trigolf
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Posts posted by trigolf
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Well I've never used a ramp. The gearbox will come out from inside the car. You leave the engine in situ. Just support the back of the engine with a block of wood and Jack.
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How about spraying the thread with aerosol freezer spray. It might help the plus gas penetrate?
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If it was me, I would wedge the clutch pedal down too. Not sure about Spit, but my Vitesse clutch siezes if left unwedged or not used regularly over winter.
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Wagger,
As previously explained, I had the same problem years ago, which was entirely of my own making. I measured the fitted length of the prop (accurately I thought, ha !). Ordered bespoke prop through Canleys. Prop arrives - bugger too short ! See pics.
So Dave supplied a longer O/D output flange. Problem solved.
Gav
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You need a longer gbox flange. I had this problem with my conversion to a jtype od and HD prop, which was supplied as specified measured fitted length ( by me incorrectly, ahem). Swapping for a slightly longer output flange brought the sliding joint back to mid posn. I'm not sure if gbox and od flanges are interchangeable, but worth a try?
Gav
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If it's been in a bash it's just possible its had new boot riggers welded on to the remains of the previous welds so increasing the chassis length slightly? Just a thought.
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7 hours ago, dougbgt6 said:
Ian,
My old MOT man, now retired, was an apprentice at a Triumph dealership, he looked forward to testing my car and re-living his yoof. One of his tasks was to fit overdrives, they weren't fitted at the factory and came with the car as a separate kit. His first one took him a week, but when he got better at it he could do two a day. So, yes, you may be right.
Doug
Hope he did a better job than the dealer who fitted mine. Whoever did it just hacked slots into the prop tunnel and peeled it back to fit the overdrive and then bent the tunnel back - he didnt bother cutting the tunnel neatly and fitting a cover plate!
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I replaced mine with a sheet of plastic cut out of the side of an old plastic drum. The plastic was the same thickness as the old Mill board. It's flexible too so you can bend it to shape. I stapled the handbrake gaiter to it as per original.
Gav
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Correct ! They strong enough to pull the spacer out, but not stick to the splines.
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I recently had to revisit one of my CV shafts endfloat setting - don't ask ! I wanted to avoid taking the whole shaft off the car, as that involves slackening the transverse spring to let the inner end of the shaft pass the spring leave clamp bolt and then crawling underneath again to disconnect the driveshaft at the diff. I needed to change the 'distance' piece (spacer). Of course it's buried inside the inner bearing race when in situ. So I ordered 10x small neodymium magnets for £10.00 sellotaped them together and managed to 'fish' it out. See pic.
Gav
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True, but with these diffs now in excess of 40 yrs old and having been dismantled/ reassembled several times probably. Every little helps as they say...
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I put a smear of blue hylomar on the faces before bolting up the shafts. I've never understood why Triumph never fitted a gasket, particularly as most Triumph diffs are as oil tight as the Torey Canyon!
Gav
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17 hours ago, NonMember said:
With the battery positive disconnected but the earth still there, you could drop a spanner on the battery and, if unlucky, have it land on both the battery's positive terminal and the bodywork. This forms a dead short from battery +ve, through the spanner, then the body, then the earth strap, to the battery negative. Shorted battery, huge current, bang!
My late father had a one ended (previously 2 ended) spanner that a workmate had dropped across the batt terminals of an aircraft 'Trolley Accumulator' - basically a bank of 100AH batts in a trolley to start a/c on the ground. When the spanner shorted the batt out there was indeed a huge bang and one end of the spanner basically vapourised ! 😕
Gav
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Like Pimp my Vit has done, I connected the electric pump to the spare 'accessory' terminal on the ignition switch and fitted an inline fuse of suitable rating. I've used a trad lucas toggIe switch for the pump mounted on a small bracket under the dash. I decided to mount the pump inside the bulkhead rather than engine side. Its then more convenient to divert the pipework from the old pump. Although I'm not obsessed with originality, it keeps the bulkhead looking tidier, at the small expense of hearing the pump motor more readily! The original pump wiper switch still works ok.
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My Vitesse DHC with standard exhaust and very whiny diff sounds like a Lancaster on take off..
Gav
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3 hours ago, RogerH said:
Where about's do you live. If local to West London LHR airport I could weld it for you.
Roger
A very kind offer, thanks Roger- but I live in Christchurch, Dorset. I need to dismantle the brakes first anyway.
Gav
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Ok. I've given it some thought and think the jury's verdict is sound ! I'll have to see if I can persuade my work colleague to pop round with his mig welder.😕
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14 hours ago, Badwolf said:
Gav - I have done a wide range of tests with panel adhesive but not tried that one. I beleive that one of the JB Weld range might be suitable. It gets good reviews but I have not tried that either. What I have used, set like rock. My own test results are here...
Ok,
Thanks Badwolf - looks like JB Weld could do the trick.
Gav
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Evening all.
I'd like to repair the wear groove in the brake backplate, caused by the handbrake lever pin, under the brake cylinder.
I don't have access to a welder, to fill the groove with weld. Has anyone successfully repaired the same wear with a steel 'putty'.
I'm thinking of trying Steel Stik. It seems to get very good reviews ?
Gav
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11 minutes ago, Mathew said:
Its heavy and awkward more so with the overdrive.
It's definitely do'able as one unit (gb+od). Done it a few times myself. I 've found taking passenger seat out helps - gives a bit more room to wrestle it out through that side. It's easier still if you have a mate -one person underneath, as Clive says, managing trolley jack under the box and one person inside doing the hauling about. I'ts a heavy old bas...d !
Gav
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On 14/06/2021 at 09:25, Ian Foster said:
Unusual to see a white chassis on a blue car, would be interesting to know why.
Ian,
IIRC, the Le Mans Spitfires were fitted with white chassis, as this makes spotting any fatigue cracks easier.
Gav
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Many years ago,one of my radius arm brackets was mullerered at the shock attachment end. I gave up trying to get it out and took it to a local garage. They had to use a gas axe and extreme violence to get it out! Nowadays I wonder if one of those induction coil gizmo's would work. Theyseem to have pretty impressive abilities.
Gav.
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Well, took the Vit out for a 60 mile run today - first trip out in ages. Managed to avoid all the holiday traffic hot spots and a pleasant run out in the countryside. Spotted 2 x TR6, 2 x A/H Healeys, 2 x MGB's , 1 x Capri MK1, 1 x Stag and 2 x Lancia Monte Carlo's.
Wht was was even better, was that on returning home, I didn't smell faintly of petrol - for the first time in ages !
All that work refurbing the Strombergs was obviously worth it.
Gav
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14 minutes ago, JohnD said:
"Pure red diesel"? That for agriculture isn't it? Why should Triumph be using it (legally?)?
You tease us with your story! Please tell more! Why were you "cleaning up the site"? What did you find?
Did Ferguson do a diesel version of the Grey Fergie ?
Now going to look at a vitesse based gentry
in General
Posted
Not sure what GT6 tuning state means? Donor Vit was a 2L Mk 1. Mk 1 Vit lump exactly the same as Mk 1 GT6. As Clive ponders- has it been ' tuned' to Stage 1, or 2 by SAH ?