JohnD

Andrew, The collapsing joint indeed limits up/down wheel movement if correctly adjusted. But my horn sounding on corners was down to the boss touching the column shroud, the covers all the wiring to the light/trafficator levers. A rubber disc, just larger than the boss/shroud diameter has cured that. I just wonder if worn column bushes are allowing more side-to-side movement than there should be, but it's sorted for now! John

You need a good lengthed pry bar, a "burglar's friend" crow bar, or even a length of pipe. Few screwdrivers will be long enough, and anyway that's misusing your tools! And maybe some pieces of wood. Use it to lever on the suspension, with a wood pad to protect the body. There will always be some movement at a bushed joint, but excessive movement isn't difficult to diagnose. John

Done this myself with success, but there are limits. If you can feel the scratch with your fingernail, it will probably not polish out successfully. http://www.frost.co.uk/full-windscreen-scratch-repair-kit.html John

Pete, To time the cam shaft, you need to know where No.1 cylinder TDC is on the firing stroke. (at the start of the power stroke) Any cylinder that is at TDC will be either on the firing stroke, or else at the end of the four stroke cycle (start of inlet), just about to start another cycle. In that second case, both valves will be slightly open, but on the firing stroke they will be closed. It's as simple as that. If both valves on No.1 are 'loose' - the rocker to valve stem clearance is still present - then it's on the firing stroke. Does that help? John

Jimmy, From your three most recent posts, I'm guessing you are reassembling a car someone else took apart! The short "gauge fixings" (no, I don't know the right name) are correct for the smaller gauges, so search around your many boxes of bits and you will probably find the matching long one. If you really, really can't, try a phone call to Canley's, who are pretty helpful. John

Sorted, I think. I returned today to look at the problem, and now the horn sounds as soon as the ignition goes on. Tried a rubber disc, to insulate between the wheel boss and thre switch shroud. No effect. I have a Mountney wheel, with a horn button in the middle. Can't remember when or why, but I had modified it by adding a contact disc to the back of the button assembly, I think because the horn top spring contact didn't reach the boss, and then a piece of spring steel to contact the column nut. Again, can't remember why! But eventually worked out that of course the b******y steel spring shorts the circuit all the b*****y time, so the horn was doing the same. Removed the spring steel contact and normal service is resumed! The wheel boss was touching the shroud, causing intermittent sounding which the rubber disc sorts out, and my ill-advised spring steel jobbie was making it sound all the time. Test drive needed, but it's been sleeting rain. Tomorrow. Thanks for advice! John

All, I'm sure that this problem has been discussed here, but I cannot find it. So has anyone any advice, please? Classicliffe mentioned in one thread that if the steering wheel hub contacts the shroud that surrounds the column, that could earth the circuit and sound them, but I cannot reproduce this by purposely putting a jumper lead across them. Nor does turning the wheel when stationary sound the horns. Any other ideas, tests etc, that could help me find the fault? I take out the "HORN TOP SPRING CONNECTOR" Pt No.142534 to disable the horns as otherwise it's so embarassing, but as we are off to Le Mans soon, I'd like to have them in use. Thanks, John

If its moving then it ain't clamping. And if it ain't clamping then the faces of the two parts are too high, so that when the U-bolts are tight, the pressure is on the faces, not the rack tube. As the faces are NOT supposed to meet, it's not a precision job, and you can remove some metal from the faces with a hacksaw. Neaten it up with a file, make sure that the two parts meet more or less level, and refit. Clamped in rubber/polybush/silicone, the rack WILL move about, a bit. In metal it will not. JOhn PS If you are worried about clamping on a "film of paint", a strip of sandpaper is your friend, but grease it on fitting (Yes, grease it - we're talking interference fit here.)

RD, An open pipe is just a touch antisocial, in an age, when cars are expected to produce only sweetness and light, not crank fumes. Positive crankcase ventilation has been in use since the 1950s. But if you don't want to recycle the fumes into the air intake (and I don't) a catch tank with a small filter on its vent will allow the worst of them to condense, and all you need to do is empty the rather yucky stuff out of the tank now and then. There are all sizes available, with all sorts of wingdings attached from baffles to sight-tubes, at all sorts of prices, but good ones for less than £20. See eBay! JOhn

Gordon, I left out a link to a conversion website (there are many) that shows the minimal reconnections that such a conversions needs - not a "pile"! And please, electrical minded or not, buy yourself a multimeter! Less than £10. John

theestimator, Suggest you live up to your nom d'Internet and do some measuring! What volts are available AT the alternator when running? Should between 14 and 15V. If low or high, then there may be an alternator fault, but as you say, that you be unlikely with a new one. "Pile of wires" where the Volts Regulator used to be? Shouldn't be. This MG site explains how to convert from dynamo to alternator, and basicly, it's connectinfg the right wires where the VR box used to be, not a tangle. My bet is, poor engine block earth. However much the alternator puts out, it has to return. Triumph provided a manky length of wire mesh, often rusted away or forgotten when an engine is put back in. Use a length of the same cable used for the starter motor - it has to carry that current too - from the block to a really, really good earth. The battery earth is best. John

