johny Posted August 23 Report Share Posted August 23 Theres a couple of possibilities Marttyn: A sender can work perfectly except its float is punctured so it doesnt errr float or it gets snagged inside the tank (typically on the inside wall) so also cant rise to the full position.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyn wright Posted August 23 Author Report Share Posted August 23 Hi Johny! So I may aswell put the new Sender in to play safe! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 23 Report Share Posted August 23 Not if its going to snag on the inside like the others Martyn! Sometimes the arm needs a bit of adjustment (bending) to keep everything well clear so have a look inside and compare👍 Oh also sometimes the float is installed the wrong way round so catches on the sides.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 23 Report Share Posted August 23 You can even bend a piece of wire into a U at the end and thread it in through the filler so you can hook the arm of the sender once installed and gently lift it up to ensure it can easily go to indicating full... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 23 Report Share Posted August 23 and tie a bit of string to the wire hook so you can recover it when you drop it in the tank H a! Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 23 Report Share Posted August 23 ha, or bend the exterior end of the wire so its too big to fit in the filler🤪 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyn wright Posted August 23 Author Report Share Posted August 23 Thank! That's a bloody Help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyn wright Posted August 23 Author Report Share Posted August 23 (edited) I have measured inside and the original old and the new are 270mm and the one I took out is approx 230mm and is bent and has a plastic float? Sorry that's the length with floats and depth inside is about 290mm Edited August 23 by martyn wright Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 23 Report Share Posted August 23 Think the arms can be swopped cant they? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyn wright Posted August 23 Author Report Share Posted August 23 They can but only on the two that are the same size? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyn wright Posted August 23 Author Report Share Posted August 23 (edited) On the fitting plate there are 2 x scew connectors and one spade! On the top of the plate it states TOP? If I put float in that way, the gauge reads full although the float is resting on the bottom of the tank? So I have turned the plate so the words TOP is on the bottom and that makes the fuel gauge shows 1/4 full although the float is on the bottom? I have the B earh on the spade then there is a screw empty and I have connected the R/G to the 2nd screw? Edited August 23 by martyn wright Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 23 Report Share Posted August 23 Anyway all its got to do is have the float stopped just before it hits the bottom of the tank and its then clear to go all the way up without hitting the sides. Long is better as it'll give a more graduated reading rather reading full too early. Black to welded terminal other to the insulated one (left). Dont like the way you have to turn it upside down - your gauge is definitely moving iron and flicks about when power put on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyn wright Posted August 23 Author Report Share Posted August 23 Right did that but the tank is showing full? Could it be the wiring to the gauge? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 23 Report Share Posted August 23 ok so the float is definitely down, the sender is the right way up so its resistance should be about 3 ohms for empty. Your moving iron gauge should need to have current flowing to read empty so yes it could be that theres a wiring problem if youre certain you have got a moving iron gauge? It could have been changed by a PO but the correct one should have an FG number on it somewhere.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 23 Report Share Posted August 23 1 hour ago, martyn wright said: Looking at this photo Martyn you say the wire is red/green to the sender but looking at the wiring diagram those colours go to the LH rear indicator. The sender wire should be green/black... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyn wright Posted August 23 Author Report Share Posted August 23 Im sure I used spare red/green cos thats all I had? I will have another look and will check Gauge Numbers? Cheers Johny! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 23 Report Share Posted August 23 yes need to check its the same wire all the way from the sender to the gauge. What colours on the indicator? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyn wright Posted August 23 Author Report Share Posted August 23 (edited) My Indicators are Pass Rear Red Green Green/Purple The Guage that I took off is Jaeger no marks apart fm T & B on terminals Just looked at the Old New Stock Box and it has 145700 which I crossed ref to Vitesse Mk1 2ltr? Which I fitted a couple of weeks ago? Edited August 23 by martyn wright Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyn wright Posted August 23 Author Report Share Posted August 23 FG2333/05 Is a non stabalised Guage for a Mk2 Vitesse No Stock? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 23 Report Share Posted August 23 ok Ive just seen that with these gauges those letters on the terminals are important and unlike the later type decide the connections. B is for battery so must have the green wire while T is for tank so the green/black one... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 23 Report Share Posted August 23 Also the gauge must be earth to work and not just for its back light as I said earlier.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyn wright Posted August 23 Author Report Share Posted August 23 Thanks again Johny! I will have a look at the one thats on there 145700 Mk1 Guage and will try this one I took off T B, although I did you said on putting the other gauge on I attached a earth wire! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 23 Report Share Posted August 23 Yes for this type to work the gauge actually has three connections to it B, T and earth all of which must be connected correctly👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johny Posted August 23 Report Share Posted August 23 Try the FG gauge with B and T correct plus its casing well earthed... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Truman Posted August 23 Report Share Posted August 23 7 hours ago, martyn wright said: FG2333/05 Is a non stabalised Guage for a Mk2 Vitesse No Stock? Interesting my Vitesse Mk2 Handbook Circuit diagram shows the source to the fuel sender ex fuel gauge (item 41) as voltage stabilised supply (item 40) & the sender (item 42) which has 2 connections source wire green and black and earth black wire. My fuel sender was replaced around 72 when my mother in law who was a jinx with the Vitesse, she got in and the fuel gauge immediately went from 3/4 to empty. I used to try and limit her to the wife's 12/50 no issues there. She once tried to get into the back seat of the Vitesse and got stuck between the raised front seat, the B post, the rear seat squab, and the roof headlining, we needed Benny Hill to help, and she was less than 5ft2in tall & not big, just awkward?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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