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Clutch Slipping Vitesse Mk2 2litre


PatK

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Hi All, I hope yon can give me some help with a clutch slip problem. When reversing up a steep ramp into the garage yesterday and reversing onto a scaffolding board laid on the ground either side of the scissors lift, the clutch started slipping with the clutch fully out and making a squealing sound.   It has never done this before.  The clutch and friction plate are hardly worn as the car has not been driven more than 1000 miles in 3 years, and only once this year so far. I noticed that the clutch pedal only starts to bite when the pedal is almost fully up, so perhaps it is permanently slightly depressing the clutch ?  I was looking to adjust the free play but could not see any means to do it, so perhaps you could give me some of your help and tips.  Many Thanks,   Patrick

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No adjustment as its a hydraulic system. Usually when that fails the problem is getting the clutch to disengage and gear changes crunch not slip like yours. Therefore it seems more mechanical to me like something is preventing the assembly from coming back to its correct position when released. The bite point should be quite low down and comfortable and one possibility is the friction plate was put in the wrong way round...

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Thank you Johny. I don't think that the friction plate was put in the wrong way round, but it's a possibility. However this problem is only recent, I wonder if there is something sticking on the splines?  To rule out the pedal there is 1/2" free play at the top of the pedal. Is there any way I can check if the friction plate is the wrong way round.?  I do have an endoscope that I could look into the bell housing with and I guess see the splined boss of the friction plate so if it was the wrong way round would it look longer or shorter than normal?

Thanks Johny

 

Patrick

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Some free play is good as it shows the clutch isnt being held off by the pedal. I think at the very least youre going to have to take the interior gearbox cover off, initially to look at the slave cylinder operation and then boroscoping. The latter is worth trying but difficult to make out what youre looking at. If the plate was wrong way round it might just work to start with and then after a little bit of wear begin to slip....

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if the plate was reversed the hub will foul on the flywheel bolts   so you cant disengage     you have slip  so its more the diaphragm /cover has a  failing 

or  the mechanical levers is playing up  even the carrier is sticking on the gearbox nose there are lots of wear points but they wont contribute to slip

 

 

 

clutch diag 1.pdf clutch diag 2.pdf clutch 3.pdf clutch failures 4.pdf

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I had a similar problem with clutch slip on my Spitfire so bought a new clutch set.  However, when preparing to remove the gearbox I found various problems with the hydraulics,(new master and slave required and missing return spring on the pedal) which I now think could be the main cause.  As I already had the new clutch, I continued to fit it even though the existing clutch showed little wear.  So my advice would be to check out the hydraulics before removing the gearbox.

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agree   the slave is often seized or part seized  this holds the cover/disc  in a unclamped state and you get slip with little load 

there is no way you can check which way round the disc is fitted on an assembled unit  , but as said it would  lock the drive not  slip it 

Pete

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Thanks Johny, Pete and Graham, I think that I have solved the problem ( time will tell ), by repeatedly rapidly pushing down on the clutch pedal and rapidly letting it return with the engine running. I did it repeatedly for a couple of minutes, and it now seems to have freed everything up as the clutch biting point is now about half way down and seems to be operating normally now.  I think that this is a classic case of problems occurring when you don't drive the cars enough. Fingers crossed and thanks again, what a great Club and members to belong to.

 

Patrick

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3 hours ago, PatK said:

Thanks Johny, Pete and Graham, I think that I have solved the problem ( time will tell ), by repeatedly rapidly pushing down on the clutch pedal and rapidly letting it return with the engine running. I did it repeatedly for a couple of minutes, and it now seems to have freed everything up as the clutch biting point is now about half way down and seems to be operating normally now.  I think that this is a classic case of problems occurring when you don't drive the cars enough. Fingers crossed and thanks again, what a great Club and members to belong to.

Good news although not sure what caused the squealing sound so I would say the system is under quarantine at the moment😁

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2 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

you can with care and a tube squirt some grease on the nose of the front cover that the withdrawl bearing slides on from the wd lever apperture 

probably this is the sticking point  or its the slave playing up 

pleased you have kicked it into touch  Ha !

Pete

Thanks Pete I will do that.

Patrick

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