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cds150 damper spring rates


Iain T

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2 hours ago, Iain T said:

If it works I can't comment! Playing around with your engine can cause some head scratching......see above posts! 

Iain 

So after speaking to Burlens it is a 7b but with no spring? So now I'm thinking surely the soft spring would be better than no spring? What other needles would be worth trying I wonder?

Anyone need a pair of cdse 150's apparently there great on a mk3 gt6 just not so good on a Vitesse 6 😆 

 

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I played around on my 1600 , modified ait cleaner ,  ram stacks,    6-3-1 exhaust etc  and 

a std carb set up was the best, 7B    no spring  and  the  heavy retainer ring  

and she would out perform a TR7  

if you want black smoke keep the spring !!!

we had two CDS so a choke on each with a twin choke cable 

the spring does richen things a lot , holding the piston down increases the air velocity over the jet

and this pulls more fuel 

pete

 

 

 

 

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6 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

I played around on my 1600 , modified ait cleaner ,  ram stacks,    6-3-1 exhaust etc  and 

a std carb set up was the best, 7B    no spring  and  the  heavy retainer ring  

and she would out perform a TR7  

if you want black smoke keep the spring !!!

we had two CDS so a choke on each with a twin choke cable 

the spring does richen things a lot , holding the piston down increases the air velocity over the jet

and this pulls more fuel 

pete

 

 

 

 

Great and if thats the case I'll leave out the spring and stick with the 7B, will have to check about a heavy retainer? 

Once the carbs are sorted my next challenge is the 5 speed conversion, got the Ford box and most bits and will no doubt be back here after help when I go to do it 😉 will check for threads about that closer to the time.

Many many thanks all of you, I'll update when it's done ✔ 

Charlton 

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On 22/06/2021 at 19:35, CVPwales said:

Great and if thats the case I'll leave out the spring and stick with the 7B, will have to check about a heavy retainer? 

Once the carbs are sorted my next challenge is the 5 speed conversion, got the Ford box and most bits and will no doubt be back here after help when I go to do it 😉 will check for threads about that closer to the time.

Many many thanks all of you, I'll update when it's done ✔ 

Charlton 

So a new problem arrives, one of the needle retaining screws has been sheered off inside the piston, managed enough movement to remove the needle but can't get whats left out, looks like a new piston is needed so back on the phone to burlens tomorrow to see if they have one.

Fingers crossed! 

Also when rebuilding the other carb I'm having difficulty getting that piston to drop freely from fully open, it's fine upto about 3/4 travel then sticks, a tap on top of the carb and it drops?

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there no reason you cant drill out the grub screw and even re tap and fit an alternative 

even drill a new hole elsewhere round the base to reclaim the piston

as for sticking  

some replacement diaphragms are awful and far to thick these jam the drop

should be a flimsy gossamer rubber not whats been called a elephants condom !!

and to identify if  this needle or slide you can remove the needle or drop the jet out  if its then free its jet centreing causing the sticky , if the piston is still not free then a light 

polish of the tube slide with some flour paper and some oil 

forget any thoughts the tops are graded and matched  no they  come out of a bin and get fitted ,   slids can get damaged , and tops get distorted by gorilla tightening over the years 

do make sure the tabs on the diaphragm are correctly located in their locations 

pete

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Returning to my setup with 6J needles, I took the car out yesterday and it ran ok but looked at the plugs today and the front 3 are black and the rears look fine. I've spoken to the rolling road guy where it was tuned earlier this month and taking any leak from the front choke mechanism which was new from Burlen and needle/jet height issues away is there any reason given apparently identical setups the front carb can run rich? 

I have leaned the front a quarter turn to see if this works but why? 

Iain 

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4 minutes ago, Iain T said:

Returning to my setup with 6J needles, I took the car out yesterday and it ran ok but looked at the plugs today and the front 3 are black and the rears look fine. I've spoken to the rolling road guy where it was tuned earlier this month and taking any leak from the front choke mechanism which was new from Burlen and needle/jet height issues away is there any reason given apparently identical setups the front carb can run rich? 

I have leaned the front a quarter turn to see if this works but why? 

Iain 

Ok this is a steep learning curve for me but from what I've noticed so far all I can see that would cause the front and rear carbs to be different is if the air flow isn't balanced? Or mixture isn't matched? Could be the needle height isn't spot on if fixed needle, or as I have had with mine a washer missing on the jet of one of the carbs. Other than that I don't know.

Good luck and anyone feel free to correct me.

Charlton 

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Mine is the top washer/bushing of the jet assembly missing on one carb, it looks like an aluminium washer about a millimetre in thickness. I have similar ones but need to tweak them to fit. As for the piston problem I had, well I managed to remove the duff grub screw and am making a replacement, fingers crossed I'll have it all done and be back on the road soon.

Charlton 

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35 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

pull the tops off and compare jet heights

The jet and needle heights are the same for both carbs using a vernier and the carbs are balanced with a synchronometer. I put new float valves etc in a couple of years ago but that doesn't mean alls well, same goes for the new choke mechanism. 

If leaning off the front carb works then I'm happy! 

Iain 

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12 minutes ago, Iain T said:

The jet and needle heights are the same for both carbs using a vernier and the carbs are balanced with a synchronometer. I put new float valves etc in a couple of years ago but that doesn't mean alls well, same goes for the new choke mechanism. 

If leaning off the front carb works then I'm happy! 

Iain 

Blimey all that and they don't match, fingers crossed for you.

Charlton 

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8 minutes ago, CVPwales said:

Blimey all that and they don't match, fingers crossed for you.

The joys of classic motoring....is the world flat or roundish? Plus I have an air/fuel meter worry gauge! 

Happy fiddling and as I have found the Forum is invaluable, especially if you're fond of thread drifts......sometimes the drifts are so high you can't see over them! 

Iain 

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21 hours ago, Pete Lewis said:

i dont see it listed at burlen  , even my local wont part with them

If it's just a soft 1050 grade ali and you know the size and thickness I could ask the guys at work to punch out a few hundred on the turret punch. All providing they have the correct punch and die. 

Iain 

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dont think even I have a sspare one   will have a  look

the only thing that nearly put me off buying the 2000 mk2 was its got two ruddy SU on it and less horses than all the others 

torque is better but you have to make it work to buzz along with a snappy feel 

Pete

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18 minutes ago, Pete Lewis said:

load off bits and peices outside the main operating part 

I do agree, Stromberg look engineered whereas SU's are a Lego kit. 

As I've said before there are loads of needles for Stromberg. In my setup the 6J run out of breath about half way down and are a little rich at the top so I might try a 6S needle which is thicker at top and thinner from half way. 

Postie also brought another must have oil catch can. I can hear you groaning.... 

IMG_20210629_154445.jpg

IMG_20210629_151212.jpg

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3 hours ago, Iain T said:

If it's just a soft 1050 grade ali and you know the size and thickness I could ask the guys at work to punch out a few hundred on the turret punch. All providing they have the correct punch and die. 

Iain 

I can measure the one I have and let you know, could be worth asking 😉

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