mpbarrett Posted October 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2018 23 minutes ago, Nick Jones said: Huh.... and there was I thinking that Mike had a single rail matching his 1500...... (J-type helping cement that impression). Always read the OP properly...... Nick its ok I have looked at so many pictures of gearbox recently.... I almost brought a reversing lever for a single rail box off ebay before I realised what I was doing! Looking at the threaded fulcrum pivot bolt, that actually allows adjustment of the horizontal position of the lever, clever if that was part of the design.... At the moment it has a lot of free play in it. I will have a look at the 3 rail box on Sunday to see how it should be set up. There is not a lot about it in my old Vitesse BT workshop manual (it used a 3 rail box). BTW I have also brought a cheap 3 rail box off Ebay so I can have a play before I do anything to my gearbox cheers mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted October 12, 2018 Report Share Posted October 12, 2018 1 hour ago, mpbarrett said: that actually allows adjustment of the horizontal position of the lever, clever if that was part of the design.. I think that was what I was trying to say earlier? I have a GT6 box to investigate soon...... bound to be ugly in there - they nearly always are, and the input shaft is a bit floppy..... We also have RX8 and Mk2 MX5 gearboxes sat here (MX5 one cost £ 10!) but they really don't look like they want to go in - and that's coming from someone who squeezed a W58 5 speed into a Vitesse....... I do have another W58 but it's my pension! Nick 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 13, 2018 Report Share Posted October 13, 2018 the wsm simply says screw the pivot pin through the boss on the lever till its just flush with the end of of the threaded pin then fit the assy into the case so if the the nut is loosened on the outside this should allow rotation of the pin to fully engage the lever in the gear groove Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted October 13, 2018 Report Share Posted October 13, 2018 I thought the pin was splined Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpbarrett Posted October 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2018 25 minutes ago, thescrapman said: I thought the pin was splined yes it is but if its pushed out of the casing there might be enough movement to turn it to move the lever out. Or I could cut it and then make a new one that is locked in place with a nut on the inside. mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted October 13, 2018 Report Share Posted October 13, 2018 1 hour ago, mpbarrett said: yes it is but if its pushed out of the casing there might be enough movement to turn it to move the lever out. I think you will be able to do this as it's only a bit splined. Pretty sure I've done this in the past to adjust the amount of engagement between the pin and gear. Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpbarrett Posted October 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2018 So it continues.... I tried pushing the fulcrum pin out so that it was free of the spline but even when unscrewing it a bit the engagement wasn't good once it was pulled into the casing and the splines engaged. Next attempt was to push it so that the spline were only just engaged with the casing. This meant that the fixing nut on the outside could not be done up (I have seen some pictures of gearboxes with this pin in this state). My solution was to cut a U shaped wedge so that the pin can be clamped with the external nut. So now the arm is nearly in the right place and can be clamped. BUT there is a large burr on the inside of the casing from the original machining when it was made. this meant that as I clamped it in place it moved the fulcrum pin so that it was no longer square with casing, without all the splines engaged its a loose fit in the hole. This made it even worse and the pin on the operating came out of the groove on the reverse gear idler.... Not happy.... As Nic stated you really really cannot take the fulcrum pin out with out removing the reverse gear and shaft, which means taking the OD unit off the back of the gearbox.... Stripped my (new very cheap) spare box down, using my excellent TSSC training from the gearbox tutorial!!! And got the fulcrum pin and operating lever out. This one is a much better fit on the pin very little free movement. I then decided to cut the fulcrum pin in the gearbox and take the arm out to replace it. Did this by first drilling a hole down the bolt from the outside using a TCT drill, this reduced the amount of cutting I would need to do in the gearbox. Then used a Dremel tool with a 50mm disk to cut the bolt off, covered everything with damp rags to collect the dust from the grinding and used a large magnet to catch as much of the dust as possible. Have cleaned up the casing to get rid of the burr and turned a new bolt to come from the outside and clamped to the casing with a thin nut on the inside. This has allowed me to get the lever arm in the correct position. I have used the one from my spare box as this is a much better fit on the thread. See picture below. Does it work? Well it seem to when I tried it in the garage, the real test will be tomorrow when I try driving up and down the drive. If it works my only concerns is that the new bolt I made is not as hard as the original fulcrum pin, but its possible that it was hardened so that it would cut a spline in the casing when it was first tightened up. If this doesn't work the gearbox will be out and on its way to East Anglia... Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpbarrett Posted October 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2018 Seems to have fixed it! Drove around today and no problems at all with reverse gear, in fact its a much nicer change into reverse you can hear/feel the gears going together. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 23, 2018 Report Share Posted October 23, 2018 Thats a good one, Have you used any thread lock on the new post nuts, dont want it to go loose Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted October 23, 2018 Report Share Posted October 23, 2018 Champion bodge technical work-around..... probably still saved some effort! I echo Pete's question above (though suspect you were ahead of us on this) and add the delicate question of sealing method to the mix...... Incidentally, while rummaging in one of my bolt buckets at the weekend I happened across the very bolt which I butchered almost to the point of un-usability in the attempt to swap the lever without dismantling the box. I did that in 1989/90 ish and have moved house twice since then....... hoarding disorder..... moi? Surely not..... It may come in handy one day! Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpbarrett Posted October 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2018 1 hour ago, Nick Jones said: Champion bodge technical work-around..... probably still saved some effort! I echo Pete's question above (though suspect you were ahead of us on this) and add the delicate question of sealing method to the mix...... Incidentally, while rummaging in one of my bolt buckets at the weekend I happened across the very bolt which I butchered almost to the point of un-usability in the attempt to swap the lever without dismantling the box. I did that in 1989/90 ish and have moved house twice since then....... hoarding disorder..... moi? Surely not..... It may come in handy one day! Nick Nick keep it as there are no longer available anywhere! There is always Ebay to fund your next project by selling just the bolt...... Yes the bolt has been sealed and locked. Cheers mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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