trigolf
-
Posts
646 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
4
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Events
Posts posted by trigolf
-
-
Can't help with a spare item I'm afraid - but how about making one ? It's only hardboard with three or four rubber feet cut to fit inside the the wheel rim.
Gav
-
1
-
-
4 hours ago, Colin Lindsay said:
You could always replace it with a solid type, no sliding joint to worry about. 1200 props are a straight fit.
Bin it and fit a solid one as Colin says. We had same vibration prob on our 13/60 and got a solid type from a 1200 in the local scrapper
( those were that days). Strap rhymes with crap for a reason!
Gav.
-
Pete, checked float heights @ 18 mm. The floats are the right way up. I've also checked that fuel pressure is in spec - which it is. I'm going to try an extra thin washer under the needle valve and set to 18 mm. Thanks for the link to buckeye. I'll have a look.
-
Afternoon all,
i've been having problems trying to make my carbs fuel 'tight'. Long story short - both carbs have been leaking from the throats/overflow for some time. I've fitted new genuine needle valves, jet o rings and gaskets etc. I've checked the float height level several times now and they look fine to me. I can find no trace of Pete's pet hate -rubber pipe slivers- in either needle valve or carb innards, or anywhere!
I see in the workshop manual, in the 'setting float height' section that, ...'an additional thin washer under the needle valve will lower the fuel level'
I can understand this statement - but what float height do you set, if you do this ? I'm confused !
-
1 hour ago, johny said:
just replaced mine (see other thread) and they each came with two gaskets for installation in the box. I suppose you have to buy the box to carb ones separately but mine were good enough for reuse...
Yep. Canleys GT6 parts drawing show gaskets each side of filters in the box plus box to carbs.
Gav
-
Hmm. That nyloc looks to be the correct size with Mk 1 eyeball. Not good if nylon is not engaging with shaft threads at all! How do the threads look on the shaft ? On my old shafts the last two threads weren't fully formed - poss damaged by a BL chimp many years ago, before I got the car, during a donut / wheel bearing replacement!
Gav
-
I wonder if your battery is dying and doesn't like the extra load when trying to crank over a cold engine with thick oil etc.
-
I find jacking the front up- & putting on an axle stand, to get the weight off, helps get the oil in.
Gav
-
29 minutes ago, griffipaul said:
Thanks Nick , interesting. Important to understand why something is happening before attempting to fix it. Initial investigation centred on suspect parts.
Could this have been compounded by the fact that the two times I have had the hub off I did not mark the splines and replaced in a diferent orientation.
Pete found stake nuts online but no evidence to say they are unf . Thanks for looking anyway ,
CDD CV shafts use a stake nut but do not advertise spares.
I have the CV shafts conversion. The staked hub nuts are different size and, I think, metric thread to fit CV shaft, so not compatible.
Gav
-
I always thought the correct spec nylon was not particularly well located as the threads aren't fully formed to the end of the shaft. Couple that with 50 yrs old shafts and worn threads is not ideal. I've got a vague memory that Jaguar spec the same spec nut for one of the classic Jags - XK120 ?
Gav
-
I recently bought a Weber Synchrometer from an online motor sport shop. Can't remember who. Excellent piece of kit. They normally come with the rubber cone sized for Weber carb thoats. You need to buy extra cones suitable for SU/ Strombergs and swap them.
Gav
-
So the debate rolls on..
Out of curiosity, I did a check of exhaust manifold nuts with three major Triumph suppliers. They all list brass nuts for exhaust manifolds. Back in the day I recall going into the local BL dealer and getting the same, as listed for the exhaust manifold.
-
I stand to be corrected, but I always thought the studs fitted to the exhaust manifold for the downpipe were UNC thread and fitted with brass UNC nuts. They are on my Vit.
