Choke Cable dash fitting

[Peter Truman]

Can anyone advise the dash push/pull end of the cable fitting where it goes thro the dashboard hole it appears to be around 5/8in OD with a 32tpi thread, its a rose style nut.

Hoping someone knows what the thread is

PeterT

[Colin Lindsay]

I too have been trying to determine that thread this week... I'm trying to adapt longer threaded cable ends due to a thicker dashboard setup, so while the chrome bezels fit, the nut behind is missing from one and nothing I have fits it. Here's hoping someone knows.

[Peter Truman]

I have 2 thin chrome nuts with the two notch’s in them but am missing the rose style nut that goes on the front of the dash which it sound like you have.

I’m helping a friend with his TR4 put his dash back to original currently he has a cheap aftermarket choke set up that doesn’t stay pulled out!

[Colin Lindsay]

This photo from my restoration thread shows the types I'm using; theres a slim nut on the top one, presumably for adjustment against the rear of the dash to suit the bezel, and a much thicker nut on the lower which is the length of threaded section I require. The nuts shown will fit only their own cable end and none of the others, so they're not the same thread, but nothing else I have will fit either, and I need two of the lower fitment size. I've had to cheat by using a chrome bezel in behind as well as on front. 

[Colin Lindsay]

I've found a 'locking nut' part number 515789; a search under that seems to show 26 tpi, in fact a 1/2 by 26tpi BSB thread. I'll look out for some now, but the problem is that some of mine won't fit other cables so I may get those but not exactly the ones I require. I can only try....

[Colin Lindsay]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304546959671?hash=item46e869d137:g:INoAAOSwRUxi3adJ&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4LIgQrF7d7KpnvvQRg9t9rq2KrWgU6dUMVPuhJgD%2BxkO%2BHruE%2BKctRUEgx58JVjRShOkrlIC9kmRve12hQT10chzMm3aHx8PeR6cHLtF5%2BAa9kjf%2FWHAq6T6S%2BF0VjS6WI8Yjs%2F%2FpboxDEu9osyfIWPXlSNr2%2Fmi6hUfy5%2F%2FcdNccEsxR1vQpd1SuVBxKfqlhreSM9QH%2FJD08yOzAU3PtMf6ZPmoMY8C%2B0g0E08f%2BNnhpoQOy5eoPJXhp6%2FcjaJE9ArYTUzZczL72hm%2Fq%2FUHRekKTlA3sSRNwJzuco4D9LC9|tkp%3ABk9SR4S8186GYg

Possible.... that thread is also listed as CEI a cycle thread, used on motorbike cables.

[Peter Truman]

Mine looks like your top one I’m sure mine measured at 32tpi using the SAE thread gauge but I’ll check again in the morning it’s difficult to check the nuts their so thin.Also Mine also has a flat on the side to stop it rotating in the hole

Thanks for the help Colin

[Peter Truman]

Checked the choke thread it's 9/16in OD and definitely 32TPI.

By comparison the Lucas light switch mounting threads are 9/16in OD by 28TPI (bug*er) 

Found a reference to the choke thread, see 9/16 Primary Row 32-UN, what ever that is?

Edited May 20, 2023 by Peter Truman

[Colin Lindsay]

There are quite a few variations, unfortunately. The choke cable I'm using is the thinnest of them all, long threaded section with a flat on one side - left pic below. It fits into the jaws of a 1/2 spanner, less the flat section which is thinner. The heater one is thicker and stubbier, has the ratchet mechanism, looks like a coarser thread rather than finer and is closer to 9/16 - left of the centre pic below. The choke bezel won't fit any of the other cables but even there, there are different threads and diameters so some will not fit others.

      

I searched online for the choke cable thread, found a discussion in a TR4 forum where they reckoned it was 1/2 by 28tpi. A search for the dimensions revealed it's a cable thread, called BSB but also CEI / BSCY; one of the uses is choke cables. So: me being me I've gone for a 28tpi BSB die @ £3 and four slim 1/2 nuts @ £1.89 in hope. I'll expect them in the post by Tuesday so can confirm then.

 

[Peter Truman]

Triumph as usual too many options

I can get out of trouble as I have two two slotted Chrome ring nuts and I can machine one into the back of a suitably diameter sized rose nut

Mine is for a mates TR4 he’s putting it back to original

[Colin Lindsay]

Just to update that my four 1/2 by 26 tpi BSB thread half nuts arrived today - a perfect fit on the choke cables. Too small for any of the others, but on the choke cable that has no ratchet mechanism, like the heater cables do, they were perfect. I was also able to get a thread die for £3, so cleaned up the threads before fitting. As I said earlier I need these longer-threaded cables due to the thickness of the non-standard dashboard, so couldn't use any of the others.

I got the data from a TR forum, so may suit your mate's car as well.

