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Attaching a roof to frame


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Start at the rear, in the middle, then work outwards and forwards. It's a job I'll have to do on my own 1200 when I get to that stage.

I can't find one single video or 'how-to' on the Net, but Lindsay Porter's 'Guide to DIY and Restoration' book covers it in two pages and makes it look simple, which I suspect it isn't. The Practical Classics Herald / Vitesse book takes three pages and is somewhat more in-depth. Both books are on eBay at present, at varying prices but keep an eye out for a cheap one coming up.

As Pete says keeping the hood warm removes wrinkles and makes the material more pliable.

 

 

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There is a reason fitters charge a lot...

Firstly, make sure you get the hood from a supplier known to supply hood that fit well, some don't.

Next, you need it to be HOT. So this time of year fan heaters in the garage, get it up to mid 20's or warmer, and the roof needs to be supple/stretchy.

Next it gets tricky. The fabric webbing needs to be good or replaced, positions are vital. 

Then as Colin says start in the middle at the rear. 

 

I tried 25 years ago, spent a day with a friend and it was never very good. Came as a new hood with a donor car, source unknown but felt a bit cheap. Replaced when it spit after 5 years with a good secondhand one, that did 10 years until the stitching rotted. 

If I were needing a hood fitted, even I would pay somebody to supply and fit, so it is all down to them. Not cheap, and not like me. Spitfire hoods are a doddle (as in I can fit one pretty well in a morning, including tea and bacon butty)

 

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41 minutes ago, clive said:

Next it gets tricky. The fabric webbing needs to be good or replaced, positions are vital. 

I have new webbing for mine, bought a few years back, but you can also use seat-belt webbing so if you know of any good scrapyards it will keep the price down.

I have the frame from mine with the hood still attached, but in very poor condition. I'll measure a lot of dimensions going by marks on the old hood and take a lot of photos before I remove it. What I was considering was using the old webbing to make a template for the new; I'll fit the hood frame to the car, minus the hood but with the remains of the old webbing still attached, then position, mark and fit the new webbing whilst gradually removing the old. I reckon that if I do this at least the frame will be as originally fitted and so the hood can be positioned to a correct frame, without the hassle of trying to gauge both from scratch or find measurements. I'll worry about rivets that go through both webbing and hood when I get to them.

I've heard of one local man who is recommended for hood fitting, but knowing my luck, he's retired.

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