JohnD Posted June 30 Report Share Posted June 30 Everyone drives differently, but I used to feather the throtlle for O/d changes. Going into O/d, the revs will fall, out the other way, so anticipate that with your right foot. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rulloyd Posted July 1 Author Report Share Posted July 1 Can anybody suggest why my Solenoid is not drawing the momentary 20amps (30 according to John Kipping) when activating, but working. Very concerned that I don’t ’put the car together again’ only to find there is a potential issue. Or a suggestion on who else to check with? Many thanks for all advice, very much appreciated always! Rich Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted July 1 Report Share Posted July 1 Is your ammeter fast enough to pick it up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted July 1 Report Share Posted July 1 Rulloyd, Which wire are you testing? There is a relay with a large brown wire that supplies the high initial current to the solenoid. The relay is controlled by a circuit with small white wire from the ignition switch, and a small Yellow/Green wire to the O/d switch on the steering column. It is the first that carries the high opening current, to protect the column switch. See: Wiring diagram - Electrical System - The Triumph Sports Six Club Forum (tssc.org.uk) John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rulloyd Posted July 1 Author Report Share Posted July 1 33 minutes ago, JohnD said: Rulloyd, Which wire are you testing? There is a relay with a large brown wire that supplies the high initial current to the solenoid. The relay is controlled by a circuit with small white wire from the ignition switch, and a small Yellow/Green wire to the O/d switch on the steering column. It is the first that carries the high opening current, to protect the column switch. See: Wiring diagram - Electrical System - The Triumph Sports Six Club Forum (tssc.org.uk) John Hi John. I simply disconnected the solenoid at the solenoid end (short tail from the solenoid) and connected the ammeter between the two tails. (Mine is red because I had to extend it) must admit, the tail on the solenoid doesn’t look like it would carry 20amps (the cable is the same as my old unit) so I wonder if something has been modified in new Solenoids. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rulloyd Posted July 1 Author Report Share Posted July 1 59 minutes ago, johny said: Is your ammeter fast enough to pick it up? Possibly not. I’ll try another meter (difficult to find a meter that will cope with 20amps). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted July 1 Report Share Posted July 1 Apparently it really is fast so could you put the operating arm lock pin in place and then wedge the solenoid rod extended. That way the solenoid cant pull in and will draw the high current continuously.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 1 Report Share Posted July 1 the pull in coil takes around 10 amps , and is for a second or two ,as soon as the armature hits its switch which as you have seen is a ver short travel it switches the pull in coil to a 0.5amp holding coil all in the bllnk of an eye as its working why all the hype about current and whatever drive the car and sleep easy seems a better plan Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted July 1 Report Share Posted July 1 Just being cautious I think Pete. Rulloyd at rest is the operating rod nut set 3mm away from the arm as per the manual? In the vid it looks to be a bit more.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted July 1 Report Share Posted July 1 1 hour ago, rulloyd said: Hi John. I simply disconnected the solenoid at the solenoid end (short tail from the solenoid) and connected the ammeter between the two tails. (Mine is red because I had to extend it) must admit, the tail on the solenoid doesn’t look like it would carry 20amps (the cable is the same as my old unit) so I wonder if something has been modified in new Solenoids. You're right, that tail is small bore for that current, but must carry it downstream of the relay! One way to see such a transient would be to invest in a Picoscope, or other computer based oscilloscope: https://www.picotech.com/products/oscilloscope These can detect, and display, changes and frequencies into the MEGAHertz range. (a millionth of a second!) John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rulloyd Posted July 1 Author Report Share Posted July 1 1 hour ago, Pete Lewis said: drive the car and sleep easy seems a better plan Pete Haha, it may be working now it if it ain’t working exactly like it outa, chances are it won’t be soon. Why take that risk? Cars already spent too much time on axle stands… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rulloyd Posted July 1 Author Report Share Posted July 1 1 hour ago, JohnD said: One way to see such a transient would be to invest in a Picoscope, or other computer based oscilloscope: Thanks John. I’m anal, but I’m not THAT anal!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted July 1 Report Share Posted July 1 I found the Picoscope invaluable - essential! - in my research on crank dampers. Easy to museum, too! John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rulloyd Posted July 1 Author Report Share Posted July 1 51 minutes ago, JohnD said: I found the Picoscope invaluable - essential! - in my research on crank dampers. Easy to museum, too! John One to look into then! Thanks John! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rulloyd Posted July 1 Author Report Share Posted July 1 3 hours ago, johny said: Just being cautious I think Pete. Rulloyd at rest is the operating rod nut set 3mm away from the arm as per the manual? In the vid it looks to be a bit more.... Yes that’s interesting. The nut is set to ensure the holes align. But to achieve that it has to be right on the end of the plunger thread. If I manually push the plunger towards the blanking plug it nearly disappears inside the plug giving around a 10mm gap. My blanking plug is hollow with an adjustable screw in the centre. However the adjusting screw is impossible to adjust because the gearbox casting is on the way. I wonder why 3mm is specified. 10 mm doesn’t stop it working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rulloyd Posted July 1 Author Report Share Posted July 1 On 30/06/2024 at 17:23, johny said: I suppose its too late to try it now but it would have been good to have measured the solenoid resistance to earth (lower) and then manually operate the plunger to see if it changes to a higher resistance... I tested the resistance and it does increase exactly at the point the holes align. I also compared the readings to the old solenoid (which works intermittently) and resistance was the same so indication is it’s working! i don’t know why the ammeters not registering the 20amp spike but as suggested, it can only be the meter, unless the design of the solenoid has changed. Thanks all for the great advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 2 Report Share Posted July 2 (edited) i have only managed around 10 amps , blink and you miss it agree setting the end stop is a bit of a faf . if the OD is seemingly a bit lazy make sure the hole down the needle is clear remove the top cap dont loose the ball and spring , pull the needle ,make sure its tiny hole //bore is clear Pete Edited July 2 by Pete Lewis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted July 2 Report Share Posted July 2 9 hours ago, rulloyd said: Yes that’s interesting. The nut is set to ensure the holes align. But to achieve that it has to be right on the end of the plunger thread. If I manually push the plunger towards the blanking plug it nearly disappears inside the plug giving around a 10mm gap. My blanking plug is hollow with an adjustable screw in the centre. However the adjusting screw is impossible to adjust because the gearbox casting is on the way. I wonder why 3mm is specified. 10 mm doesn’t stop it working. Strange about your blanking plug but I know there were different designs. Can only think the 3mm is to ensure iron core of plunger is correctly located in coil of solenoid before operation (reduces initial pull in current?) and maybe also then doesnt have too much speed when it whacks into the arm.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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