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Leaking Choke


Iain T

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Spoke to a very helpful guy at Carbex and he said they often see quite a bit of distortion on the intermediate body ie the one the disc rotates against. He suggested to push the brass tube out and finely lick over the faces with a mill. I'm going to do that as I still have access to milling machines where I used to work. He said it may still dribble out of the worn outer body which they sometimes re-bush.

Plan B is next year to possibly install a kit from Classic Car Fuel Injection at Chelmsford. I spoke to the guy today and he said he has done around twelve 2000/2500 Triumphs and the results have been very good with a lot more lower and mid range grunt. The advantage is it retains the original carb body look with just an insert between the carb and manifold for the injectors. The plumbing if done correctly doesn't look to be too horrendous in the engine bay and you get the advantage of fully programmable fuel injection and ignition. Has anyone on the Forum used the kit or the company?

Iain

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24 minutes ago, Iain T said:

Spoke to a very helpful guy at Carbex and he said they often see quite a bit of distortion on the intermediate body ie the one the disc rotates against. He suggested to push the brass tube out and finely lick over the faces with a mill. I'm going to do that as I still have access to milling machines where I used to work. He said it may still dribble out of the worn outer body which they sometimes re-bush.

I'd expect it would require a rebush; surely if you grind either the body or tube you'll create a bigger gap?

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Colin, it's the part in the square which isn't flat. This fits between the outer part of the choke (with the spring and lever) and the carb body. If the face that the disc pushes against isn't perfectly flat then fuel will leak out although as he said there is fuel in the chamber behind the flat disc which can still seep out through the ill fitting shaft/outer body bush.

choke body.pdf

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