Darren Groves Posted December 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2016 Hi Roger, Yes, seem to have made good progress in the last couple of weeks, probably due to doing all of the jobs on the conversion that didn't stop me using the car, so now it's just the under bonnet bits. Hope to have it running in the next couple of weeks, time permitting. Know the feeling about getting bogged down, my Fuel Tank solution was much simpler than yours though, plus I bought a spare so it was just a matter of swapping over. Keep us posted with progress. Darre Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted December 30, 2016 Report Share Posted December 30, 2016 Hello All Some progress today? I have welded/brazed the fuel tank so now it should be fuel tight(I think I will use some tank sealant first as there is only 2 holes below the fuel line) I fitted the baffle with 2 x 4 mm steel screws and nuts that have been brazed over(I fitted the screws from the inside? how I hear you ask? I soft soldered them to a length of 1/16" welding wire and just heated them up when fitted to get the wire off) I drilled 4 x 4 mm holes about 10/12 mm from the base and there is the 5 mm hole I used to hold it in position about 50 mm up from base (tested the flow by cutting the side off 5lt plastic bottle and drilling 4 x 4 mm holes and it took about 45 secs to flow 1lt out. I have been thinking(dangerous) about the tank vent at the moment it is just the hole in the filler cap and the tank vent is blocked off. We occasionally get a fuel smell in the hot weather(just a memory?) and I was thinking will there be more fumes with the return being pumped into the tank? and perhaps I should install a pipe from the tank vent down and to the rear of the car? Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted December 31, 2016 Report Share Posted December 31, 2016 Hello All I thought I would test the pump today ready for fitting into tank I put into a watering can full of diesel and put the pump outlet back in through the spout. I switched it on and I thought I had bought a duff pump as I could not hear it running(B*****r I thought ) but I had got the radio on in the garage so I turned it off and bingo it was pumping like a good one(panic over) I tested with a meter to see what current it draws and it is 4 amps and when I put my finger over the end I sprayed diesel everywhere so it pumps ok? I also checked the flow unrestricted and it is about 4 to 4.5 lt/min I dont think I will be able to hear it in operation and it only runs for 2 seconds on switch on unless there in crank rotation(ie it stops if the engine stops) but I do have a safety cut out switch that I fitted when I went to electric pump 5 years ago. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Groves Posted January 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2017 Had a few small parcels arrive today, so managed to get some of the niggly bits done. I wasn't happy with the fuel hose clips I had fitted, plus I was a couple short, so I swapped them for some slightly smaller and better fittings ones, so that is the fuel supply and return done. Just need to fire up the pump, set the required pressure and check for leaks. Decided to replace the TPS sensor on the Throttle Body with a new one just to be sure, also tidied up the throttle cable linkage with a couple of penny washers at the adjuster and a better fitting solderless nipple. The Air ducting from Throttle Body to filter also cut to length and fitted. A last check at the fusebox with a multi-meter to be sure they were being powered correctly, couldn't resist a quick switch on just to make sure the fuel pump came to life, which it did. If the fuel lines don't leak when under pressure, then I am mighty close to trying to get he started. Getting a little nervous now as the software side of it looks a little daunting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted January 3, 2017 Report Share Posted January 3, 2017 Hello Darren Good luck it will be ok it may run like an old Diesel tractor but will get better? I am a long way off I keep altering things and making myself more work! But I do not expect the car to be on the road before March/April Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Groves Posted January 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2017 Hi Roger, I am desperately trying not rush anything but patience isn't a quality that I posses much of, but it's better to be longer doing the job and get it right and how you want it. I spent a few hours on the car today, amongst other things I wanted to calibrate the 02 sensor and test the fuel system for leaks. After some head scratching as to why the pump and 02 sensor would only stay powered for a couple of seconds, I then remembered that they are fed by the same relay which is earthed through the ECU, which won't stay powered if the car isn't cranking or running. This was only after rechecking the wiring and moving the earth for the 02 sensor. I knew this, I've read it several times, but nothing much stays in my head these days..... I am hoping the 'Tune Analyze Live' function in Tunerstudio is going to get it running to a reasonable state, but that does rely on me getting it running and idling half decent first. Keep up the good work and keep us updated. Darren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted January 8, 2017 Report Share Posted January 8, 2017 Hello All A bit more progress? The fuel tank is ready to refit at last! I have used Slosh sealant on the inside and galvanised and gloss black paint on the out side(It should not rot through in my life time) I have glued some black felt onto it since the photos. I have also mounted the fuel pressure regulator on baulkhead were the electic pump used to be. I have painted the inlet manifolds black to match the throttle bodies. Just waiting for the exhaust manifold gasket so I can fit the exhaust and inlet manifolds and a new seal for the tank gauge. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Groves Posted January 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2017 Well done Roger, looking good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted January 8, 2017 Report Share Posted January 8, 2017 Hello Darren The Tank is back in (bit of a fight!) but now I find the original feed is only 1/4"? so I will have to run 2 new lines in 8mm the fun goes on? I am happy with the tank mods I like to think a bit like a factory job? and the filter will just fit under the tank behind the the mills? board so nothing under the car. