GFL Posted September 17, 2019 Report Share Posted September 17, 2019 1 hour ago, DanMi said: I've often found that poor charging is down to the control box rather than the dynamo. The contacts corrode and then it doesn't charge properly. Yes the control boxes can suffer from corrosion on the contacts, a quick clean with fine emery paper can sometimes restore operation? There are 3 sets of contacts for cut-out, voltage & current. I was messing about with a Mate trying to get a faulty one working on Sunday morning on my car but no amount of cleaning and tweaking of contacts helped this one, when Overheating and Smoke started coming out of it I thought a new unit was the best option?!!😮 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 17, 2019 Report Share Posted September 17, 2019 Tim Hunt (CT) and i spent a whole day on his TR4A/checking setting and measuring all things control box and when all the specs were to satifactry level a drive down the road blew all the headlamp bulbs lesson is never mess with a control box even when you have done wot it said in the test data they are cheap enough , but i would put the funds towards a A127 or similar alternator and dump the historic click clack open shut coils and contacts the low charge rates and all things of double dark art.and dynamos Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitFire6 Posted September 17, 2019 Report Share Posted September 17, 2019 Agree, Forget the dark age. Like group 1 motor oil, the dynamo system is kak. the A127 alternator is a very popular choice from 20A to 85A. Solid-state identical-looking control boxes are available. They will increase the efficiency and life of the charging system & battery. At a price, if you must keep a dynamo connected. Cheers, Iain. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted October 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2019 (edited) Hi. Any reason why I can't fit the shorter/less output C40 dynamo (kindly donated by Paula (remember her), who had it on her Vit 6, with a RB106/2 control box ) for the time being, with a suitable spacer, or would this do something drastic to my RB 340 Vitesse control box, or any other issues (apart from less charge). I guess the C40L was fitted to Vit/GT6 due to more ignition demand/D Type solonoid demand?, or other reasons?. Cheers, Dave Edited October 12, 2019 by daverclasper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitFire6 Posted October 12, 2019 Report Share Posted October 12, 2019 Hi Dave, Just fit it. Cheers, Iain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted October 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2019 Thanks Iain. Will do. Cheers, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitFire6 Posted October 12, 2019 Report Share Posted October 12, 2019 Hi, No problem mate. Glad to help. Cheers, Iain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daverclasper Posted October 12, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2019 One more question (hopefully). If the steel segments on the main body of armature have surface rust, is it worth cleaning this up, or is it the depth of steel that does the job?. Thanks, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpitFire6 Posted October 12, 2019 Report Share Posted October 12, 2019 (edited) Hi, Surface rust will have no effect on performance. If you can remove it. Why not? A coating of "oil" would do no harm IMOH. Commutator appearance & condition would be more important to longevity. Cheers, Iain. PS. A light coat of suitable varnish is prob a better idea. Edited October 12, 2019 by Spitfire6 Changed advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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