Dolomitejohn Posted February 17, 2019 Report Share Posted February 17, 2019 Hi all I have just fitted a rebuild kit to my gear remote on the gt6 mk3. I have 2 issues. 1) the kit contained 2 red fibre washers. The Haynes book does not show these and also there were no fibre washers removed. Any ideas? 2) the metal spring washer that holds on the plastic ball and small spring was a bugger to get off. However the replacement had to be slid and tapped down the shaft of the gear stick. By the time it reached its slot it was bigger than the slot. I had to pinch it into the slot using pliers. It's mostly there but not as snug as the original. What should I do? Fit a spring clip?? If yes what size? Any ideas? Thank you all. John. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Lindsay Posted February 17, 2019 Report Share Posted February 17, 2019 Most suppliers will sell a kit that fits more than one gearbox type, so just replace what you took off, and you'll have a few bits left over. The little metal 'ring' that clamps onto the gearlever can be awkward to fit; if you've had to compress yours it should be alright as long as it doesn't slip off again. The clips supplied these days are just spring washers and are not as elastic as the originals, but you can also use a circlip of the appropriate size if you want, which will usually be more flexible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waynebaby Posted February 17, 2019 Report Share Posted February 17, 2019 John, As Colin says, I think that it's quite normal to find yourself with a random selection of bits left over from the remote linkage rebuild kit. My understanding is that the kit is designed to cover a number of applications and so you will find you don't need everything that comes in the bag. Regarding the clip which holds down the smaller spring, I found the hard way that the seating of this is critical to the longevity of the repair. If it comes out of the groove it allows the small but powerful spring to ping up and wreak havoc with the nylon dished washer (the one which appears to be manufactured from plasticised rice-paper) as well as letting the ball at the bottom of the lever to slide upwards. When this happens you're back to square one with gear selection. If you're not happy with what you have at the moment then it might be worth finding a suitable spring-washer for peace of mind. I'm afraid I don't know what size to suggest. Wayne Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 17, 2019 Report Share Posted February 17, 2019 the red washers are used on some in the centre pivot , not all have these the O rings are to seal the shrot shaft they fit inside the case, best left alone unless you have an oil leak in the tower, getting the dowel bolt out can be a challenge and then you slice the new O rings on reassembly ...leave alone do look at the metal cup they can have razor edges which mince the plastic cup , needs a quick deburr Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave the tram Posted February 23, 2019 Report Share Posted February 23, 2019 I am also reconditioning my GT6 mk3 extension and previously noted Pete's comment about leaving the O rings alone in my other thread. However, my main issue was that the reverse block plate had been destroyed and even the casing was worn into, so I've got hold of a perfect second hand extension casing from Mick Dolphin. This leaves me with no option but to remove and swap over the shaft and selector ball. I assume the locking bolt just unscrews, but any advice on how to remove and refit the roll pin/dowel bolt to remove the coupling fork would be useful. Also any tips on fitting the O rings succesfully. Cheers Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 23, 2019 Report Share Posted February 23, 2019 the dowel bolt is generally done up by a gorrilla you may even see that the fork does shuffle on the shaft even though the dowel is in mighty tight you must disconnect the extending remote rods to allow the fork to rotate and give access to the dowel getting on the blasted thing is the first snag i have used a upside down socket which with 1/4" drive fits the square head well , but finding a upside down socket that will accept a ratchet head is a fiddle and theres little room a brake adjusting square drive spanner may do the trick its easy to round it off if you use an adjustable as for fiting the O rings , pleanty of grease and a fine chamfer ground on the leading edge of the shaft should work , its easy to slice the new rings , insert very gentle dont get carried away and shove it . Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave the tram Posted February 23, 2019 Report Share Posted February 23, 2019 Thanks Pete, I think I understand that, and may wish I'd not started this job but don't think I have any option, other than try to remove the mangled reverse block plate and fit a new one, but I couldn't work out how to do that. I get the bit about the square headed bolt that holds the selector ball to the shaft, but still don't really understand what a dowel bolt is - sometimes called a roll pin in the manual, and how to remove and refit it. I have to remove the dowel bolt that holds the fork, and the square head bolt, in order to slide the shaft out forwards. Alternatively I could leave the fork attached to the rear of the shaft and instead remove the coupling from the front of the shaft, and slide the shaft out backwards. But the coupling seems to be held by a similar looking pin. I can't begin to fathom how to remove the dowel bolt/roll pin. I suppose If stuck I could buy all these required bits to build up the new extension casing. Cheers Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 23, 2019 Report Share Posted February 23, 2019 The main fork is held with dowel bolt , a square headed threaded bolt with a tapered end to locate and lock the fork on the shaft Often have a