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Peter Truman

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Everything posted by Peter Truman

  1. Third last pic I was trying to work out how you'd got a tyre on the inside of the suspension turrent & under the carb, then realised you had shiny S/S heat shields reflecting the image! well it is 7AM here.
  2. We all have them, it's amazing when you drop something you see it hit the floor but then its travels are magical, a good magnet on a stick generally works BUT sometimes there just gone forever! Magic!!
  3. Good to hear the cars nearly there and your back from a slight misfire, I really enjoy sharing the journey, keep the updates coming. As Steve says it's good to hear there's still some classic restorers who provide that extra service for us enthusiasts.
  4. John here's some decent pic's of the Aus AMI 12/50 Coupe, I've posted it previously but added here for your record, I think a handsome looking car the Vitesse bonnet definitely sets the car off. From memory AMI had to source 20% of the car locally to get import tax credits so such things as exhausts , electrics (Lucas Aus), interior trim, glass, brakes (PBR), filters, chrome bumper covers etc were supplied by local manufacturers I'll send the AMI article direct separately. Peter T
  5. Nick you used a space frame rear set up attached to the Spit chassis, I have a Spit chassis in my garage, all straight and non rusty which was modified by a development engineer at GM Holden for racing I believe it was to use coil over shocker suspension with a Lotus Europa lower wishbone/linkage set up, attached is a pic of a Europa set up, light weight but also very flimsy. The chassis also came with a box of various sized and ended rose joints. Below are a couple of photos of the extra brackets fitted, I was going to cut them off and convert to a standard chassis Spitfire set up, though I thought I might leave the cross chassis box section stiffening (RHS of first photo).
  6. Re old tyres agree fully there’s been a few times where club members have had tyre failures on club runs/trips and the tyres have blebs on them or cracked in the walls. Some wealthy members who do all the maintenance and whiz bangs but for some reason if the tread looksOK won’t change the tyres. on a club 2week trip to Tasmania one member had a failure wall cracks he was only going to replace the one tyre I threatened him with cancelling his club permitted vehicle ie cheaper limited use registration which is permitted with club authority, unless he replaced them all! It was a bit chilly for a few days but his wife thanked me! I’d rather use cheap Chinese tyres than old P’s or M’s. having said that it’s not an issue I get my M’s free, sons annual freebie. Trouble now is they don’t make my preferred 165/75/13 and I really don’t want to go 175/70/13 I know plenty do but I just think it’s too much esp with the 4.5 in rims on one car all others 5 in or larger.
  7. Question how frequent does a failure occur on a well maintained car and are failures more frequent on say a GT6 or Vitesse Mk2 whereat full lock and hitting the throttle will put the max shear on the upright/trunnions. I think your both right to a point, but sometimes it’s just down to the metal fatigue or a manufacture fault that takes years to show up, what about stub axle failures they seem more prevelant!
  8. Here's some info on AMI Aussie Triumph Heralds, note Aust 12/50's Coupe & Saloon had the Vitesse 1600 bonnet. If interested I'll post separately the article I wrote on AMI & Spitfire production for the Courier
  9. Quite an achievement, as you say goes like stink, and presumably has the handling to suit looking at the stance, I wouldn't know where to start such a project, from a namesake well done. It's taking me all my time to think about converting my Vitesse to CV drive shafts!
  10. Heralds (1200, 12/50), Spits (Mks 1,2,3) and Saloons (both Mk1 & Mk2) were CKD here in Aus by AMI (Aust Motor Industries @ Fisherman's Bend Melbourne from the late 50;s to mid 79's), excepting numbers built there is little other info available & virtually no photo's, because when Toyota took over the plant in the late 70's they binned everything!!! The cars were really CKD ie all seperate panels for assembly here, chassis were complete, only mechanicals were assembled I wrote an article for the Courier a couple of years ago (Suzie S, Spits 1,2,3 section) with authority, from a recent TSOA Vic members history booklet from info gleaned from previous members and AMI employees, but the main publication was unfortunately copyright.
