rogerguzzi Posted January 30, 2017 Report Share Posted January 30, 2017 Hello all I am in the process of fitting EFI to my spitfire and I am thinking the Alternator is not going to be up to the job as the fuel pump runs all the time and pulls 7.5amps At the moment I have a Lucas ACR 15 fitted which is 25amp I was thinking of one of these type http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Denso-12-14v-Alternator-/282341548231?hash=item41bcde20c7:g:BIMAAOSw5cNYjQW8 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nippon-Denso-small-Caterham-Westfield-race-alternator-kubota-yanmar-/332108148633?hash=item4d53302f99:g:Ml8AAOSw44BYjvDu What do you all think? Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomL Posted January 30, 2017 Report Share Posted January 30, 2017 Hi Roger, I've had one of these on the Vitesse for a good few years now and it's proved a good, reliable mod. I have heated seats (and, in fact, electric windows) so demand is high but the little Denso alternator has performed well. The only thing I had to was change the pulley so that it rotated at the correct speed (I had to go smaller). Anyway, it's a positive recommendation from me. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted January 30, 2017 Report Share Posted January 30, 2017 Brilliant bit of kit. Had one on my Toledo (initially 1500 engine, now TR7) which has done approx 40K, including the RBRR where we spendt many many hours with 200W of lighting plus all the usual gubbins running. Just fitted one to the new spitfire engine, like your car it is EFI, and I have no concerns about power output etc. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted January 31, 2017 Report Share Posted January 31, 2017 The TR7 uses an 17ACR type which has a higher output the the Spit 16ACR. One of the causes for the failure of the regulator is draping the number one spark plug lead over the back of the Lucas ACR Alternator. The lead put a very high voltage field just above the regulator box and it causes the, 1960's, electronics to fail. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerekS Posted January 31, 2017 Report Share Posted January 31, 2017 An interesting observation that, Dave, the Spitfire 1500 is the same. I've just been out and re-routed mine; the alternator hasn't long been back on after a rebuild. Spot on, thankyou! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted January 31, 2017 Report Share Posted January 31, 2017 Spits, Toledos, Dolomites, later GT6, TR6 and the big Saloon, plus if you do an alternator conversion - Many of the after market plug leads are longer than original type and can drape over the back of the alternator. The plug leads are changed to improve things. A little time after fitting new leads the alternator goes wrong. You think well just like the plug leads its old that was the problem, so I will fit a new one. A little time later the replacement also goes wrong. Investigation showed the regulator box was failing due to the high voltage field. Dave 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted January 31, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2017 Hi Roger, I've had one of these on the Vitesse for a good few years now and it's proved a good, reliable mod. I have heated seats (and, in fact, electric windows) so demand is high but the little Denso alternator has performed well. The only thing I had to was change the pulley so that it rotated at the correct speed (I had to go smaller). Anyway, it's a positive recommendation from me. Tom Hello Tom What do you consider the correct speed? I have just bought a new one on Fleabay for £76 a proper Denso one not copy(I hope?) I think I will need a connector for ignition light and switched supply(will wait and see not going to fit it until I get the EFI working!) Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted February 1, 2017 Report Share Posted February 1, 2017 I managed to use small/narrow female spade connectors which are a perfect fit. But the correct plug would be better. I used the std pulley that came with the alternator, but had heard on "the grapevine" the digger alternators don't like to be revved. However, mine has not suffered. On the spit which redlines at north of 7k (which will be explored) I have fitted a slightly larger multi-v pulley. Actually a nice ally one, came off a lucas ACR type and fitted with the use if a spacer washer. All untested....as yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted February 1, 2017 Report Share Posted February 1, 2017 Triumph cars fitted with an alternator as standard - The manufacturer fitted a larger crank, bottom, pulley when they changed to the alternator. When modifying to an alternator from a dynamo if you use the original, smaller, pulley you may notice the ignition light come on at low tick over rpm. It will also to some extent reduce the output by a small amount. The big Mk2 Saloon, 1970's, was fitted with an alternator and this pulley fits the Vit/GT6 Mk2 engine. I can not remember what the diameter difference is. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted February 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2017 Triumph cars fitted with an alternator as standard - The manufacturer fitted a larger crank, bottom, pulley when they changed to the alternator. When modifying to an alternator from a dynamo if you use the original, smaller, pulley you may notice the ignition light come on at low tick over rpm. It will also to some extent reduce the output by a small amount. The big Mk2 Saloon, 1970's, was fitted with an alternator and this pulley fits the Vit/GT6 Mk2 engine. I can not remember what the diameter difference is. Dave Hello Dave This alternator is going on a Spitfire 1500 which came with alternator as new. I will measure the pulley on the Denso to see if different size I can always change it or make a new one. Roger 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted February 1, 2017 Report Share Posted February 1, 2017 One important thing I forgot, getting old, was if you fit a high output alternator, greater than 40 amps, then you will need to change the main supply wiring, large Brown/Yellow and large Brown leads, to handle the extra current. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomL Posted February 1, 2017 Report Share Posted February 1, 2017 Hi Roger, Not sure of the speed but I went for a 48mm pulley, to achieve the correct output at tickover. But this is on a Vitesse, which would have originally had a dynamo so, as Dave says, probably has the smaller crankshaft-pulley (which is probably why the previous Lucas alternator-conversion never quite seemed to keep the battery topped up!). Let us know how you get on. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted February 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2017 Hello All My new Nippondenso alternator has arrived and looks good. I did not realise how small they are? and 40amp output? I had to have a look under the regulator cover! and they certainly look well made and well insulated The pulley is about 5mm smaller than the Lucas one but the belt sits higher in the vee so they as near as dam it the same so it should run at the same speed as the Lucas one or even a touch up. I just have to modify the brackets now, I may look into making a turn buckle adjuster rather than just a slot. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted February 4, 2017 Report Share Posted February 4, 2017 Roger, a smaller alternator pulley makes the it run faster. A pulley larger than the original Lucas should be avoided. A smaller one is preferable. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted February 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2017 Hello All I have fitted the alternator after making a new spacer and opening the bracket up to 10mm. I just need a plug(may wait until Stoneleigh and have a look around) and a turn buckle for adjustment. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave.vitesse Posted February 5, 2017 Report Share Posted February 5, 2017 A GT6 top bracket maybe long enough. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted February 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2017 Hello All I decided to buy!!!!!! an adjustable tie rod and I am pleased with the result plus there is enough adjustment to allow me to fit any of the spare belts I have 1088, 1090, 1100 lenght Just waiting for a connector plug to finish the job off properly? As to the main feed wire I will check the size when I take the old connector off but mine is a very late Spitfire and they were fitted with 16 ACR alternators which I think are 36amp output and the cable looks very thick. Plus there will be no chance of the plug lead draping over the Alternator now? Roger Plus I need a 110 mm x 10 mm bolt not the bit of all thread fitted now? I can get one at Stoneleigh 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren Groves Posted February 7, 2017 Report Share Posted February 7, 2017 Hi Roger, If it's a single cable from from your old alternator I suspect it may be 42amp, I would add an additional cable or replace with some 50amp Thin Wall. Darren 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted February 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 Hello Darren I checked the main cable(cut a bit off and counted and measured the strands) 65 x 0.30 4.5 mm sq = 35amp I have some 50 amp left over from another job so I will double up as the original goes into the dash area and back out again. I going to call at Screwfix tomorrow to get some proper ends 6mm hole x 6mm then I will crimp and solder them on. Roger 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogerguzzi Posted February 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2017 Hello All well my bargin was not such a bargin? After fitting and wiring it all up I was not getting the ignition light or any output. So wiring all double checked OK so remove the B*****r On removing the end cover and having a poke about I noticed that ALL the Stator wires were broken were they joined the diode pack(sorted I thought) So repaired them all and checked over no evidence of smoke escaping? So refit and test (nothing!!!!!!!!) no ignition light So decided it must be the regulator all windings checked out at the values you would expect? so instead of taking a chance on Fleabay I phoned these people and ordered the correct one only £2 to £3 more. http://www.jcrsupplies.co.uk/products/ALTERNATOR_REBUILD_PARTS Part arrived this morning so fitted and and tested I had the ignion light but no output It was then I remembered a comment I had seen on Tinterweb about leaving the sensing wire off (mine is mark P not S ?) It now works and reads 14.5volts when just off tick over I can not see the lack of sensing cable will be a problem as I have double up the main cable so it has the original 35a and a 50a to the battery so should be no voltage drop? So not such a bargin but not a disaster? Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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