Seat Belt Bolt - Vitesse Mk2 Saloon

[Paul H]

Having difficulty removing the passenger side seat belt bolt ( by the door ) Is it a captive nut ? see pic 

 

Regards 

Paul 

 

[david lewis]

i had hell of a job getting mine out,i cleaned an lubed the bolt under the sill with wd 40 then put a very long screwdriver through the eye inside the car and worked it back and fore giving it a squirt of wd 40 every now and then and it fought me all the way but eventually came out--took me ages.

good luck

[Guest]

Paul.

 

You will probably find it easier to use something like Plus Gas or another type of rust freeing fluids and let it soak in over night or at least a few hours.

 

WD40 is a moisture dipersant and lubricating fluid. Great to use when things are starting to free off, but the inital freeing off requires a purpose made fluid and that's not the remit of WD40.

 

Regards.

 

Richard.

[Paul H]

Paul.

 

You will probably find it easier to use something like Plus Gas or another type of rust freeing fluids and let it soak in over night or at least a few hours.

 

WD40 is a moisture dipersant and lubricating fluid. Great to use when things are starting to free off, but the inital freeing off requires a purpose made fluid and that's not the remit of WD40.

 

Regards.

 

Richard.

Thanks Richard will give the bolt a dosing of Plus Gas . The Gearbox Tunnel side came off easy enough - Too easy just held on by 2 threads 

Regards

Paul 

[juppy]

Paul,

I tend to use a combination of a screw driver and a pair of mole grips for the part of the rotation that you can't use the screw driver for due to it hitting the body work. I think when the cars were made the assembly line used something similar to plumbers mate on the threads and it is this that makes the eyebolts so stiff. Oh and a good dose of brute strength.  

[Steve C]

And if you will forgive me for doom-mongering, if things run true to usual form, you may find the inside face of the spreader plate to be heavily corroded, and the floor pan metal to boot. I ended up letting new metal in on both sides, and fitting huge washers in place of the plates, which were too shot to re-use. Ah the joy of playing with old motors!

 

Regards

 

Steve

[Paul H]

Success ! 3 days of Plus Gas . Used a 27 MM socket , fits over the bolt eye plus breaker bar . This started the bolt , then finished with long handled torque wrench , set at max . Surrounding metal , plate is fine so no repairs here

Thanks for advice

Paul

[Pete Lewis]

i was going to suggest a old socket,  angle grind a slot to take the head of the eye and 4 shreaded wheat for breaky  but youve won 

 

keep at it  

 

Pete

[Guest]

Well done Paul; good work.

 

I would use some copper slip when reassembling; which gives you an easier start next time around, should there be one. 

 

Regards.

 

Richard.

[Paul H]

New bolts in with copper grease added. New inertia belts fitted purchased from the Club Shop

[Steve C]

Tip when fitting inertia belts. They have an infuriating habit of locking up when you need it least when fitting (which is what they are supposed to do really, but it is a pain when fitting..). You then have to hold the reel vertical and ever so gently draw out the belt and start all over again. It is one of those three-handed jobs!

A good pair of office bulldog clips clamped on to the withdrawn belt will give you the chance to get all the fittings in place, and won't damage the webbing. Remember the reel units are supposed tombe vertical on most of them. The Fitchett kit comes with wedge-shaped backing plates to facilitate this.

 

Regards

 

Steve C