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Groves Posted January 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2017 Hi Roger, Undoubtedly your tank mods are very professional in their appearance, so well done. I'm not entirely happy with my pump being where it is on the boot outrigger, but it was the simplest solution to the problem. Might re-investigate at a later date but as long as it's functional for the moment. Had to do a new double fuel pipe run on mine also as it was originally 1/4". Strangely my old Vitesse tank which i removed was a 1/4" tube on the pick up, but the one I bought to modify and subsequently fitted was 5/16" so didn't need to be changed. Presumably Triumph used a mixture of fuel line sizes. Darren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Groves Posted January 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2017 Haven't had that much time on the conversion recently, but I did do a little on the crankcase ventilation. My engine has suffered from excessive crankcase pressure for a while (have another waiting in the wings), so as I needed to make a blanking plate for the now redundant fuel pump I thought I'd add a 16mm breather tube to it, this should help expel some of the unwanted pressure. I also decided to swap back to a standard crankcase cover rather the the current alloy one, this is because I wanted to increase the size of the breather tube from 13mm to 16mm and have it exiting from the other side, it was easier to do on a steel one. The original 13mm tube will be removed and blanked off. Both breather tubes will vent to atmosphere via rubber hoses run to under the car, I may decide to add a catch tank at some point, but that's a job for another day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted January 10, 2017 Report Share Posted January 10, 2017 Hello Darren Is there any form of baffle behind the crankcase breather? I am going to do the same and I was thinking of blocking the rocker cover one off? The new exhaust manifold and inlet manifolds are now fitted and you can see the heat shield I am going to fit and the air box when finished? I think I will put the air temperature sensor in the air box? then in theory the ECU can adjust to suit the air temperature entering the engine! I have just ordered some of this hose, I thought about some nice shiny s/s type but I may finish altering things so this is a cheaper option and I know it is up to spec(not sure about some the stuff on offer?) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251175712377 I think tomorrow I will refit the exhaust system and look into running the 2 new fuel lines under the car. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Groves Posted January 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2017 Hi Roger, I did put a baffle behind the new tube, but the clearance to the rocker shaft is less on this side so had to taper it a little. Incidentally the Alloy cover I have doesn't have anything. I think there are pros and cons for mounting the MAT sensor both near the TB's or further down near a remote filter as I have done, Nick on the Sideways forum did explain, don't think it matters too much. I've used PTFE fuel line to and from the fuel rail, but similar R9 spec as you've ordered everywhere else. I found the 12-14mm hose clips fitted the best, just in case you haven't got those yet. Darren Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Groves Posted January 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2017 Got a little more time on the car today, enough to set the fuel pressure at 3 bar and there are no leaks , the only slight downer here was the fuel pump, as it is noisier than I hoped. It won't be heard when driving I'm sure but it's noticeable, though for now as long as it works it's something I can live with and revisit later. I then tried to start her up, a little splutter but nothing. Had a little while trying to see how to set up the Fast Idle valve then thought I'd try again and this time she burst into life. Wouldn't run without keeping the revs up, but happily restarted several times and revved quite happily, had to call it a day as I needed to add coolant and time was getting on. Now the fun begins.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted January 11, 2017 Report Share Posted January 11, 2017 Hello Darren A Historic Day? I have fitted the throttle bodies fully now and the heat shield(which I had to shorten by 2" as I could not reach the nuts on back?) I have also fitted the throttle linkage(just 2 pull of springs to finish fitting) I made up a fuel pump cable with plug to suit pump so just needs connecting to the relay/fuse/safety switch. I did not get around to fitting the exhaust or new fuel lines(tomorrow when snowed in?) not that I have to go out I don't do that WORK thing! Still waiting for the vacuum hose(they sent the wrong size but it will do for a fuel tank breather) and fuel hose still there is light at the end of the tunnel or a train coming. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted January 12, 2017 Report Share Posted January 12, 2017 Hello All Finished fitting the throttle body pull ff springs then started on the fuel lines. I removed the old one and was working out how to fit the new ones and decided I needed some pipe clips so I can do the job properly? So I ordered some of these. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/131817562225?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&var=431176153014&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT So that has halted work on that( It does not take much to stop me on these COLD days) So I have made a front cover for the air box I have made. Then I was thinking about fitting the fuel tank sender(I have bought new seal and locking ring)and I do not wan't the new ring to finish up looking like the old one so I decided to make a tool to fit it. Still undecided on trumpets one the throttle intakes? Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted January 13, 2017 Report Share Posted January 13, 2017 Hello All A bit of progress today. Fuel and vacuum tube arrived so I have been working on these. I found the fuel line to be a VERY tight fit on the fuel rail(I don't think it would come off without clips?) I got carried away with the vacuum pipes and decided to make a manifold with 6 ports instead of having several tee pieces(see photos) which I thought will give a bit of a smoothing effect? It is a piece of aluminium tube 12.5mm o/d 7.25mm i/d x 350mm long I do not have any trumpets yet I was thinking of perhaps some of these? http://www.ebay.co.u...