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Synchro Rings


Darren Groves
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Further to my recent post about fitting an OD Gearbox of unknown condition, it did turn out to have a couple of weak synchro rings. As all the new stuff around is of dubious quality I have bought some OE used items, so my question is how to you identify a good one from a not so good one? Or is it a matter of trial and error?

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I watched a well known gearbox builder rebuild Red Spit's. He had a bag full of syncro rings and must have spent half an hour just putting different ones together and feeling how they ... well, how they felt! He swapped them round, rejecting some instantly, keeping others and swapping them round until he was satisfied. Even then he would go back and try and improve on what he had.

 

My observation was, it's all in the feel and there's no substitute for experience!

 

(Not much help to you, I know)

 

Richard

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you should wring the baulk ring onto the cone with a good firm rotational grip, it should grab the cone and lock on

there should be a gap between the ring and the dog teeth,

 

the gear dog teeth must have a well defined 55deg angle chamfered on the end of the dog tooth, and a same on the sliding sleeve

its these angles that allow baulk and rock over when synchronised, if all rounded, blurred and chimbled look for some replacements

 

make sure you get the correct springs in the sleeves 1/2 is different to 3/4 easy to make too weak or too strong.if mixed up.

 

regards Pete

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you should wring the baulk ring onto the cone with a good firm rotational grip, it should grab the cone and lock on

there should be a gap between the ring and the dog teeth,

 

 

Thanks for the replies.

 

Pete - I did test the above, all locked nicely with a good air gap between, which was the main reason for fitting it without doing any work.

 

Think I'll buy up any OE synchro rings I come across and take everything up to Mike Papworth.

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