Spitfire front flexible hose

[Jonah]

While investigating stiff steering, and changing trunnion rubber seals, I’ve noticed that the offside flexible brake hose rubs against the tyre on steering lock.

could anyone please tell me if the hose is incorrectly fitted?

best Julian 

[Colin Lindsay]

15 minutes ago, Jonah said:

could anyone please tell me if the hose is incorrectly fitted?

best Julian 

Yes, it is. The bracket at the top of the turret is bent downwards; it should be horizontal with the flexible pipe pointing down and the solid pipe attached on top. Your solid pipe goes in under rather than on top.

I was looking for a photo to demonstrate; found one:

 

 

 

Edited May 8, 2023 by Colin Lindsay

[Jonah]

Thanks Colin i had a feeling it was wrong 

[GrahamB]

Also the parts catalogue clearly illustrates the correct configuration with the support bracket 132365 mounted horizontally rather than vertically.

[Jonah]

Thanks Graham, the job list just gets bigger!

[GrahamB]

With careful bending of the metal brake pipe 309700 you should be able to re-orientate the connector so that it points vertically downwards.  I replaced this pipe and found it difficult as it runs under the engine so I try to avoid replacement if possible. ( It would be easy if you first removed the engine!!) The photo was of the off-side wheel, is the near-side the same?

[johny]

I wonder if that existing copper pipe is going to be long enough to follow the correct route because, as in the photo, it should come across the chassis cross member, then up the edge of the suspension turret and across to the connection plate. At the moment it looks to come straight across diagonally and that maybe why it was installed that way....

[Jonah]

This is a pic of the other side, which I’m hoping is ok. I can see where the pipe goes across. I was thinking that if I couldn’t reshape the offside pipe I’d be able to splice in a new piece. Is that feasible?

[johny]

Yes that looks much better although is the pipe to hose mounting plate pretty much horizontal as it should be? Copper pipe is pretty maleable so you should be able to reform the other side to the correct shape as long as its long enough and it should be if it came in a pre-made kit.

If not I wouldnt recommend splicing as you would need a pipe end forming tool plus then have two extra possible leak points...

[Jonah]

looking at the pipe running across to the o/s connection it runs through the turret and then  along the cross member. There are a few twists and turns in the pipe to get through the turret which is limiting my ability to reshape at the other end. The pipe also ran through the turret on the o/s

should the pipe just run around the outside of the turrets or go through them?

Hope this makes sense

Julian 

[Colin Lindsay]

The pipe follows the shape of the turret and should actually be clipped to the large weld of the turret; I'll post a couple of photos of my Herald Estate but the pipes take the same route. For the front pipe which goes across the chassis you can to a certain extent preshape it then fit it from the front, but it maybe more awkward in your car when all's assembled. I measured mine and bent it to a rectangular C shape, slid it under the turrets, then bent it behind them as required; but it's fiddly on the driver's side where it's the longest end and needs gently bend / fed round the bodywork until it's safe to finally shape it without kinking. The passenger side is quite short, just to the joint so much easier.

  

 

[Josef]

3 hours ago, Jonah said:

should the pipe just run around the outside of the turrets or go through them?

Colin’s photos show this nicely, but to be explicit the o/s pipe should go under and not through the suspension turret.

[Jonah]

Thank you both, given that my pipe is so wrong it might be worth me buying a replacement to shape properly, do you know if it’s possible to buy just the one pipe as opposed to a kit 

I don’t have the tools  to make my own pipe

[GrahamB]

I bought the single pipe from Canley's for a few pounds; others probably can supply. You do not have to buy the whole kit, the price of which varies tremendously from different suppliers.  The pipe came as a loose coil with the appropriate fittings attached.  You then have to thread the pipe under the engine and around the suspension, bending it to the appropriate shape as you go.  As I mentioned earlier, not the simplest of tasks to make a neat job.

[Colin Lindsay]

38 minutes ago, Josef said:

Colin’s photos show this nicely, but to be explicit the o/s pipe should go under and not through the suspension turret.

Neither of those go through; both under.

[Josef]

15 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Neither of those go through; both under.

Yes. I was posting for the avoidance of doubt on the OP’s part

[johny]

29 minutes ago, Colin Lindsay said:

Neither of those go through; both under.

Im confused now as the manual and that parts diagram seem to show the pipe goes from the 4 way connector, under the LH turret, across the chassis and then up the RH turret without going under it but held in place on its edge using the clip 137048 shown....

[Colin Lindsay]

Driver's side:

That's the way I made them, one a mirror image of the other in the earlier NS / passenger side photo. I may be wrong, but it's the safest route for the pipe, it doesn't come near anything that moves, and it's still clipped to the rearmost flange, same as the other side.

 

[johny]

Yes dont suppose it matters too much but if you buy pipes premade I bet they will be pretty tight for length so their installation route might be important...

[Jonah]

I think that’s the problem I’m having Johny with this pre made pipe, it’s pretty tight on length, if I had the tools to make a longer pipe Im sure I could go Colin’s route but I’m not sure this one will make it, or perhaps any pre formed pipe…..or maybe it’s me

just finished wrestling the pipe out, you were right Graham it’s a bugger to make a neat job

[Peter Truman]

I did a body off resto on my Vitesse but with engine and gearbox left insitu, the resto incorporated Automec copper brake pipe I was duly told copper pipe isn't permitted in brake lines in Australia (Aus Design Rules) ie fatigue. Solution was steel bundy pipes made up to the Automec lengths, bundy is a lot harder to bend and trying to fit that long pipe from the LH chassis leg under the engine to RH chassis leg then up the RH Turrent was impossible with engine fitted, the solution was to cut the pipe under the engine and fit a specially thin double female barrel nipple with flared pipe each end, it was a long and torturous job tightening that joint under an engine which has an indent in the sump to accommodate the steering rack so space is at a premium ie half a flat turn at a time on the barrel nipple and several attempts to make the joint leak proof! That was 20 years ago all still good, the engine is still insitu never removed!

[Jonah]

Thank you Peter that gives me hope that a copper or unifier pipe over here will be an easier prospect

[Josef]

The brake pipe flaring tools on the cheaper end of the market will do copper, and just about kunifer. I’m not even sure the usual suspects will sell an individual brake line rather than a set. So probably worth thinking about just getting the tools and some line. The fittings off the existing one will most likely be reusable. 

[GrahamB]

36 minutes ago, Josef said:

I’m not even sure the usual suspects will sell an individual brake line rather than a set.

Canley's and James Paddock both sell the individual pipe for less than £10.

[Josef]

50 minutes ago, GrahamB said:

Canley's and James Paddock both sell the individual pipe for less than £10.

I had bought individual pipes from canley, but thought I had seen on here they’d stopped selling them.