it with my LED torch I could see evidence of a very small amount of grease, but not really enough to make it last, so out came the grease gun !
Gav
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2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
you have a big hole in the cap, so a large coarse tapper should move it
Pete
I use a large self tapper attached to slide hammer. it usually works.
Gav
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8 hours ago, Adrian Saunders said:
I should have been more specific. When the spring eye bolt is out and you lower the spring, does the spring eye hit the (solid) brake pipe to the wheel cylinder? There must be some loading of the spring even at full droop.
Adrian,
IIRC, the spring eye will hit the brake pipe at the wheel cylinder and as Non- Member says - there's next to no room to manouver the spring out.☹️
Gav
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34 minutes ago, badgerspitfire said:
Thanks guys. That's great info to have and gives me confidence to tackle the job when the parts arrive, hopefully Thursday.
While I'm doing so much bleeding of the system, is it worth trying the DOT 5 fluid (Automec) like what Rimmers sell? I've read conflicting reports on the internet. I was also just planning on changing it doing a massive bleed exercise, rather than much dismantling (unless I need to get inside the brake master cylinder to overhaul it - fingers crossed I don't). The car also pulls to the right on braking. Left caliper/disc cooler than the right side, so I'm guessing a problem front left. Going to change the caliper (and pads discs while I'm at it) and see what that brings. I've only got standard pads as replacement - should invest in a set of Mintex before going to that trouble?
PS. What happened to the car in the photo 😮!
Be aware, that there's two types of DOT 5 fluid, one is DOT 5 Silicon and one is not. If you decide to swap fluid types - if it were me - I would flush the entire system out with meths before refilling with Silicon.
Gav
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12 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
'Out' in mine this afternoon... out in the garage that is, sitting making vroom vroom noises. Does that count?
Sadly, that's the same as my situation at the moment. Vit stuck in the garage - arse in the air (oo-er missus!)- finishing off Roto - to CV Driveshaft conversion !
Gav
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That hub looks like it's on as far as it should go. The spline ends on the hub don't normally line up with with the end of the shaft splines when it's in final position. Is the hub still rocking about ? is there any wobble/end float when you grab the hub. ? If it's not, then it's probably on as far as possible.
Gav
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59 minutes ago, Mad4classics said:
Think I've got something similar?
Works well; has three differently cranked nozzles.
David
I've got one of those too. Inherited from Dad. I't's very good for syphoning petrol out of fuel tanks ( on my own car(s) of course !) with a piece of plastic fuel hose put on the nozzle into the filler pipe. Saves you getting a nasty gob full of petrol !
Gav
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18 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:
i would remove the over rider and raise the height of the bonnet by the slotted hinge straps that control the bonnet height.
Pete
Trouble with doing that Pete is that it'll probably ruin your carefully aligned panel gaps ! We all know how long it takes to get a half decent result..😉
Gav
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Hi Amanda,
Yes I had this problem when I fitted an Ali cover to my Vitesse. I think the problem is mainly is that unlike the original steel cover the Ali one does'nt have a groove in it for the gasket, which raises the height enough for it to just touch the bonnet. On mine it was just at the front edge, so I filed the fins down a little bit by putting an angle on them - 45 degrees. I took a little off at a time, and checked it for fouling by putting a bit of blu tak on it and looking for marks in it.
Gav
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This is probably a daft idea - but most, if not all modern car fuel tanks are made of plastic. Would it be possible to 3D print one ?.... I'll get me coat😕
Gav
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M, Derek
Ok you've convinced me. I'll drill and tap a hole for a bolt.
Gav
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Hi Nick,
Just crawled under car this a.m. to take some pics - some better quality than others, but car is up hard against wall on one side. Hopefully it'll give you an idea of pipe routing. As mentioned I replaced the original pipe with diff in situ - so it's not beautifully neat, trying to bend tight corners is not easy, but it does the job.
Gav
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Hi folks,
Whilst I'm halfway thorugh the CV driveshaft fit ( one side done) and old Rotoflex shaft removed on other side. I'm thinking about trying to change the diff oil again, using an oil suction gun. I'd previously tried to suck it out thorough the filler hole and failed miserably, despite getting the diff warm. I couldn't get the flexi pipe far enough into the case. So - I was thinking about pulling out the accessible diff output drive shaft and putting the suction pipe in through there and trying again. Do you think it's worth it a try ?
Gav
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On 06/05/2020 at 09:11, Nick Jones said:
Can’t find a diagram that differentiates between mk 1 and mk 2? All the swing axle cars have that pipe running along the lower rear x- member with the flexi-hoses going to the wheels behind the axles.
Roto cars have the hoses well ahead of the axles with special extensions on the radius arm brackets to keep them away from the Roto couplings. For this reason the cross-pipe stays forward of the axle, though not sure what the “official” route is on a Vitesse.....
Nick
Nick,
If you can wait until tomorrow - I'll post a pic, as I'm halfway through the CV shaft fit, so the car's up on stands. I do recall replacing the pipe, years ago, with the diff in situ. It's a squeeze ,but possible.
Gav
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7 hours ago, dave.vitesse said:
Oil leaks mainly come from the, also Mk1 pushrod tubes, the oil feed between the block and the head. As far as the oil feed leaks are concerned then a very small amount of sealer on the gasket either of the feed hole normally resolves the problem. From my experience this also applies to the small four cylinder engines. Having owned two new Triumphs this problem wasn't present and would only appear after an engine rebuild. Did the factory use a sealer around the feed hole, probably, some I have talked too who were involved say yes.
Dave
If I recall correctly , John Kipping used to recommend putting a small smear of sealant around the oil feed hole from block to head, when replacing the head gasket.
Gav
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Hi Ian,
Yes, one side done. I 've now started the other side. Whilst doing it, I'm also swapping the rear shocks for the new ones - another part that's been sat on the shelf for 3 years! Yesterday it took me the best part of two hours to remove the old shock top mounting bolt .The nut came undone easily and the bolt turned in the bush and the bush turned in the shock eye. But could I get the bolt out of the polybush - no chance ! I couldn't believe that the bolt had 'seized' to the polybush somehow. There's not much room in the spring tunnel to try and push the bolt out of the top shock bracket. So after dousing it in WD40/Plus gas, and going out for a walk to allow my temper level to return to normal, it finally came out after much heaving and hauling on pry bars etc to push it out. The bolt was in good condition, as was the bush, so I'm puzzled why it was such a bugger to get out ! Grrrrr !😠
Girling Powerstop Servo repair kit
in Braking System
Posted
Hi Ian,
Thanks for the tip. I think I'll go with Powertracks kit ( £118.00+vat) and do it myself.
Gav