Blocked CDSE carbs fitted to MK2 Vitesse

[Paul H]

Hi , Vittesse suddenly became lumpy with reduced power especially on hills - I thought it was an air leak in the advance retard pipe as found a split in the right angle bend - Made a temp fix with amalgam tape and whilst improved the lumpyness is still there . Normally I can see fuel in the joining pipe between  the 2 carbs - this now appears to empty so need to clean the carbs to remove the crud  - Is there an online guide to assist as this is new to me - Currently there is no inline filter ( apart from the gauze in the pump) any recommendations as to type & where to locate would be appreciated  

 

Best regards 

 

Paul 

[Guest]

Hello Paul.

 

CDSE carbs are for emission controlled vehicles and were significant in the export market to the USA.

 

In the main, GT6's of that emission era (I think) and I'm sure I will be corrected were subject to these controls and as such had these carbs fitted. Additionally and probably more importantly the needle and jet may / probably are different from what your Mk2 should have. You should a pair of 6AC.

 

With regard to stripping down and cleaning out, the Stromberg's are similar for this purpose so any decent WSM / Haynes will suffice - it goes in to detail so ideal for your task. 

 

With regard to in-line fuel filters, you have 2x options:

 

1. plastic disposable ones which are absolutely fine - make sure they are big otherwise flow will be restricted OR

 

2.  the glass washable filter type often seen on Ebay.

 

I use the plastic disposable versions on both my cars and are A1.

 

With regard to the clear plastic fuel hose, get rid of it as it's not correct for the fuel line integrity. If you are sourcing new fuel pipe I would advise getting pipe that is coded R9; which is the best hose you can get to combat any ethanol problems and pipe degrading. 

 

If you are struggling to get information on carb strip down (wait for the onslaught of replies via the Forum !!) I'm happy to scan & send some documents that will assist.

 

Finally, it may well be worth you locating a correct set of 150 CD carbs for your car and if necessary have them overhauled - the difference will be very noticeable.

 

Best wishes & good luck.

 

Richard.

[Simon]

Good info online herehttp://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Carbs/CarbsI/CarbsI.htm

[Guest]

Hello.

 

Stromberg differences:

 

CD: Uses a machined bar for cold start that restricts air and lifts the main piston when choked.

CDS: Uses a "starting box" instead of a machined bar. It's a simple setup of a plate with different-sized holes in it. 

CDSE: Same as CDS, but adds a temperature compensator, throttle bypass valve, idle trimming screw, and a leak balancing screw.

 

Regards.

 

Richard.

[Paul H]

Hello Paul.

 

CDSE carbs are for emission controlled vehicles and were significant in the export market to the USA.

 

In the main, GT6's of that emission era (I think) and I'm sure I will be corrected were subject to these controls and as such had these carbs fitted. Additionally and probably more importantly the needle and jet may / probably are different from what your Mk2 should have. You should a pair of 6AC.

 

With regard to stripping down and cleaning out, the Stromberg's are similar for this purpose so any decent WSM / Haynes will suffice - it goes in to detail so ideal for your task. 

 

With regard to in-line fuel filters, you have 2x options:

 

1. plastic disposable ones which are absolutely fine - make sure they are big otherwise flow will be restricted OR

 

2.  the glass washable filter type often seen on Ebay.

 

I use the plastic disposable versions on both my cars and are A1.

 

With regard to the clear plastic fuel hose, get rid of it as it's not correct for the fuel line integrity. If you are sourcing new fuel pipe I would advise getting pipe that is coded R9; which is the best hose you can get to combat any ethanol problems and pipe degrading. 

 

If you are struggling to get information on carb strip down (wait for the onslaught of replies via the Forum !!) I'm happy to scan & send some documents that will assist.

 

Finally, it may well be worth you locating a correct set of 150 CD carbs for your car and if necessary have them overhauled - the difference will be very noticeable.

 

Best wishes & good luck.

 

Richard.

Hi Richard , when I purchased the vitesse in Jan this year the carbs were off a 2.5 saloon . They were shot and as the wrong carbs no good for donor . All I could get at the time for an outright purchase at a reasonable price was the CDSE , they were refurb and specked up by Turner carbs for the vitesse MK 2 . The carbs work really well and the engine fires first time with the engine very responsive with no flat spots . I don't know the fuel economy yet though feel they might be running a tad rich . Re the filters do they fit before the pump and do they have to be vertical . Please feel free to comment on the suitability of the CDSE in your opinion

Best regards

[dougbgt6]

Don't be put off by the buckeye site talking about Stromberg 175s, they essentially  work the same as your carbs.

[Pete Lewis]

and the pipe you refer to is the link pipe for the choke as the rear carb choke is fed from the front carb  should only have fuel in this 

when choke is in or just been in operation,

     wouldnt worry about the hose spec its not under any pressure and was originally a clear tube all them  years ago.

 

 

cdse will work fine if its got the correct needles fitted.  but you are restricted to having adjustment made from the top of the damper not the simple underside jet adjuster of a cdS   

 

Pete

[dougbgt6]

"originally a clear tube all them  years ago."

 

Mine still is. 

[Pete Lewis]

have you spoke to the doctor about it       Ha !!

[Guest]

Hello Paul.

 

Prior to this thread, your carbs were running well so I think the CDSE's are working on your car fine and with the other added comments all should be fine. 

 

It is very likely that you have got some muck in the carb, so a carb strip & clean will do the job.

 

Some owners place the filter (where applicable) between the fuel tank and pump. However some cars do not have a section of rubber to cut in to; hence the majority owners (count me in) place the filter between the pump & carb.

 

Keep the filter fairly horizontal, not super critical, but what is important is to ensure the arrow on the fuel filter body points TOWARDS the carbs.

 

Some owners also place a one-way valve but if your carbs are retaining fuel and the car fires up after a couple of key turns then that may not worth getting. They only cost a few quid so worth thinking about it if necessary.

 

Best wishes.

 

Richard.

[Paul H]

Update.... Stripped the carbs, and found loads of grit etc , all cleaned and engine running fine , tickover is now under control, and the power is back. One issue the starter assembly is weeping , very minor . What would be causing this .

 

Thanks for help so far , appreciated

[dougbgt6]

You mean there's a leak from the starter motor housing? Normally pretty dry in there, take the starter motor off and have a look.

[Paul H]

You mean there's a leak from the starter motor housing? Normally pretty dry in there, take the starter motor off and have a look.

No leak is coming from from carb starter assembly where the choke is located

[dougbgt6]

Ah! Ha!    There's another thread on here about leaks in this area. Worth a look. Not sure if they resolved the "is there a gasket for everything, or not" issue.

 

 

http://forum.tssc.org.uk/index.php?/topic/1481-stromberg-cdse-start-valve-and-adjustment/