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GT6 Mk3 only runs well with VERY advanced timing. Any ideas why?


nicrguy1966

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if you are going to set the dizzy by ear you can do this at idle  so you dont upset your idle setting 

its easy to over advance so from 'best 'back it of a good bit 

and at 2500 on alight throttle you need to drop the vac unit pipe as that will be picking up vacuum and advancing the base plate 

back to basics  at 10-13 deg at idle /or static  ...........it should run fine 

Pete

 

 

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57 minutes ago, nicrguy1966 said:

I was planning on screwing down the idle adjustment on the carbs. Bad idea?

Don't do that because you may unbalance the carbs. I used a strong clothes peg on the throttle cable until l put an adjuster in the cable after fitting a drop down pedal in the Vitesse. Your GT6 will already have this and I fitted a motorcycle type adjuster where the cable enters near the Brake reservoir. It is very handy,

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34 minutes ago, johny said:

well as theres one on each carb its possible to get out of balance...

Yes, but the two carbs are linked by a common throttle control (unless you deliberately loosen the link between them), so adjusting the idle on one the accelerator cable is connected to should affect both (exactly like pushing the accelerator pedal)

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PeteL is correct on disconnecting the vacuum pipe if setting up at 2500 rpm.

I disconnected the advance retard on one of my cars years ago and fitted an 'Advance/Retard' lever just like early cars. One could adjust timing at any rpm. Trouble is, you forever play with yet another control and risk severe overheating.

Soon removed my silly mod. I was in my Twenties.

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2 minutes ago, nicrguy1966 said:

Yes, but the two carbs are linked by a common throttle control (unless you deliberately loosen the link between them), so adjusting the idle on one the accelerator cable is connected to should affect both (exactly like pushing the accelerator pedal)

Beware, the linkage can slip unless the clamps are really tight.

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2 minutes ago, nicrguy1966 said:

Yes, but the two carbs are linked by a common throttle control (unless you deliberately loosen the link between them), so adjusting the idle on one the accelerator cable is connected to should affect both (exactly like pushing the accelerator pedal)

yes but the linkage isnt prefectly rigid, well mine isnt, so I can change each carb individually even with all the connections fully tightened up. This doesnt matter when operating the carbs with the throttle cable but might make a difference in this case especially as its running at no load...

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4 minutes ago, johny said:

yes but the linkage isnt prefectly rigid, well mine isnt, so I can change each carb individually even with all the connections fully tightened up. This doesnt matter when operating the carbs with the throttle cable but might make a difference in this case especially as its running at no load...

I'll have a good look at the linkage and see if there is a better solution, maybe a bulldog clip or similar on the accelerator cable. I'm not doing anything until it's at least 15 degrees outside, so a few months away.

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whilst the max centrifugal advance is around 3000rpm with a around 28/32 degs advance 

do READ  the test data in the WSM as this is mostly done DECELERATING 

remember the only triumph ignition timing specification is ......static 

moving away from spec for all the above reasons is fine  if you have good ears and no worries about melting a crown 

if you dont know  , then its best not to mess with the unknown 

happy christmas 

Pete

 

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33 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

whilst the max centrifugal advance is around 3000rpm with a around 28/32 degs advance 

do READ  the test data in the WSM as this is mostly done DECELERATING 

remember the only triumph ignition timing specification is ......static 

moving away from spec for all the above reasons is fine  if you have good ears and no worries about melting a crown 

if you dont know  , then its best not to mess with the unknown 

happy christmas 

Pete

 

My car only runs smoothly when it's way off spec (hence starting this thread). I've given up all hope of ever setting it to spec. I just want it to run well across a wide rev range.

It's better now than before I started meddling, but I'm sure there are a few more horses hiding somewhere. A year ago I had no power at high revs and struggled to go above 70 mph in top gear, now it feels keen even at higher speeds than I'm allowed to drive. Low revs aren't quite right yet, hill starts are not my friend.

Setting the ignition by ear (or for peak revs) seems to give me far better results than a strobe and any target 'correct' setting.

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1 hour ago, nicrguy1966 said:

Setting the ignition by ear (or for peak revs) seems to give me far better results than a strobe and any target 'correct' setting.

I can only say what I'm going to do which is the old school increase advance until it pinks then back off 1-2 degrees. After much reading about how slow modern ethanol added fuel burns I believe the Triumph wsm advance setting needs tweeking. I only retarded my ignition to 8 degrees as I thought 13 degrees was causing pinking but it turned out to be the rad cap hitting the bonnet or as just found a Mikalor hose clamp hitting the alternator. Which ever one it sounded exactly like pinking! Last year I did run at around 20 degrees and the engine was much more responsive but bottled out as I hadn't done the research. 

Thanks for opening this subject for scrutiny. I'm looking forward to regaining those lost horses after spending many many hours sorting out the carb fuel/air mixture needles, damper springs and oil. 

Iain 

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  • 3 weeks later...

To continue this topic I have advanced my timing from around 11 degrees to 17. I had to adjust the tickover as it was a little high at this setting. Took the car out for an hours drive of slow, medium and er sorry 'orficer fast driving with no pinking under load. Tickover is more stable and revs and pulls very nicely. On listening to the engine my high and low advance range is around 8 to 24 degrees so I set about the middle. 

I'm leaving the advance there and will give it a longer term test as it seems a pretty safe setting. 

Iain 

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20 hours ago, Iain T said:

To continue this topic I have advanced my timing from around 11 degrees to 17. I had to adjust the tickover as it was a little high at this setting. Took the car out for an hours drive of slow, medium and er sorry 'orficer fast driving with no pinking under load. Tickover is more stable and revs and pulls very nicely. On listening to the engine my high and low advance range is around 8 to 24 degrees so I set about the middle. 

I'm leaving the advance there and will give it a longer term test as it seems a pretty safe setting. 

Iain 

I'm still making minor changes to my ignition timing. Yesterday I advanced it slightly, and went for an hour's drive. Still no pinking, so I'll advance it a bit more before my next drive.

I've packed the strobe away and decided to just set the ignition timing so the car runs its best. Out of curiosity, I might check what that setting is once I've found it (I'm actually expecting it to be exactly where it was when I wrote post #1, and all the work I did on the cam timing was a total waste of time, but let's see!)

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6 minutes ago, johny said:

Cant see it as complete waste of time as valve timing was wrong wasnt it? How much do you think it was out in the end?

I flipped the sprocket, so I'm assuming a 1/4 of a tooth, but honestly, even with measuring everything several times, that could easily have been user error!

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56 minutes ago, nicrguy1966 said:

but honestly, even with measuring everything several times, that could easily have been user error

But you got oily, dirty and increased your knowledge base. These are all good things that make me happy😁

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