JohnD

All above, double plus good. And double nutting can work, but the strain on the threads means new studs, and a stud extractor WILL damage them. So, take any old 3/16" nut, not the good head nuts, and WELD them onto the studs. They WILL come out, the heat helps, and new studs are best, so invest in a set. JOhn "Sacrificial" nuts! Good word, for double nutting or welding!

SofS and Silverback has Prestige's version. Simple, tough, maybe needs extra return springs, or else I had seizing throttle spindle, but with a spring on each spindle no more probs

Jimmy, I'll be busy when I get back, so in afew days, please pm me a reminder to get back to you? Meanwhile the floor is open for the many gurus of the board! John

Jim, There should be, I think, a reinforced bolt hole for a harness eye bolt on the side of the transmission tunnel, behind the hand brake, and one below the B-post, in the sill, or there is on a Vitesse. The OE shoulder strap anchor was in the rear with Dow will, but that's no good for 4 or 6 points. Look in the Blue Book of the Motor Sport Ass. - if you intend to sprint or hillclimb you will need a licence and get one free, but it is on the MSAs website. Safety Section , about harness anchorage. Backing plates to spread the load etc. You will have to fill that space behind the seats into the boot with metal sheet. I fabbed a steel bar, bolted to the side frames in the boot, to take the two shoulder straps. Can't send pics from Rio. Back later this week, ask if you need more help. John

Karl You imagine the procedure exactly. Special drill not costly, removes outer leaf of spot weld inner left intact. Plug weld back again. Pete, yes cut your cloth etc, but the "repair" you suggested is a bandaid on a wound that will not heal! Its very short term, will new to be done again and can make matters worse. I've done "repairs" with gaffer tape, to get me home or into the next race for lack of time. Should mention the rubber flap valve that should allow water out, but tends to keep leaves etc in. It is needed to stop engine compartment fumes getting into the car. John

Again, Pete I'm offended that you suggest a filler bodge! There is NO place for filler as a rust repair - the rusted metal cannot be removed or "cured" and corrosion persists. The ONLY legit use for filer is to smooth out residual bumps and seams. Best is to remove the heater box, drill out the spot welds, cut out rust, replace with suitably shaped panels, replace box (paint inside first), repaint. Yes its not a job to be do without experience, but how do you get experience? By doing the job! The only bit of kit that is expensive, or needs actual experience (=practice) is the welding, but same argument. Give it a go, Karl! Recruit local members to help, advise and drink your beer! John

Mk1 or 2? Mk1s swaged in tubes for the push rods seep oil onto the plug threads. Normal, unless excessive. Mk2s can seep through the rocker cover seal. John

That would be electric power steering. Several small moderns use it, and I know of a Mk2 rally Escort so fitted. Auto off above 30mph, cunning! John

Bad enough with road tyres. Wait til you have wider, softer race tyres! But sounds like a useful car for the track days you plan, and then hillclimbs. Please keep us informed - might meet you on track some time! John

No probs, shish! That's an easy handle John

Where are you based, shish? This board gives you acccess to the widest possible panel of ex-spurts, but many problems such as noises are better dealt with by someone on the spot, and for advice on local dealers/repairers. Have you contacted your load TSSC Area, who will meet monthly, and can help? And do we call you "shish"? Bests John

And many front Shockers were sold "for Hrald/Vitesse" with the spring seat too high, so if the other side ..... This common problem. Search for previous threads. John

I don't think that "extra" cooling g capacity will be a problem. The thermostat is what regulates cooling, and you can choose within reason what temp you wish to run at. A bigger rad for hot countries, or when you will work the engine hard. But, in SofS I have a Honda rad a bit smaller than the OE, and for 1600cc. It works well! John

Two possibilities: A/ failed master or slave. Peer down between bulkhead and block, RHS, to see if the slave moves when you press the pedal. If not, check master first, getting the slave out without removing the ox is a bit fiddly. B/ clutch friction plate 'frozen' (aka rusted) to the pressure plate and f!y wheel, by damp conditions in store. It WILL release, and many dodges been suggested. Best and safest, IMHO, is to take it to some empty road/area (Sunday carpark??) Start it IN GEAR by push or tow, and drive it around with the clutch pedal down. Lots of other threads on this, do a search for other ideas, some risky, some downright dangerous! John

O/d uses a conical clutch to cause it to 'overdrive'. In direct drive it works by toothed gears, not possiblilty of slipping. John

Please see my reply to same Q on Club Triumph. John

Also, if the garage not as classic friendly as they said, that the shoes are fitted the right way around. With only one slave cylinder, there is a leading shoe the first after the cylinder as the wheel rotates,and a trailing shoe. The brake material should be nearer to the slave on the lead shoe than the trail. Modernswifh drums tend to be dual slave and two leading shoes. And that the various springs have been correctly reassembled. Consult your workshop manual! John

Not often I disagree with Pete, but I do here. The wedges are, should be, as tight as a ... Tight thing. No harm in a smear of sealant, but you hammer them in and cut off excess with a chisel. No joint should need "copious sealant". Just a smear, and as far as possible remove what squishes out. If there is a lot of squish, remake the joint, as it will have squished inside, where you cannot reach. The Blue Hylomar aerosol spray is a good way to get a fine, even, thin layer on a gasket, but it is ridiculously expensive. John

It's not just here, Andrew, but thank you for the progress and result report. Even "experts" are no good if they don't know if advice works! John And you know what an ex-spurt is!

And if you ever get a diff case without a drain hole, off the car, get it drilled and tapped. Can't recall the correct, or rather the plug, thread, but it's a BNP (British National Pipe) thread, not yer usual. Thread is coarse, and the conical plug achieves a seal by interference - it gets so tight it can't leak. John, in Rio

Over on the TRR website there's a complete restoration diary that looks at all the common faults. Can't post a li k from my tablet, but look for "restoration diary" John,in Rio

No.3 John

Sounds l like fine cooling to me! If it ain't broke .... But sticking a garden hose end in the rad hose and back flushing that may be worthwhile, and the other way around into the block. The usual connectors for garden hose fit inside the rad hose. John

Thank you, Casper, I see what he means now. John

I don't know what he can have meant, "meet a higher standard ... beause it would not have either front or rear systems working.". He's taking nonsense. Refer him to the UK MoT Manual, its online, see section 3.7 page 2 " Testing". The manual consistently refers to the "parking" NOT "emergency" brake, and the test is exclusively of the mechanical system, with no hydraulic assist. Suggest you find another garage with more knowledge of car systems before you entrust safety critical work to them. And further to attend your local Area Group meetings, to learn where such an establishment might be. Or, speak to one of the several specialists who advertise in the Courier. John