  11. Mid 90's daughters first Sprint I hated the zig zag exhaust system, which was in need of repair anyway so I had a larger straight front to back system fitted but the fitter accidently hit the nylon return pipe from the fuel tank (rear) to carbon Canister (front) with the oxy sealing it, so the tank couldn't breathe the resulting suction from the fuel pump collapsed the top of the tank in about 3in, obviously stopped the car in 1/2 mile, & only when the fuel cap was removed with a woosh did I realise what the issue was, the damage was permanent and the top of the tank didn't return so a new S/H tank was located, quite remarkable how much suction that little mechanical diaphragm fuel pump can create! Exhaust fitter "no I didn't do that!" I fitted a separate breather, l also fitted a locking cap, which I assumed must breathe too.
  12. Thanks, no great hurry when you have time Thanks Peter T
  13. Chris please, if you can remember & if your prepared to, can you provide the locating dimensions of the rear wheel arch mounting hole ie from the inner/outer wheel arch seam and circumferential distance from the front floor pan to the hole. My convertible conversion uses a very early rear CKD body tub with no safety belt fixtures. Regards Peter T
  14. Didn't the UK Territorial Army use them, I have a mate who was a Capt in it and he said they rolled over too easily, & he was a careful driver.
  15. Ref the manifold damage, the pedestals on the inlet manifold are used to attach the inlet manifold to the original cast iron exhaust manifold I assume to help support the inlet manifold? and/or transfer heat to the inlet manifold, now if you install an exhaust header you won't have these functions as there's no lugs on the steel pipes so I think you can get away with the damage without any impact on the cars working. Others may have more info! When modifying the daughters Mk2 Spit with a 1500 engine I had to cut the pedestals shorter so the inlet manifold cleared the twin siamese cast exhaust pipe could be used, there were other mods in hand too.
  16. The thread in the Thermo Housing I used 3/8in NPT (18TPI) as that's what my temp switch was (Spit Mk2 Elect Fan control), & that's the largest hole/tapping I think is possible. Takes a steady hand to pilot the drill thro the boss and miss the bolt hole, or good machine shop tools! I did it by hand with the trusty Dewalt I like those electric bolt heaters the TV car maintenance crews use to just preheat the bolt head or nut to red hot then the nut/bolt just comes out, wonder how much they cost? Colin I notice your GT6 thermo housing is showing it's age esp on that beautiful Alloy water pump housing a Co. in NZ on Trademe is selling NEW ones at NZ $187, hope this advice doesn't break any rules.
  17. Colin I like the alloy thermostat/water pump housing! Ref thermostat covers with temp sender or switch tapped into them, there was another version fitted to some early 6 potters but also Herald/Spits I believe photo attached
  18. Think I’ll use my spring loaded centre punch as a security
  19. Here in Aus i get my silicone fluid for the Vitesse from motor bike shops. Also remember once a container of std brake fluid is opened it absorbs moisture and I've found that between brake scheduled services it's absorbed too much moisture, so I end up scrapping it. I test using a moisture meter, our clubs classics are checked regularily @ club permit (rego) renewals. Late 80's getting my daughters first car a concour 76 Sprint ready for school & uni service (18 year old) I replaced seals, slaves, caliper pistons, & sleeved the master and used a very reputable make of brake fluid from new unopened containers to be told by the test RWC garage it had failed due to the brake fluid registering too much moisture, I argued the point he showed me the level on his gauge, I brought replacement fluid from him (Shell) and reflushed thro the system it then passed, I always thought I was conned!
  20. Dick, the reason I switched from a Frogeye to a Triumph more room and wind up windows oh and the front suspension the Sprites was a pain always wearing out! Been withTriumphs ever since!
