Gadgetman

Hmmm the plot thickens! More investigation needed

It has 11.8 volts at the gauge so I'm pretty sure it is un stabilised. For info the gauge part number is BF2201/08

Definitely not stabilised, slow moving needle. The Smiths Jaeger gauge has adjuster slots on the back. Reading on an "MG" forum these are adjustable, has anyone ever tried??

If you are interested I can put you onto a guy who did mine for me, replaced inner and outer bearings, new UJ, shot blasted / primed, welded the backplate and ground back where the handbrake lever pivot sits ( it wears a divot on the backplate) all done for £69 ( including drilling out a seized trunion bolt!) at that price it's not worth doing it yourself!

If you are interested I can put you onto a guy who did mine for me, replaced inner and outer bearings, new UJ, shot blasted / primed, welded the backplate and ground back where the handbrake lever pivot sits ( it wears a divot on the backplate) all done for £69 ( including drilling out a seized trunion bolt!) at that price it's not worth doing it yourself!

Tried bending the arm but when ithe arm is on the bottom stop the gauge still reads 1/4 full and it is as if it needs more resistance to read zero. I will get behind the panel to see if there is a stabiliser on the speedo. The gauge needles do move slowly though.

Does anyone know what the sender resistance value is at full and empty? My tank reads 1/4 when empty and over full when full. My sender range is 25 ohms and 188 ohms . My tank is a bayonet type but someone has adapted a 6 hole sender to fit it! (1966 1600 vitesse)

All sorted I needed to eat some more shredded wheat!

I am re-furbishing my vitesse sliding joint prop shaft. Does the end cap of the sliding joint unscrew or is it pressed on, I can't shift mine so can't get the joint apart.

What thickness metal do most people use to make repair plates for the chassis? I need to make a repair section where the rear dif structure joins the main chassis. I was thinking 1.5mm or 2 mm??

The new ends that rimmers sell have a 35mm (1 3/8")inside diameter, as Pete says, get a piece of tube that diameter and use it as a spigot which will help in getting it lined up and give it a bit of strength at the weld joint.

Try Classical Dash, they will make one with whatever holes you need and in the finish you want. I looked at their products at Beaulieu last week and I am getting one for my Vitesse with new door caps, their prices are good as well. http://www.classical-dash.co.uk/spitfire.html

Sounds like my old 1500TC when I shot the big ends, the shells came out as thin as a coke can... ! The con rod was even slightly oval and needed replacing. The engine is easy to strip, not complicated at all. Shame....There was a brand new 1500 short engine for sale last week at Beaulieu !

Pete, it looks like I have found the culprit.... The propshaft has a contact mark running around it and after pulling it out it has been hitting the underside of the handbrake reinforcement panel in the tunnel. It looks like the cause is shot forward differential rubber mounts, with the car on axle stands the rubber mounts are free to spin and have a gap above them of about 50 thou. I will change the mounts for poly ones and replace a notchy prop shaft UJ then see how I get on but with a lack of parts, tomorrows trip to Duxford will not happen Oh the diff is a GE so as I read it it is a 13/60 dif (GE93007)

Thanks Pete. If I can find the source and fix it I will drive up to Duxford tomorrow. I will let you know the diff prefix later on. Ref. Duxford have a good day anyway, hope I can make it.

Thanks Pete, looks like it has had a rear axle and drive shaft swap! Any thoughts on the rear end noise, it is a grinding noise only under load uphill and disappears if I take my foot off the throttle or dip the cluch, it sounds like its in the centre of the car around the handbrake or rear of it???

Pete who is the diff guy in Sussex as I might need a rebuild and that is down my way .....

I am looking into a whining / grinding noise under load on my 1966 Vitesse 6. I have looked at the diff drive shaft uj's and replaced them but the noise remains & I fear it is the diff itself. Looking at the diff output shaft flanges they have 5/16" bolts but looking at the Vitesse 1600 parts illustrations on Rimmers it shows 3/8 diameter bolts, have I got a 13/60 diff and drive shafts or did triumph put 5/16" bolts on the 1600 Vitesse and the parts list is wrong? What is the diff serial number prefix for a Vitesse and herald diff???

they only do the rear seat pans by the look of it, I'm after the actual rear foot well part of the floorpan

Rivnuts are great. We use them all the time on aircraft. Make sure you get the ones with a key on them to stop them spinning, you just file a small slot in the hole for it to grip on http://www.lasaero.com/site/products/article?id=O00DHQGIL http://www.lasaero.com/site/products/article?id=G00Z4ZOET

Does anyone make replacement or repir sections for the rear floor pans? Mine have holes in the back corners due to sitting water.

Thanks Pete, i travel to the USA regularly so their site is an option, not bad prices on retro for the petronix set up..... Nothing there about shipping from within the uk ? http://vintageperformance.com/retrorockets/index.html

Thanks guys, you confirmed my suspicions......! It will be Aldon through the shop :-)

Thanks a Dremel and chisel got them out!

I have removed the old rubber spring eye bush on a vitesse 6. It looks like there is a steel sleeve inside the spring eye, is this left in with the super flex poly spring eye bushes?