Gav
-
If Colin's current estimate of 4.5 - 5K TSSC members is fairly accurate, then that's a bit of an eye opener. IIRC membership peaked at about 14K in the early 90's. Trying to encourage modern youth to take an interest in our cars, beyond just walking past them at shows is the challenge. After all, as has been said many times down the years - " We are merely custodians" 😕
Gav
-
Hi Johnny. I just dug out the replacement CD150 filters that I bought for my Vit more than a year ago. Funnily enough, I bought them from MEV Spares too. Like yours they have no spacer tubes! I ended up cutting up my old Fram filters and gluing them in to the new ones. I think that the vast majority of classic car owners have them as second cars now and so would be prepared to pay slightly more for a quality replacement. So I don't think the old argument from suppliers -about how much owners are willing to pay stacks up now..😕
Gav
-
I expect you're aready aware - but the Rotoflex drive couplings are the same as fitted to Vitesse Mk 2 and GT6 Mk 2 and early GT6 mk 3.
Gav
-
I replaced the knackered cardboard bit with a piece cut out of the side of a 10L plastic container. The plastic is thick enough to be strong but also curves around the transmission tunnel.
Gav
-
2
-
1
-
-
On 26/03/2021 at 18:17, clive said:
Koni Part Number: 80-1389
So appears to be correct for non-rotoflex....
Clive's right I think, some years ago I bought these as part of the bracket conversion kit - from the club I think ? Although they seem to have been ok on my Mk 2 Vit, I 've suspected that they were slight too long for some time. So recently I bought GAZ shocks from the Club which are the correct fitted length for rotoflex setup.
You will see the comparison in open and closed lengths in the pics. As I've converted the car to CV shafts and dont need to clear the donut, I'm going to refit the Konis. Clive assures me they will be the correct length when to the MK1 top chassis mount - and do away with bracket extens.
Gav
-
1
-
-
I can't comment on a suitably rated solar panel for the garage roof as suggested. But, with Mains supply available in my garage - I have used an Accumate Batt conditioner for years - it's been 100% reliable. I'm still using a ten year old Batt on the Vit, having 'conditioned' it from purchase date.
Gav
-
1
-
-
I think Clive will be along soon. I think he said you can reuse normal (standard) length rear shocks that mount off the original chassis mount if using CV shafts.
-
1
-
-
22 hours ago, daverclasper said:
Not sure (from memory?) if you need all the parts in a general service kit, as in, regarding the actual wear you have on a component,
Sure, tired rubbers, etc, you need.
Eg, I think (from?) memory the kits often have the butterfly discs, that I understand aren't often worn?.
I sorted mine out, to a reliable level, fairly cheaply with just a few bits.
PS. Maybe shouldn't be offering these opinions, even if there ok, as our suppliers may struggle?.
Well, opened up the rear carb today - diaphram is still good, but O rings are naff - problem is leaking from the carb throat and jet holder. Float height looks ok(and not leaking), so I'm wondering about the needle valve seating. Anyway - I think I know what I'll need and where to go. Thanks all.
-
Just now, Iain T said:
Hi Gav
Go to Burlen Services for all Stromberg parts.
Iain
Hi Ian,
Yes, I used Burlen many years ago, but just wondering if I can get the same quality elsewhere for cheaper !
Gav
-
Evening all,
I'm looking for a service kit for my Vitesse. I see James Paddock do one at a competitive price, but I'm wondering about the quality of the diaphram included ? I've seen cheap ones at autojumbles that are almost rigid, rather than nice and flexible. Anyone bought one from them recently ?
Gav
-
On 25/02/2021 at 17:16, Gary Flinn said:
SW Classics was a Restoration company run by Stan Walters in the Devon area, he retired several years ago I believe.
They had an excellent reputation and restored some Lovely Vitesse's, including a Laurel Green Mk2 Convertible for Practical Classics Magazine back in the 1990's.
I think they also restored a TR6 for the same magazine
I've added a couple of links to a Vitesse 6 Saloon (Low Mileage) and a very early Convertible that are currently for sale on E-Bay to my original post.
The Saloon looks very straight indeed but needs work, currently the bidding is at around £5.5K
Stan Walters restored my Vitesse bodywork way back in the mid-eighties, including dip galvanizing the chassis. He had a very good sprayer working for him, a young lad, but very good. I was very happy with his work.
Gav
Interior bits wanted please
in Parts Wanted
Posted
I've got both front seats from a 13/60 - matador red. They are very rough (been in storage for years) and reluctant to throw them in a skip. They would need new foams and diaphragms. But the frames are good. You can have them for free if you collect from Christchurch, Dorset.
Gav