JohnD

There can be few, Boomer, who are holier than thou. Nhoj

Is that the Bendix drive on the starter AFTER cleaning? Still looks mucky to me. Important not to grease the helix on the Bendix -only graphite powder. If it was mucky and sticking the powder may help. JOhn

I didn't think that tyre pressures were an important part of the dataset. Anyway pressures are a facet of your personal driving style. Monitoring either tread temperature just after a typical drive or longer term tread wear will reveal if the pressure you use is right for you. John

I've just found this webpage that shows front and rear wheel alignment specs for all TRiumphs from 1963-73, Tr3-4-250-5-6, Stag, 2000, Spitfire, GT6. It's from the "Mitchell Repair Information Company", a forerunner, I think, of AutoData. That and the list of models makes it American but no harm there. Just a useful list! http://vintage.mitchell1.com/PClubData/chassis/chis73/V2I738042.pdf John

Noise, don't talk to me about noise! There are 90+ decibels in the cabin of SofS at full chat - I've measured them! John

Now you blame "fabricated manifolds". Listen to me! Silerback was the only Triumph in history to have a rear radiator, and it was also the coldest in history. NO heat from the gear box, NO heat from the exhaust pipe, NO heat from its fabricated 631 manifold, NO heat from the 2.5L engine and NO bloody heat from leaks in the bulkhead. ALL the heat under the bonnet is from the radiator, via hot air getting into the cabin. Seal all those holes and you'll stay cool, NO need to get fancy with exotic insulators. John

Butch, Go and have a cuppa, relax this can be sorted! I haven't got a magic answer, but you can work it out, we can help. First, how did you work out which wire goes where? Did you use a wiring diagram? And are the wires clean enough to read the colour code? Somehow, you have connected the output from their indicator flasher unit to the oil light and wipers! I'd disconnect everything, clean the wire ends so you can read the colours and go through it carefully to workout what goes where. The codes are the base colour of the insulation and the colour of the stripe (the 'trace') on that, in that order. Good luck! John

Doug, The seal is in two parts, wit a metal pressing as retainer. Cut the seal in two parts and the retainer the other way, to get them off and on without removing the column. And, what price style, man? And, Pete, Colin Steve, are you stuck in the Ice (or in this case, Tropical) Age? Foam rots, especially when heated and exposed to hydocarbons, used heat proofing originally shaped for a completely different car, and fixation of heat-proofing itself. How many times, how loudly can I say, IT'S LEAKS THAT CAUSE EXCESS HEAT! Sorry to shout, but my own experience, and even better the Silverback experiment, showed this conclusively. Adhesive aluminium foil is what is used in motorsport and in production these days to seal unwnanted holes, Why use enything else? John

Have you checked the volts with a better voltmeter? The volts from a dynamo depend on the revs, and can go much higher than 15V, which is one reason why you need the control box, which just stops and starts charging the battery from that, to average it and to set the charging volts to what the battery needs, which can be 14.5-15.5V. And, a "new old stock" box will definitely need cleaning and adjustment. Moss have a series of short videos about the role of the control box and how to adjust it. See: Good luck! John

Simon, That's what Triumph used! Rockwool or similar in a tough plastic sleeve, stapled to the inside of the cover. But FAR more important if you want to keep cool in the car (apart from wearing shades at night) is to ensure that it seals to the bulkhead and floor (Club shop sell seal sets - I din't know how good they are) AND that the many holes in the bulkhead, some that pass wired or cable, some that seem to have no purpose, are sealed. Triumph used rubber grommets, but modern adhesive aluminium tape is easier to fit. See Screwfix, Wickes, Homebase or any hardware store There is a LOT of very hot air under the bonnet, mostly - all! - from the radiator, rushing away under the car and down the transmission tunnel. It will transfer that heat to you if it can get inside far more effectively that radiation from the exhaust pipe and gear box. John

Thank you, Casper! How is Carl these days? John

Front & rear suspension specs.htm This data is from an article in Courier, many years ago. My error it was not by John Thomason, but another authority, whose name escapes me. The top link is an .htm file. Click on it and it will open and be even clearer to read then the second, the image file. You can see, I hope that while the GT6 spring is stiffer, it is also flatter, (Lower free height) so is unlikely to make your car stand on its toes. If you don't like the stance, then a spacer as said above. JOhn