hole in the head to add a lock wire The rearward pivot fork is held with a knock out roll or spiral pin , drift hand hammer job. You dont need to remove this one To change the O rings in the hsg, you have to unscrew the dowel bolt and slide the shaft out of the fork and hsg. These threaded dowels can be a real swine to unscrew, the taper gets locked in the shaft Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolomitejohn Posted February 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2019 Hi all Thanks for the good advice. It's all back together now. I did not apply any locktite to the square head bolt so hope it holds. But the shift feels nice. Just want it back on the road now so I can test it.... John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 24, 2019 Report Share Posted February 24, 2019 at least you can get to the dowel with ease, there a similar bigger one on TR /2000/Dolly sprint thats on the clutch shaft these are a regular fail at fracturing and its box out to replace it Glad its all come right , guess you could have loctite or wire it in but not done as OE. mind you if it drops out it will make some expensive noises !! was your dowel very tight to rmove most are awfull little sods Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolomitejohn Posted February 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2019 Hi Pete. The bolt was very tight but managed to get it out. (been going to gym!). I still have opportunity to remove it again and add some locktite. Do you think I should do this? Tunnel is not back in yet so quite easy to do. Cheers pete John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 25, 2019 Report Share Posted February 25, 2019 well belt and braces approach is ok but they were never locked on production and its not fell out after all these years , think youre safe to leave it now Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolomitejohn Posted February 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2019 Humm You made me thin though. The bolt had a 3 or 4 mm diameter round splodge / patch on the thread. So I guess the bot was originally a patch lock bolt. I think I will do belt and braces. Its only a 30 min job...... Thanks Pete for making me think again. I don't know why I overlooked it even though I spotted the atch on the bolt. John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 25, 2019 Report Share Posted February 25, 2019 apart from senior moments !!! think twice do once , this systematically gets harder as the years plod on Ha ! pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave the tram Posted February 25, 2019 Report Share Posted February 25, 2019 Glad that all went ok, mine is a bit more complicated, so one last bit of guidance please before I lay into everything with the hammer to swap things over to the new extension casting. I'll call everything as per the manual, so in the photo, on the right is the 'coupling' held by a roll pin. This I'll leave alone as the hole for the pin only goes in one side, not right through, so can't drift it out with a rod. In the middle is the 'internal gear lever' or 'ball selector' held by a square headed locking bolt. This I will remove and have 1/4" drive socket that I can use upside down and put a big allen key in it. On the left is the 'coupling fork' held by a 'roll pin'. This I hope to remove and believe I can simply drive the pin out with rod that fits the hole. Might use a drill, upside down, although if the end is a bit rounded this might not be ideal. Will try a suitable sized round nail, sawn off to create a flat end. Does this sound like the right approach and should the same pin be ok to knock back in? Then the challenge of fitting the O rings!!!!!! Yes, I too want to get back on the road - thought february was the ideal time to do jobs but its T shirt and shorts again here in Derbyshire. Cheers, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolomitejohn Posted February 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2019 What's the bit on right? Mine does not have this... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 25, 2019 Report Share Posted February 25, 2019 John, its a cam there are various styles they are used on early reverse lights and the overdrive 3rd 4th inhibitor switch. these switches all fit on a bracket that mounts on the top cover bolts if there is no OD then No cam is fitted. Dave have a look at the rear fork its looking a bit spread, might want a quite squeeze in the vice to get both 'ears' parallel Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave the tram Posted February 25, 2019 Report Share Posted February 25, 2019 Pete, will do, but I think its ok and just destortion from the iphone wide angle lense. Can somebody tell me, am I right about just driving the pin out of this with a rod, none of my manuals cover this. Now that I understand that the cam on the end isnt always present, I realise why previous posts said that I dont need to remove the fork. Thus puzzled me at the time as something clearly has to be removed from one end or the other. Cheers Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 25, 2019 Report Share Posted February 25, 2019 Amy flat ended punch, nail,drift will get the roll pin to tap out with a small hammer, supporting on something solid So theres no bounce helps, once they start to move its easy. Either end fork or cam should be roll pinned , Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave the tram Posted February 26, 2019 Report Share Posted February 26, 2019 Thanks Pete. I'll go for the end fork as the cam has a smaller pin and the hole doesn't go right through so can't push it out. I'll have work out a way to support the fork within the casing when tapping it out, pack it with bits of wood I think. Ta Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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