 

[Peter Truman]

We made my ratchet choke knob with the 32tpi thread fit my mates TR4 choke he turned out a suitable OD rose nut to accept one of the smaller cross head chrome suitably locked into the underside of the rose nut a real interference fit, heat and cold method tomorrow he’ll solder the inner piano wire and outer Bowden cable into the choke dash assembly 

I also found the thin alloy choke insignia and clear perspex disc to fit in the end of the correct knob so he’s a happy chappie!

Were all cooking with gas here

[PeteH]

32 minutes ago, Peter Truman said:

Were all cooking with gas here

Lucky You!!. We`re being "Ecouraged" to go all Electric in the UK now. That`ll be fun when the grid can no longer cope?.🙄

Pete

[Colin Lindsay]

1 hour ago, Peter Truman said:

We made my ratchet choke knob with the 32tpi thread fit my mates TR4 choke he turned out a suitable OD rose nut to accept one of the smaller cross head chrome suitably locked into the underside of the rose nut a real interference fit, heat and cold method tomorrow he’ll solder the inner piano wire and outer Bowden cable into the choke dash assembly 

I had thought of cheating (if I can be so unkind and use that word) and gluing or forcing a stopper onto the threads and just tighten the bezel, but given the actual setup it would have been too difficult to gauge the position that would leave the end of the cable flush with the bezel on the front. The dashboard has different cut-outs from the hardboard backing, and since the latter never had an ashtray it's straight across, whereas the dashboard has got a long rectangular recess across that area which leaves a gap of over 1/2 inch between the wood and the backing. Logic wa to have the ashtray sandwiched in between, but that was a non-starter given that the ashtray blocks access to everything above so had to go in last. So actual assembly is: bezel - rubber washer - dashboard - nut - dashboard backing - ashtray - locking washer - nut. Thus the cable is secured in two places so is quite well held in place, but the dashboard isn't crushed inwards.

[Peter Truman]

8 hours ago, PeteH said:

Lucky You!!. We`re being "Ecouraged" to go all Electric in the UK now. That`ll be fun when the grid can no longer cope?.🙄

Pete

Getting that way here too, gas prices are up around 40%, elect up 25%.

Our ducted air gas heater is still going after 44 years, I annually strip it service, clean, and test it, but its efficiency must be questionable compared to modern units, so I'm looking to retire it and utilize the existing and relatively new 3 reverse cycle air conditioners we have for both heating and cooling, supposed to be very efficient. I'll need to fit a 4th unit of around 9 to 10KW to heat the infrequently used front formal dining room and lounge both biggish areas 24ft by 15ft & 12ft respectively, currently an older AC only. At least with the AC units I can set different temperatures for each area (background heat only in the little used areas) & time controls, even stop/start and change temperatures remotely by phone, that's getting a little tech for me!.

With the new AC that will be around 15 fuses/circuit breakers in the fuse box, each AC is separately fused, 2 for the pool, oven, then rest are house power and lighting circuits, like a small factory?

About 9 months ago before the gas price hike I replaced our gas Direct Mains Pressure Hot Water Boiler, a week later the State Gov started subsidising the installation of the electric alternative, shit happens!!

[Peter Truman]

Lindsay here's my Vitesse Dash still the original timber Veneer, but extra tell tale lights and switch's, top left red is security alarm system reqd by insurers, bottom left light blue map light ie Butlers flexi mounted up under glove box so a warning light to tell me it's on, dark blue & switch is electric fuel pump, orange and switch is rear fog lights (ex UK driving in NE England & still fitted, why?), Right green is Overdrive light & switch, just out of pic and mounted under the dash is the old style Lucas Emergency 4 way flasher.

The radio is a cheap ($40 ex USA) old style, but modern AM/FM digital with actual moving mechanical cursor, and USB and CD input, (don't ask about the Chanel logo on left knob, now removed)

The switch's I'd like to get better looking ones, but there the only ones with enough spindle length to mount thro the timber dash the main body of the switch abuts directly onto the back of the timber dash ie no rear washer or nut.

Edited May 26, 2023 by Peter Truman

[Colin Lindsay]

10 hours ago, Peter Truman said:

The switch's I'd like to get better looking ones, but there the only ones with enough spindle length to mount thro the timber dash the main body of the switch abuts directly onto the back of the timber dash ie no rear washer or nut.

That's why I used the Lucas pull switches; all of the other 'flick' switches were too short in the threaded section to give sufficient length on the dash face. The Lucas SPB104 period pull switches are much longer, particularly if you remove the brass nut and just use a thinner lock-tooth washer against the body, plus they'll also take the original Triumph chrome bezel. 

My own radio is a Motorola, although with a modern speaker hidden in behind the grille. Sadly I can't get a good period aerial though.

[Peter Truman]

I’ve got plenty of the Lucas push/pull variety but I just don’t like the action.

I’ll just keep looking they’ll turn up sometime, it’s a bug@@r when your single minded!