Dave, If the studs have stuck that badly, then they have corroded as well. Best re-assemble with NEW studs, and double-nutting stresses the threads something rotten anyway. So NEW studs, and there's no harm in destroying their use as studs by welding a nut on top. The extreme heat will help it release as well. If you don't have welding gear, discuss with your "old school garage man" who surely must. (Although if hanging it up by the head was he could think of .......) John

The dark area is just staining from exposure to hot oil and contaminants for years. Look at the top end of your valve stems for the same effect. John

A concave surface, Pete? I used to believe that a new follower would be slightly convex, you mention concave, but I learnt recently that OE Triumph followers are/were flat when new. Do you know what they should be? John

No probs, Wayne, that's the power of Johns. John

Ignore it. That chip has been there since the engine was first built - look at the colour inside the chip and outside. It's clearly not wearing on the bore or the follower either. Put it back and forget it. It's FINE! John

May we see a picture, Daver? And do yu know what has been done to the suspension? Popular lowering mods include stiffer shorter coil springs in front, and a spacer under the leaf spring at the back. Plus a stiffer rear spring too sometimes. If you have the swing axle version, then this is a cornering benefit, as it provides for a mild negative camber and further travel before it goes positive, let alone jacking up. At the front a similar slight negative ensues from lowering, but there the camber may be adjusted without spring change by adjusting the number of wishbone spacers. So pics please, inc. the front suspension. Take the rear seat out and remove the cover plate above the diff. to see what's there! JOhn

You''re right, Pete, but I can't find it among my 'attachments', so here it is. item No.1 in my Black Museum DO NOT on anyone's say so, fill the bore with a liquid and use the starter. Apart from the above, all that happens is there is a spurt of oil between head and block, and the head is maybe half a millimeter higher. Take the studs out. John

Plus one for Pete's advice! You might be able to get the studs out by the double nut tecnique (extra nut on top, locked to the original, use the bottom one to turn it out) of else WELD the nut to the top of the stud. You're goi g to use new studs anyway, yes? John

About three years. Complicated, because it was to become Silverback, my race Vitesse Estate (see bbelow), so there were a lot of other suspension, bodywork, engine and fuelling mods to do as well. For instance, the doors were in DiY GRP, but of course when fitted to the body, would come nowhere near shutting. My solution was to cut a vertical strip half an inch wide from the doors! It was going to have plastic windows anyway, so no probs fitting glass. The GRP roof was a VERY tight fit, but as it was very stiff, unlike an OE metal roof and third the weight, with that tensioned the whole shell was also beautifully stiff. John

If I may, and from experience of reassembling such a Vitesse/Herald, careful measurement when assembling front and rear body halves. I ended with the whole assembly half an inch shorter than it should be! Your soft top will not fit then! John

Below, you will see that the Estate and Courier springs were similar, both of thicker leaves, the latter with an extra leaf, and stiffest of all. As long as your fillings are not loose, these are the best for non-Rotaflex, non-swing spring, as the suspension movement will be least. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr! I uploaded an HTML table that looked perfect in the editing box. It's juts a single column list online. Let's try again, a Word table Still a rubbish list Rich Text Format? Nope. Someone tell me. How do I post a table, so that it stays a table tabulated in columns? It's from a Courier article by John Thomason in 1993, and lists all the rear springs' properties and specs, or most of them. I hope it could answer Pete's Q, and maybe others. John

It's the sense of entitlement and lack of enterprise that annoyed me. 'Canley's won't get me a spring! Boo Hoo!' Have a look here, David; specialist classic car spring maker, BCC http://www.britishclassiccarparts.com/triumph-herald-estate-rear-1959-67-pair-leaf-springs-7239-p.asp Herald Estate Spring (it says spring s, but all the items do) £411 Took me thirty seconds to find. John

Cannot you see, David, that's everyone who wanted a Courier spring, at least for the moment now has one? There may be a market in the future, but it is now sated. John