trigolf
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Posts posted by trigolf
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I've just fitted ,what I consider as well made LEDs, to my side and brake lights, on the understanding that the ruling only applied to converting Tungsten Headlamps to LED. This is to do with the lens pattern of trad headlights. The bloody DVSA are moving the goalposts already !
Gav
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I used to have this symptom with my Vitesse. The problem has disappeared after swapping to CV driveshafts. I've wondered if it might be the Rotoflex couplings reacting to the torque as the rear of the car lifts slightly in reverse, rather than squatting down in forward gear?
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Well, before I'd think of replacing the manual pump with an electric one, I'd want to check the existing pump is failing. Have you checked the pump output into a jam jar or similar?
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1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said:
so there the old nutshell if its looks the same why bother ???
we all need something to play with but whats the upshot of all this ??
Pete,
The reason I'm swapping from tungsten to LED's (where legal) is to reduce the load on the 51 yr old loom. Every little helps - as they say. Besides which - a led sidelight bulb costs £2.32 - not much more than a trad tungsten bulb..
Gav
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11 hours ago, rulloyd said:
Could it be a problem with the servo hydraulics? ( I have a Powerstop servo which I also rebuilt, new seals). Tempted to bypass to make sure. No leaks at all.
I also had the soft pedal problem, after rebuilding my Powerstop Servo. I traced the fault to the output union, which was weeping around the copper sealing washer, but so slightly, it was very hard to see unless you really peered at it. With the union 'nipped up' the fault cleared.
Gav
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Colin,
I've modded my lights to reinstate the central divider as you have done. We were fresh out of Hot Chocolate tins, so had to use some old offcut of galvanized tin. Anyway, I've fitted the Warm White Leds ( From Classic Car LEDS ) and attached pics of trad bulb versus LED. With MK 1 eyeball, I can't tell the difference, so it still looks 'trad'.
Gav
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3 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
Ok, it was a simple challenge... in fact the biggest challenge was finding the metal. As it doesn't need to be secured by the sidelight housing, it doesn't need that first angle so can be simply right-angled to the base. Must go do the other one now..
Nice job Colin,
I'm still trying to find a suitable bit of 'tin'' to do the same. I'm fitting Warm White sidelights. But, unlike your 'test' LED, the ones' I've ordered have led arrays on the the side of the bulb as well as the end, so I expect a more comparable light spread similar to a tungsten bulb.
Gav
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James,
If you're looking for a matching set of 4.5J wheels, PM me, I might be able to help.
Gav
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35 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:
One thing I have confirmed, though... I don't like the LED sidelight...
Coiln,
Looks to me like you 've got a 6000K LED, hence very cool white light. I think you need Warm White 3000K
Gav
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19 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
'm just in the process of doing exactly that, cutting and shaping the lid of a biscuit tin... I'll glue mine in with Tigerseal. I'm just glad I have an old version to use as a guide.
Colin,
For the benefit of the jury, pics with 'divider' and without. The effect is more noticeable to the eye than my phone camera, especially from an oblique angle. So I think it's worth modding them..
Cue the debate..........😄
Gav
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Evening all,
So today I decided to fit the replacement sidelights that I bought about 10 yrs ago. The original ones were pretty rusty on the back and past their best. Then I noticed the subtle difference in the internal config compared with the original one. As you can see, the new one has no internal divider to stop light spill from the sidelight mixing with the indicator and vice versa. Lucas obviously thought it necessary on the original, so now I'm going to have to make some and glue then in. Grrr...
Gav
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If they are late 1500 Spit wheels they should be marked 5J x 13" on front face. This means they are 5" wide by 13" diameter. Mk4 Spit and very early 1500 ( I believe) Spit wheels were 4.5J x 13" . They are interchangeable as a straight swap BUT you must have the same width rims fitted all round.
The difference in the Dunlop number is possibly different batch/factory ?
Gav
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Mine is angled down towards the chassis rail too, for same reason. It's currently got a Halfords HOF 200 filter on it which looks the same length as yours, but it's not fouling the brake 4 way union.
Gav
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Hi Chris,
Grill measurements are : size of hole = 8mm, flat thickness of grill pressing = 1.5mm, the pressed in bars across the front are 8mm deep, as near as I can measure. It's too b*****y cold to hang around in the garage !
Gav
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18 hours ago, clive said:
Not the filters fault, it has the wrong size thread https://catalog.mann-filter.com/EU/eng/catalog/MANN-FILTER Katalog Europa/Oil Filter/W 713~28 says it is 13/16 thread, bigger than the correct 3/4UNF.
The wix is indeed a 3/4 thread filter. Almost any ford, and many VW etc filters will work.
This might have been done before - but, if not, why not have an oil filter cross reference 'look up' table on the Forum pages somewhere ?
Gav
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The replacement felt strip I ordered from Canleys a few years back came with a rubber backing. So pull out the old metal backed strips after drilling the fixing brackets out first. I seem to recall using small nuts and bolts to fix brackets back on. Then glue strip back in to retaining channel. I used EVO stick.
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36 minutes ago, dougbgt6 said:
Just looked for Fiona on the interweb, research, you understand
Here she is with FU2 not at this point a roller, but what is it?
Doug
Confirmed. It's a late E type - probably 5.3 L, V12 variant.
Gav
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Without starting the Green Stuff debate again, I'm intrigued....
Many years ago at Stafford I bought a set of EBC Green Stuff Kevlar pads from Canleys stall. I put them in the loft,for when finally needed, and forgot all about them.
I'm planning to replace the front pads soon, but have got some Mintex 1144's to go on as I don't want the pain that some people have gone thorough with rubbish brakes !
Question - If Green Stuff pads are that bad, how come they're still sold by reputable specialists, such as Canleys etc ?
Gav
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18 hours ago, clive said:
You can lower the suspension, using a lowering block under the spring.
Clive, IIRC, John Kipping didn't recommend using a lowering block on the mk 2 rotoflex suspension as it places an extra strain on the donuts?
Gav
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Ok, not an owner I think, but Michael Caine drives one in Educating Rita.
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If that's a genuine sales brochure, has anyone spotted the Triumph 2000 Mk 2 wheel trims? 😕
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Those shocks are correctly mounted for a Rotoflex ĢT6. It's not a conversion.
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Well maybe I don't understand what Neil means. Surely if you drill through the rear turret and through the floor the nut on the underside of the floor will be trying to pull up against a sloping surface in relation to the bolt?
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8 minutes ago, VixenPPP said:
What about drilling through the floor ?
If you drilled thorough the turret and through the floor you could'nt tighten a nut/washer on the underside as the floor slopes. Souns like you'll have to repair the turrets and fit new caged/nuts
Gav
Here she is with FU2 not at this point a roller, but what is it?
LED Lamps Illegal on Classic's
in Electrical System
Posted
I've bought LEDs for the side and brake lights from Classic Car LEDs. Their website says that all their LEDs are CE approved. I'll keep the receipt in case of an argument with my MOT Tester, though I'm sure he won't get excited over it....
Gav