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TR7 brake pipes and nut sizes


Colin Lindsay

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I'm replacing brake pipes on the TR7 and while I'm using 3/16 kunifer the original pipes seem much thicker on the outside. The stuff I'm using is 0.028" and it's the same as I use on  the Heralds.

Two things: does anyone know the spec of the original brake pipes, and secondly, can anyone confirm that the brake pipe ends are M10 metric? The originals are badly worn but they're longer than any of my spares and I've confused myself by trying to buy them online. Can anyone confirm what exactly is needed?

If I fit the long versions, as fitted when I got the car, there's a lot of thread left over. I do have short versions but am wondering what difference it will make if I fit those, if any?? Any thoughts?

DSCF7238.jpg.f95d446a6eaf9bd091e99b6b91125603.jpg

 

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Do a double check Colin, the metric nuts fit the unf thread in a cylinder..... untill you tighten it up  :(  The metric female nuts have a less conical head, if you have one of each together you will see what i mean. The short one in the picture is metric. The long one i would say is imperial . Can you show a pic of a female union on the car?

Tony. 

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Hi Colin, that is a metric union, so i cant see them mixing the threads up on the car?  It's just that normally the long metric male union dont have that shoulder on the end? As Pete say's just watch those small unions dont bottom out..... But looking at the long one , it has'nt gone that far in.  So yes, go for metric  :) 

Tony.

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Thanks Tony - yes the Herald ones are more conical, and of course I have dozens of those. I'm going to try to source identical male unions to those removed, but it will take up to a week if ordered online. That short one is M8 but is all my local factors have in either male or female. Brake pipe manufacture is a dying art, it seems.

It's a strange setup - there is one flexible hose to the short pipe in my last photo, which goes to a wheel cylinder, but then in place of a bleed nipple there is a long pipe that runs over the diff to the other wheel cylinder which has the only bleed nipple. Basically you bleed the entire rear axle through one bleed nipple.

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Some owners in recent times have advocated splitting the pipes with a union, and having one pipe to each cylinder, plus a bleed nipple at each. For simplicity's sake I'm going to remake the original setup then see how easily it bleeds. If I get to the stage of requiring brakes I'll be far on from where it is now!

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  • 1 month later...

Having re-piped several tr7's they are indeed m10x1 standard metric unions the shorter ones are fine and the cross axle type rear pipe causes no problems, if you convert to rear disc use a 3 way union  and separate pipes as the calipers will have bleed nipples and don't like the daisy chain pipe

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Got it sorted; I've used the original system as (for now) I'm keeping the rear drums. I've remade the pipes in kunifer and had immense fun with a vice-mounted pipe flarer that makes superb flares in seconds with no effort whatsoever. If I could work up the enthusiasm to rust-proof the underside I'd have had the axle refitted weeks ago.

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  • 6 months later...
On 13/09/2019 at 17:47, Colin Lindsay said:

Thanks Pete; I'll experiment on new cylinders off the car before committing. I'm more or less sure they're metric M10 but as usual wanted a second opinion before starting and finding out the hard way, like I usually do.

My '81 TR7 has a label on the passenger side engine compartment stating that the brake fittings are metric

20200505_110722.jpg

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