Clutch Arm and Thrust Bearing

[Pettifordo]

I was looking for some advice about how to fit the clutch fork using the tolerance ring and pin - is it as simple as popping in the TR and then tapping the pin in from the top ?

Also how do you replace the Thrust Bearing (I’ve never done that job).

it also seems like the rod that fits into the clutch cylinder can be adjusted - how can I tell the right length for this ?

Note - if this question seems strange, I purchased the car already taken apart, so I’m putting stuff back together without having seen what it was like before - I have some resto guides and Hayes but they often aren’t very clear and seem to assume you took it apart in the first place 🤣🤣🤣

[Stratton Jimmer]

Well, the release bearing pushes on to the clutch release arm. Have a look at the Canley drawings. You find the CRB etc as part of the gearbox drawing, not the clutch. 

https://www.canleyclassics.com/?catalogue=triumph-herald-13/60&diagram=triumph-herald-13/60-gearbox

[Pete Lewis]

On the 4 cyl herald/spit clutch 

you tap the tol ring into the arm then insert the pin from outside ( best get a pin with a head on so it cannot get dropped in the road when the ring fails )

the slave pushrod is not normally adjustable  its a fixed length     p no.  109182   so there is enough travel inside the slave to accomodate the wear of the disc,   the rod is available  from many .

as the disc wears the diapragm fingers move the throwout rearwards and  the rod moves further into the slave 

so its length needs to allow enough forward travel to operate the clutch and have a  spare travel  rearwards  to use as wear takes place 

Pete

[Colin Lindsay]

The last few Heralds I've done, the tolerance (crinkly) ring pushes down into the release arm from above, the bronze bushes go into the bellhousing on the inside, above and below the arm facing outwards, the arm slots in between those and the pin is pushed down through from above. As Pete says get an uprated one with a head that can't drop right through.

On the arm itself there are two roll-pins, one each side - drive these through, very carefully so as not to widen or distort the holes they sit in, I use the end of a rivet, and once removed this will allow the clips to be pressed outwards so freeing up the bearing carrier. They slide out, the slot is not for a screwdriver but that often confuses!

  

Once the carrier is out, the bearing can be pulled off very easily with a bearing puller, or else drift a suitable socket down the inside to push the carrier off. The new bearing slides on with a little bit of force, push the side clips into the holes to keep the carrier in place and hammer the roll pins in again. Slide the bearing and arm over the input shaft and drop the pin to keep the arm in place. Make sure the bearing pulls in and out freely on the shaft before fitting the gearbox to the engine again.

 

[Pettifordo]

Thanks everyone