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Front suspension damper bush removal


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Tonight was my first opportunity to put the advice received into action. Success! I've got the offside back on. The trolley jack is definitely the way to go. Just the other side to do!

Wayne - how big are the Jerry cans you're using?

Thanks folks. Your help is priceless!

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The static weight to load the car with before tightening the suspension bolts is 300lbs (136kg) spread evenly across the car in front of the rear axle. I use 5x25 litre plastic jerry cans (3 behind the seats and one on each of the seats) - figuring the missing 11kgs is neither here nor there.  The most important thing is not to put your back out lifting the jerry cans into the car!

 

A simpler option of course is to get two people to sit in the car whilst you do the torquing up. You just need to make sure that they're both about 10.5 stones 

 

Wayne

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Yes rent a crowd or bags of sand , for any static geometry needs

 

Doug, Dont think we will be doing wallingford this year , (has bad memories of impact on a herald)

and other runs are planned for a change but if the suns out and im free , who knows

Why does this ruddy tablet keep using leters for space bar

Grrr nuts

 

pete

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Oh. OK. I should look at the WSM. I had thought I needed 4 friends or about 60 gallons of water..... Thanks again. Got the nearside road spring in tonight. Put up more fight. Maybe 2 glasses of wine before starting was a bad idea. Anyway ran out of energy trying to get ARB reconnected. The war of attrition continues!

All the best

Richard

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All back together now. 4 wheels on the floor first time since about November. Just need to load her up and tighten it all.

Thanks again for all your support and advice. It's much appreciated that you take the time to share your knowledge.

Richard

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Richard,

 

Glad it's all back together. Before you load up the car it would be an idea to bounce the suspension up and down to generally get things settled in roughly the right position (I imagine the front is sitting quite high just now) If possible try driving the car gently around in circles a couple of times get the front camber back to where it should be.

 

Wayne  

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Yes - exactly right - riding high and both front wheels tucked under a little at the bottom.

 

Forgive the question - but back to static loading - when WSM says 150lbs on each seat - that would suggest 600lbs in a Vitesse but 300lbs in a GT6? Is that right?

 

Easter's project is a new greenhouse - so I've got several bags of sand (3 stone each)  and hard-core (4 stone each)  for the base foundations. They may be diverted temporarily!

 

With regards to driving in circles - you'll no doubt guess what's coming next.....having had the front end up in the air all winter of course it won't start. Had thought it was just starved of petrol (was left pretty much empty) - so put in a fresh gallon. Turned the ignition to try and pump it through. Ended up with petrol dripping out of the bottom of the front carb.  (and so stopped!).

 

Will go back to basics to see why it's not firing - but could the carbs be suffering for being left with the air filter box off for a few months? Something dried up or evaporated or something?

 

Thanks once more!

Richard

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Richard,

 

I forgot you were working on a Vitesse and got fixated on GT6 figures. I confess to being unsure whether or not you double the weight for a four-seater (i.e. 600lb), though to my mind it seems logical that you would do this. Hopefully someone with a broader range of knowledge than me (and there will be plenty of those!) can confirm for you one way or the other.

 

As far as the dripping fuel is concerned I would start with the assumption that the float needle has stuck/got blocked on the front carb. I think you should be able to get at this easily enough by dropping the float bowl, letting the float dangle and unscrewing the float needle. Work the pin up and down a few times to un-stick it and screw it back in, making sure you don't lose the aluminium washer. Make sure the float bowl is free of debris before you refit it. When I first got my GT6 I went through a period when the carbs seemed to be taking it in turns to play this trick and I got quite adept at clearing the needles at the road-side. I'd try to avoid disturbing the fuel hoses connecting the carbs to the brass fuel pipes if I were you because this can produce yet more slivers of rubber to block the needle valve.

 

Good luck

 

Wayne 

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the WSM says on each seat  there is no static heights given   just weights 

  just lucky its not a bus !!!

 

      on Commer vans there was a set height you put blocks in and loaded till it bottomed on the blocks ,  then forgot to take them out and 

lost them on road test and had to go and retrieve the blasted things from the Wipsnade test route   we made a sign up for the dash it just said

 

 ' BLOCKS'

 

pete

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I appreciate I'm now going to be writing in the wrong section of the forum.....but thinking it's better to "keep the thread" so here goes !

 

I've started to look at taking the float chamber off the front carb. Couldn't work out why it won't budge with 5 bolts removed. I now see from WSM that there are 6 bolts! This is fairly typical of my progress to date! :)

 

Anyways - I also note in the WSM it says to replace the gasket.

My carbs were relatively recently rebuilt (by company mentioned elsewhere on the forum) . Prior to my ownership - so about 2-3 years ago. I wonder if a new gasket is absolutely necessary? Wayne - did you swap your gaskets each time your needles stuck? I appreciate my experience likely to be different - but wondering if I should at least have a gasket to hand in case I need it.

 

Also - whilst on the back to basics trail - I took all the spark plugs out. All sooty as anything - so cleaned them up (one at a time so as not to mix up the leads).

Had a go at turning the ignition with a plug lead disconnected to see if it sparked to the block & it tried to fire up (though I saw no spark?). Connected it again and no sign of firing. Same happened with plug 1 and plug 6.

 

Finally  - were some cars fitted with solenoids without a starter switch? Damned if I can find it under the bonnet!

 

So - there you have it. Even the "basics" have me stumped!

Feel a proper numpty now. :rolleyes:

Richard

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Hi Richard,

 

I've had my float bowls off half a dozen times without fitting new gaskets and there has been no leakage. I think that providing there is no obvious damage you should be OK to reuse the old float bowl gasket.

 

I can't properly answer your question about the solenoid/starter switch question I'm afraid. I know my GT6 Mk3 doesn't have the button which allows you to turn over the engine on the starter from under the bonnet but I remember that my dad's old Triumph 2000 did. I think that if you do have that facility then it would be on the body of the starter solenoid. 

 

Good luck

 

Wayne

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I would move this to a fueling wont start topic

 

the old gasket is probably fine for a few refits

over the evolution there are a number of gaskets that all look similar but some wont seal in odd corners

 

Is this to remove the float valve,

 

look up buckeyebtriumphs for good clues about strombergs

 

pete

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  • 4 weeks later...

Not sure if this has been moved but it may be worth running some fine emery or crocus paper between the points to just give them a clean. I used to do this "back in the day" after leaving my car standing for months whilst at sea.

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