Doctor slow Posted January 4 Report Share Posted January 4 It started as a simple job. I needed to replace one wheel stud, because the thread was crossed.The established wisdom is that you can tap out the old one, put the new one in, then use a wheel nut to pull it in - right? Then why did mine not only NOT pull in, but stripped the thread on the new stud? So I thought I would replace the hub with a new/old one. Foolishly I used a non-churchill puller, and not only stripped the thread on the puller centre bolt and distorted the puller, but also stripped the thread on two more studs.....such fun So, usual question, does anyone in the guildford/aldershot area have a churchill that I can borrow, with any appropriate charges and/or deposit, please, and bearing in mind that I would be borrowing someone else's tool, can I tap out the remaining studs and replace them with "normal" nuts and bolts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted January 4 Report Share Posted January 4 I wouldn't replace the studs with nuts and bolts, but you can use uprated studs (once you get so far) - run a quick search on the forum for previous posts on uprated studs. Secondly if you have not yet removed the hub, just press out the studs and replace with new from behind. They'll move backwards with a few good whacks from a hammer. New ones will also press in from behind, no need to remove the hub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted January 4 Report Share Posted January 4 54 minutes ago, Doctor slow said: It started as a simple job. I needed to replace one wheel stud, because the thread was crossed.The established wisdom is that you can tap out the old one, put the new one in, then use a wheel nut to pull it in - right? Then why did mine not only NOT pull in, but stripped the thread on the new stud? I can only think the splines of the new studs were different or didnt align correctly with the hubs so wouldnt pull in... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doctor slow Posted January 4 Author Report Share Posted January 4 Well Colin, as you can see, I tried to replace the only one stud that was a problem, but it would but pull in, and damaged the thread. I don't intend to permanently replace the studs with nuts and bolts, just to use the puller. My new/old hub already has studs fitted. Johnny, I thought that the whole point of the studs was that the splines deformed as the stud was pulled in. But anyway, The new studs are the same as the old ones, and the splines did align when I just initially placed them in the hub before tightening them. I gave up on all this, thinking I would just (?just) replace the hub... haha! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted January 4 Report Share Posted January 4 2 hours ago, Doctor slow said: Johnny, I thought that the whole point of the studs was that the splines deformed as the stud was pulled in. Im pretty certain when you buy studs they specify the number of splines to match what you need so theres no deforming required👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doctor slow Posted January 4 Author Report Share Posted January 4 I really would like you to be right, then I wouldn't have to take this wretched hub off. Can you tell me where I find out the correct number of splines for a 1979 Spitfire 1500? The ones I bought said they were for a triumph spitfire, but they were also supposed to fit all triumphs with that hub??? They certainly appeared to match the one that I replaced, but I must confess, I didn't count the splines. And I thought I read on here somewhere that they deform as you pull them on?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted January 4 Report Share Posted January 4 Looking at it I cant see numbers of splines just their diameter so presumably thats all that matters. If yours are correct for Spitfire they should fit all the small chassis triumphs... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted January 4 Report Share Posted January 4 5 hours ago, Doctor slow said: Well Colin, as you can see, I tried to replace the only one stud that was a problem, but it would but pull in, and damaged the thread. I don't intend to permanently replace the studs with nuts and bolts, just to use the puller. My new/old hub already has studs fitted. Gotcha now, I understand what you mean but I'd still avoid using the replacement hub - it's far too much work! I've had a quick search for replacement studs, some go for 7/16 or the dreaded modern metric M12 (Freelander?) but there are some interesting posts on them, seemingly the 3/8 stud is still a winner for many provided it hasn't been mistreated or stripped. http://auskellian.com/paul/links_files/upgrade_spitfire_wheel_studs.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doctor slow Posted January 5 Author Report Share Posted January 5 Thanks for the replies, but I'm pretty much committed now to the hub replacement. Haven't had any takers for the loan or hire, so looks like I'm going to buy one. Just don't tell my wife... or tell her that it's a garden implement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted January 5 Report Share Posted January 5 10 minutes ago, Doctor slow said: Just don't tell my wife... or tell her that it's a garden implement. Gathering nuts... picking nuts... removing nuts... not much difference really. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homersimpson Posted January 5 Report Share Posted January 5 Depending on how much the tool costs could you just remove the hub and driveshaft assembley from the car and then use a press to push it apart? Most garages and engineering shops will have a press and i'm sure you would find someone to do this for you for a reasonable fee. Apologies if this isn't possible as i'm not yet familiar with the Spitfire rear hubs as I'm a Jag guy who is about to start his first Triumph restoration. I've had to do this on MK2 Jag rear hubs in the past when even the proper tool wouldn't touch it, they are quite hard to get off though as they need you to smash the brake disc apart on those to unbolt the end plate so the hub and halfshaft can be removed and then put in a press. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doctor slow Posted January 7 Author Report Share Posted January 7 Well, thank you all for your comments. On Saturday, a friend was passing and we were talking about my problem (well at least the only one I was prepared to talk about) and he said that he had three pullers that he had made (he was a toolmaker, and owned a 1938 Lancia Aprillia - beautiful). He brought them round yesterday and one fitted well enough to work -yippee - hub off. Thanks again. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted January 7 Report Share Posted January 7 (edited) If the hub flange gets distorted have them skimmed in a lathe to reface them saves any drum run out etc. Pete Edited January 7 by Pete Lewis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted January 7 Report Share Posted January 7 Well done! Hope it all works as intended. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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