GrahamB

Run with the extension pipe in the summer and without in the winter?

I agree with Johny. A restrictive exhaust system will affect maximum power but should not affect the spark plugs. If by smoke up you mean the plug electrodes are black when removed for examination, this indicates that the SUs are set too rich and the jet adjuster nuts need to be turned anti clockwise when viewed from above.

I assume you mean with No1 cylinder set to 6 deg BTDC for a Mk3 Spitfire. You are looking for the point that the light just turns on/off with the slightest of movement. Sorry if I am stating the obvious but it was not clear from your post.

I replaced mine recently as it was severely corroded although I bought the stainless replacement some years ago. The whole pipe twisted and broke off when I tried to undo the olive. As Colin commented, it needed tweaking to get the bracket to fit over the stud. So far working well with a new nut and olive and no leaks. On examination of the remains of the original pipe, the T piece to bypass the heater was completely blocked with what may have been Radweld used by a previous owner.

I had a similar situation which was caused by the choke slipping back as the engine turned over as suggested in previous replies. The engine started when I held the choke out with my left hand while operating the ignition with my right hand and pressing the accelerator half down.

The estate next to it appears to have the same lights and grill. It is "A" registered so 1963.

Unguarded chains and minimal protection from the fan, probably not going to get approval from the works safety officer! Perhaps in those days people just used their common sense.

Canley's and James Paddock both sell the individual pipe for less than £10.

I bought the single pipe from Canley's for a few pounds; others probably can supply. You do not have to buy the whole kit, the price of which varies tremendously from different suppliers. The pipe came as a loose coil with the appropriate fittings attached. You then have to thread the pipe under the engine and around the suspension, bending it to the appropriate shape as you go. As I mentioned earlier, not the simplest of tasks to make a neat job.

Some time ago there was a similar discussion and Bosch wipers were recommended though I have no personal experience. I do do know whether they are available in the required small size; they may sell them as rear screen wipers for hatch backs. An alternative would be to just replace the rubbers, cut down is necessary. The rain was torrential. Some large puddles but fortunately no real flooding. Water was coming in between the hood and the top of the windscreen, fortunately mainly on the unoccupied passenger side. I inspected the seal on my return and it appeared to be in good condition.

With careful bending of the metal brake pipe 309700 you should be able to re-orientate the connector so that it points vertically downwards. I replaced this pipe and found it difficult as it runs under the engine so I try to avoid replacement if possible. ( It would be easy if you first removed the engine!!) The photo was of the off-side wheel, is the near-side the same?

Also the parts catalogue clearly illustrates the correct configuration with the support bracket 132365 mounted horizontally rather than vertically.

I too use the Clarke's phosphoric acid rust remover, mainly on small items. Some is poured into a plastic pot and any rusty nuts and bolts placed in the acid overnight, then rinsed in water. If the the hex is not too rounded, and the rust was only on the surface, I clean the threads with a die or tap and give a light spray of oil ready for re-use. It works well.

Some years ago, I tried to repair the starter motor off a Metro, re-attaching a terminal that had broken off. The solder would not stick. Finally I realised the field coil was aluminium, and not copper. The original appeared to have been spot welded on (but not very well hence the failure).

Probably not relevant to many Triumphs. Bought my wire from auto electricians and it is PVC insulation. Used crimped connectors with the proper tool as using a soldering iron whilst upside down in the footwell proved too difficult.

I see that you used an EeziBleed after fitting the clutch slave cylinder. I found that as the reservoir is the highest point in the circuit, I only had to open the bleed valve and the fluid ran out. After a few seconds all the air had been displaced so I closed the bleed valve and the clutch worked as intended. When I lived in County Durham some missing post finally arrived after a tour of County Dublin!

After having worked on most areas of my Spitfire, I have never come across this type of bolt. Nor have I found them specified in the parts manual. They could have been used as a non standard part to secure the seat runners through the carpet but then you would only require 4 for each seat, not the 5 that you have. Drive the car and see which part falls off ??

Yes, even worse than the manifold and has been replaced by a stainless item.

I managed to fit one of these connectors to each end of my Spitfire 1500 manifold. I had to buy the appropriate drill and tap, 3/8" BSP I think. It was still rather tricky clamping the manifold whilst attempting to drill the hole straight and true. Fortunately I had a copper T in my spares which I then connected to the outlet with a short length of rubber tube to a accommodate the heater and return tube. No problems as yet and I am more confident than I was with the severely corroded original pipe work.

Typical DOT 5 fluid will have a relative density of 0.97 compared with DOT 4 fluids which have a typical relative density of 1.05 so DOT 5 will float on top of the DOT 4 and will therefore be expelled first from the bleed valve. It would very difficult, if not impossible, to flush all the DOT 4 fluid from the system by just bleeding without using copious quantities of DOT 5.

I suggest that you study the wiring diagram for a model fitted with the single plug alternator; both large spade terminals connected directly to the battery +ve and the smaller spade terminal connected to the warning lamp (which must not be an LED). The wiring diagram suggests in theory it should be quite easy but in practice??

That is why we thought it might work, dissolve the tarnished surface layer then wash off. The same idea as cleaning coins by placing them in acid. It was just too aggressive especially to the surrounding paint. And you must be used to handling corrosive chemicals to do it safely.

Yes. Baking soda, sodium bicarbonate, is probably safer as would be washing soda, sodium carbonate. We used caustic soda as we had some readily to hand. Afterwards we wished we had used something less aggressive.

I once tried to clean some aluminium trim using a weak solution of caustic soda (and rubber gloves) . It cleaned the aluminium but also proved to be an effective paint stripper!

I am having similar problems with my Spitfire overdrive box after replacing a slipping clutch. I had to disconnect the propshaft at the diff, as without a sliding joint, you cannot push the gearbox end of the shaft back to get any clearance. I have fitted longer studs but when trying to refit the box, there is a small gap at the top and a large gap at the bottom. The problem appears to be that the filter unit on the overdrive fouls the mounting plate for the rear of the gearbox; it is as though the instructions in the WSM are for a box without the overdrive unit. I have tried jacking up the rear of the engine but all that happens is that the whole car rises off the front axle stands! It is though the engine mounts have hardened with age and will not allow any movement. The next plan is to remove the mounting plate so I can lower the end of the gearbox and to loosen the front engine mounts so the engine tips rather than raising the whole car. It does not help that I am now not as strong as I was 10 years ago!