  21. The distance pieces for the Reverse Gear Set Up for the 3 Rail 4 Syncro (Spit MkIV) part No.137687, and the Single Rail Gearbox's part No. 22G1435 are no longer available, so I can't obtain the 3 Rail 2137687 part, but have a spare Single Rail distance piece (22G1435) available. Can anyone tell me what the length of the 3 Rail part (137687) is, so I can make one from the single rail spare. The reason for the conversion is when I built a 3 Rail 4 Syncro J type overdrive gearbox, using a 3 Rail Gearbox Case with Single Rail internals I had to seriously modify the 3 rail Reverse Operating lever 106254 to get it to engage the gear selectors. I'm thinking this was in part due to the extra length of the single rail distance piece 22G1435, so I want to try using the shorter 3 rail distance piece to see if it permits the lever to rotate further back to mesh easier with the selectors?
  22. Well you shamed me into rebuilding my Vitesse Mk2 original AC mech fuel pump, I'd brought an NOS reco kit several years ago, but because of ongoing problems with priming it and a new aftermarket one I brought to replace it, I went electrical (Facet) with pump in the boot . I always wanted the mech unit as a spare, so I bit the bullet and started the rebuild of the original AC pump. The diaphragm was easy, BUT replacing the valves what a B***r that is, there a very tight fit and peened in the suction valve wasn't to hard to remove but wrecked in the process, but the delivery valve had no access to push it out, I used the Dremel with a metal cutter to remove the peen's then tried levering the old one out, NBG, so I had to drill a series of small holes near the outside of the valve outer dia to relieve the grip and collapse the outer steel casing inwards then lever out, thinking all the time this will bugger it! Fortunately there was no damage to the valve seat and both new valves were pushed in using a 1/2in AF long socket onto the new thin gaskets, which I held in place and to help seal on the the valve recess's with a thin layer of locktite. As said earlier there is no worry about the valves coming loose it took a fair pressure to seat them in their seats, no peening is necessary. I can definitely say the new valves operate and seal far better than the 50+ year old ones. When the weather warms up from the current 11 to 14C temps were getting I'll fit it in the car and see if it primes up OK. Re the electric Facet its the small cube unit & I think a bit lite on for a 6 potter 2 litre engine, I have an ECCO (SU alternative) which Tony Hart sells for the Stag so I think I'll upgrade to that. it looks far better to do the job! The ECCO came off a friends Stag when he upsized the engine from the Stags 3 litre to a Leyland Aus P76 4.4litre V8, which is mated to a Toyota Supra 5 speed box, the car goes very well indeed. The Leyland V8 was what Leyland Aus in the day offered as a warranty replacement for the troublesome Stags 3 litre engine.
  23. Make sure the wedge can slide easily and oil, number of times I've seen members here slamming doors because the wedge is seized.
  24. Pete please stick with it, I for one have totally enjoyed your story with the TR even going back as far as Chance, The chassis woes and the thought put into the reconditioning and the implementation of the work with reports has been very interesting and enjoyable to follow. To quit now and let some one else enjoy the fruits of your labor is something I couldn't contemplate, as others have said take a little breather and come back re-energized. Yep the English weather can be Cr*p, one of the reasons I returned to Oz, & Covid has screwed us all up, lock downs and restrictions are world wide and the stress it has put us all under is immeasurable, Please continue on with the TR story we all enjoy your DIY restoration stories/explanations so much, I think we've all been at the end of our tether re our cars at one time or another, hey remember it's a TRIUMPH over adversity! Re getting the car home, it's a Triumph they always manage to make it as they want to leave there mark there! Campervan very inventive, & even better made from scrap, think of it as house mods and there always messy Thinking of you, & Good Luck Peter T
  25. Advantage of the Rotoflex coupling it soaks up all wear, and noises, till it breaks!! Always remember in the UK driving in a Uni Car Club rally, backing up then slamming it into first and going for it, you could feel the donut winding up then launch you out! no bangs no noises
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