haggis Posted May 2 Report Share Posted May 2 Hey forum wise folk, I’ve been off the forum for a little while, just got my car back and mot’d and I’ve got more leaks than Thames water. Diff, overdrive and main all leaking with a 5 year old core plug leaking too. I’ve done the overdrive rear flange a few times now (bought a new drive flange this time) I’m looking at the rear diff one and after reading lots of previous posts you all got me scared! I’m pretty handy but it’s been a few years since I got my them dirty, I’ve got the worse case scenario of nyloc nut, so I know I’ve got to mark, housing, flange and nut, but what’s the best proven method for removing the old seal? and when I put it back, do I torque or just get the marks to align? And how accurate does it need to be? thanks hag PS I have tool to hold flange. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Posted May 2 Report Share Posted May 2 Hi Did my seal a few months back. Count the turns of the nut. Remove oil seal with seal remover leveror a screwdriver. Apply lock tight Tighen nut back up and of course count the turns Torque up as recommended Job done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 2 Report Share Posted May 2 Yes I actually prefer the nylock type as with the older type youre supposed to retorque a used bearing back to original new torque which doesnt seem right... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haggis Posted May 2 Author Report Share Posted May 2 Brilliant, I’ll give it a go at the weekend then, slightly curious on the lock tight as surely the nyloc takes care of that? thanks hag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 2 Report Share Posted May 2 Think nylocs lose their lock on reuse but this is a big one to replace so lock tight would give extra security? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteH Posted May 3 Report Share Posted May 3 10 hours ago, haggis said: Brilliant, I’ll give it a go at the weekend then, slightly curious on the lock tight as surely the nyloc takes care of that? thanks hag It`s Allway`s a good idea to regard "Nylock" fasteners as being "One Shot". They mostly will still work, but in the real world?. Locktight won`t hurt, (I`ve even used superglue before to-day). Clean with Brake cleaner or similar to remove grease traces. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 3 Report Share Posted May 3 (edited) the chance a nylock will do anything to stop a coupling from shuffle undoing is remote in all the torque testing we were involved with in trucks was they were useless an many fixings reverted to plain nut and washer . there are two types of triumph diff preload spacers castle nut and pin has a solid spacer nylock nut uses a collapsible spacer a solid spacer will maintain the preload its set with shims when you mess with the nut. the collapsible spacer will maintain its size and the preload if the nut is replaced to the same torque and position as of the factory fit, overtighten can overload the pre load , loose and you reduce the pre load . pre load is required to keep things in mesh under ll the variable loads put through the geartrain take care when hooking the oil seal you do not get hold of the outer brg. roller cage !!!! and dont forget to top up the oil levels and if you want quieter diffs try EP140 GL4 but not in the gear box pete Edited May 3 by Pete Lewis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haggis Posted May 3 Author Report Share Posted May 3 Thanks guys, I’ll get some locktight, can you mix diff oil? hag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 3 Report Share Posted May 3 Pretty much have to as no drain plug and sucking out is a pain.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haggis Posted May 4 Author Report Share Posted May 4 Well I found out why it’s leaking I think? Guess this ain’t going back on. This was a rebuilt diff about 6 years ago from one of the main suppliers, there’s no way this could happen to new flange in such a short time, few miles is there? They must have fitted it like that. 🤷♂️ hag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haggis Posted May 4 Author Report Share Posted May 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 4 Report Share Posted May 4 That looks like it was worn and someone has tried to resurface it by grinding which of course will make it smaller and rougher! Could possibly be saved using a speedisleeve but god knows what size it is now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haggis Posted May 5 Author Report Share Posted May 5 To be honest, the leak wasn’t that bad. As I’m trying to get to SEM and with a short week and no suppliers showing stock, might just metal epoxy it and stick it back in. thanks hag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 5 Report Share Posted May 5 and to add make sure the breather is clear pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 5 Report Share Posted May 5 Whats the epoxy for? Trouble with that surface is it could wear any seal quite quickly and of course is smaller than design... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haggis Posted May 23 Author Report Share Posted May 23 Well the epoxy metal filler worked, managed to get a new flange but won’t fit until leaks again. Did the two hour drive to sem and so far so good. Thanks for all your help. Hag Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted May 23 Report Share Posted May 23 But what did you do exactly with the epoxy filler? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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