=STRK:MEBIDX:IT Or getting some aluminium and making something like this? http://www.ebay.co.u...r0AAOSw3YNXYS~A What do you think? Roger 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Groves Posted January 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 After spending an hour trying to set-up the IAC valve and failing, I decided to just get the engine warmed up and idling by using the adjustment on the Throttle Body. This is just using the fuel tables that were on the ECU, so needs some work yet, but doesn't sound too bad as a starting point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted January 15, 2017 Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 Hello Darren Another GOOD result I do not think I am going to bother with the IAC valve at this stage as my throttle bodies have the normal screws to hold the throttle plates open(in pairs) and a bleed screw on each body to balance them indvidualy with my carb balancer for any difference in suction(I think that will keep me quiet for a long time?) I have fitted the water pipe across the manifold and the air temperature sensor. I have ordered a few 8mm couplers so I can make a better job of the fuel lines (I think?) Its slow progress as I keep getting side tracked and changing things so it looks better(I think?) Still its a long time until march? Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted January 18, 2017 Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 Hello All I have decided to get 4 of these the 25mm ones http://www.ebay.co.u...wx_eUSCzQCuYMiw They do 4 for £60 and seeing the aluminium would cost me £24 and a lot of machining plus the difficulty of get then all the same plus I would have to make a jig to hold them for machining! They will leave 40mm space in front which according to this site is right (ie the same as the choke size 40mm) http://www.nsxprime...._Sept._2006.pdf I am going to run 2 x 50mm hoses into the air box and try and fit a K&N on the other end! Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Groves Posted January 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 Today was the first drive, done around 40 miles and used Analyze Live to improve the tune. At the end of the run the car was driving nicely and a quick check of the plugs and they're the most biscuity brown I have ever had in 20 years of owning the car. So without too much effort I have an acceptable idle and it feels good when warm. The car sounds different, I guess it's lost the noise of the induction through the twin carbs? It's still a bit tricky to get going from cold, I keep pushing up the cranking pulse but obviously can only test once a day. She drives well during warm-up, but as it's lacking the IAC valve idle is naturally too low until warm. I bought 2 more IAC valves the same as the original for not much money, so if I end up with 3 I can't do anything with then I know it's not the units themselves. Can always keep them for stock or sell on. Everyday a little more progress! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted January 27, 2017 Report Share Posted January 27, 2017 Hello All I have made some progress today and some backwards steps First all fuel lines finished and double checked so I put 17lt of fuel in the tank(1/2 capacity according to the manual) So I powered the pump direct off the battery and just like you no leaks but the gauge was showing 2.5 bar so I adjusted the regulator to 3 bar. But then I thought is the gauge accurate so I fitted a second one in the line at front of injectors and powered up again and they both agreed but now showing 3.5 bar? So readjusted regulator back to 3 bar and started and stopped several times(regulator screw back to starting place?) I wonder if a small bit of debris got caught under valve seat?(I thought I had kept it all clean blowing through line before connection) But now I have a problem with the fuel gauge as it only reads 1/4 full ( spent a lot of time offering up to position and tweaking the arm as used to read low before) Now I wonder If fault the gauge it self? (I have an electronic regulator fitted? well a 10 volt regulator chip built into the original can! not paying £10 for a 50p component) So just the exhaust to refit and Lambda sensor wiring to finish off and will be ready with fingers crossed to try and start it. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted January 28, 2017 Report Share Posted January 28, 2017 Hello All A bit more progress exhaust fitted(well most just back boxes to fit) Air box fitted but unfortunatley I rush the paint job and it has all wrinkled(still will do for now) Sorted a bit more cabling out and put sleeves around fuel pipes were they may chaff and cliped down. I think tomorrow I will see if I can set the throttle plates to be in sync and finish pump wiring. Then should be about ready to try and fire her up(I may check all wiring first?) then the fun will start? I am pleased with the fuel filter position under the tank. I went with the 25 mm trumpets to give more space in front of them and I thought No1 would obstruct the air flow if any longer? Roger 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Groves Posted January 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2017 That's all looking very good Roger, can't be long now until you try and start it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted January 30, 2017 Report Share Posted January 30, 2017 Hello All A bit more progress exhaust fought back on!(mine has the center box and if you do not get it in the middle it rattles on the body)but it does make it a nice sound for a twin pipe type and not to loud. I have wired in the lambda sensor and display. So I thought today I would wire up the fuel pump so had a look at were Triumph run the cables and guess what the passenger seat is now out seat belt diconnected(to lift the carpet) hood frame unbolted and the trim revoved off the 1/4 panel!!!!!! All this to run a cable through? So just the reverse to do now and of course connect the pump cable. Still getting closer to trying to start it(I think it may be getting to me as I dreamt last night that it started and sounded good but then the brakes did not seem to be working? but I woke up then!) Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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