Jim, Please consult the MSA Yearbook, (The Blue Book), Section K Safety. https://www.msauk.org/assets/153191commonregulationsforcompetitorssafetyk.pdf It's not specific for a GT6, but shows you the best way to secure the anchors and run the belts. The shoulder belts in particular should be as horizontal as possible. In that situation, using a cross tube of the roll cage is a good way to achieve this. See: http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php/topic/4470-4-point-harness/ It avoids the need for more holes in the shell. See Section K for details. The crotch belts should go through a hole in the seat, just in front of your crotch - many modern race seats provide one, and then be spread apart as widely as is practical. The objective is to prevent 'submarining', where the energy of an impact pushes the body downwards in the seat - bad for the spine and (less importantly!) for the legs. For specific examples, suggest you visit a race circuit where a GT6 is competing, and talk to the drivers. Classic Sports Car Club has Gt6s in the "Swinging 60s" series Their race calendar is here: http://www.classicsportscarclub.co.uk/?q=Calendar John

Peter, when you say "open", do you mean to drill out the top thread of the newly tapped stud holes? For Haggis, this is an essential part of the mod, as otherwise when you insert the stud, it will compress the metal around the hole. No probs, except on the face where the metal can expand upwards. This tiny bulge can support the gasket and head and cause the seal to fail. After tapping, the hole should be counterdrilled with a slightly larger bit, just enough to remove the top turn of the thread. Best done by the machine shop that deals with the block, but remind them of the necessity. John

They are fairly new, but as I only bought a new, conventional torque wrench a couple of years ago, I haven't got myself one. Nor, as it happens do any of the professionals I know, possibly because they have invested in conventional SnapOn TWs, treat them as precision instruments and have them calibrated every few years! This review of a few devices is complimentary about a torque adaptor, but also shows by testing how im[ortatnt it is the return your 'click' wrench to zero before putting it away: http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/additional-how-to/ccrp-1304-torque-wrench-testing/ John

Hmmmmmmmmmm. " Snap-On 1/2" Drive Electronic Flex-Head TechAngle® Torque Wrench " https://store.snapon.com/TechAngle-174-Models-2-Accuracy-Ratcheting-Flex-Head-1-2-Drive-Electronic-Flex-Head-TechAngle-Torque-Wrench-12-5-250-ft-lb--P760213.aspx $500 for an excellent,long-lifed SnapOn tool, that provides the same accuracy, from the same technology, as that torque gauge. I showed a 3/4" drive one just at random, yes, "cheaper models are available". Clarke sell one for £36: https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/040215238/ SnapOn are fantastic tools, well worth it for a pro. John

"Electric torque wrench"?? Do you mean a buzzgun, a cordless impact driver? Most have no adjustment, or else a crude low/medium/high. EG http://www.acdelco-tools.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=79 "5 torque settings" No technician would rely on that, but set it low and then tighten with a proper torque wrench. Do you mean an electronic torque gauge? That goes between a breaker bar and the socket? EG http://www.justoffbase.co.uk/Torque-Adaptor-Digital-3-4Sq-Drive-100-500Nm-STW292-Sealey?gclid=CPOhjPaTrM0CFfMV0wodJEgLEg "Accuracy +/- 2%" But you can check your torque wrench, by clamping the drive bar in a vice and weighting the handle with a large object of known mass, hung a measured distance from the drive bar. John

Philip, An AGM battery does have advantages over the conventional lead acid battery, in particular a rapid charge and discharge, and good performance in a deep-discharge cycle. But the last means using up all the useful charge and then recharging it again at once. They are still lead-acid batteries and they sulphate if allowed to stay discharged for long. See: http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/absorbent_glass_mat_agm (the whole website is a mine of gold about batteries!) Ypu could end up with a very expensive, dead battery. Clive is quite right - spend the money on a trickle charger, or even better, a "float" charger, that senses the state of the battery continuously: http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/charging_the_lead_acid_battery John

This engine has been rebuilt, yes, haggis? So no crud, Pete. And it is a Mk2 engine, so no swaged in push rod tubes to leak oil from the 'cam follower chest' (a new term for me! but I know what you mean) Quote, " it has an awful oil leak on the left hand side of the block on the same side as the coil, distributor etc. This leak only occurs when the vehicle is hot and driving, when stationary hot or cold there is evidence of the leak but no sign of where it is coming from, its all over the side of the engine between the distributor pedestal and the alternator. It would seem to be cascading down from the head gasket level as everything above this is oil free." Dip stick. Oil is coming out and spraying that area of the block. It's been rebuilt, but is there still blow by, and excess crank chamber pressure? This can happen with a new engine, until the rings bed in, or if the bores have glazed. Do a compression test, looking for equality across the block, to ensure that a ring hasn't seized. And with it warmed up, take off the oil filler and feel the wind coming out - if it is a zephyr, all is well; if it is a mighty wind ...... After your first start, how did you drive it? Initial in-garage run should be 2-3.5K, varying it all the time, for 20 minutes to bed in the cam followers. Then on the road, foot hard down in third, so that the engine has to work hard - but don't bog it. This forces the rings against the bores, to bed them in. And on the overrun keep it in gear with the throttle closed, foot off pedal, engine braking. This generates the maximum vacuum in the bores, drawing up oil onto the wall and rings to lubricate them. Brrrrrrrrrrm! and coast down. Repeat, and repeat, and repeat. Drive like this wherever possible - eg not in busy traffic, in fact avoid traffic, and do so on more open roads where your antics will annoy no one! This avoids glazed, polished bores that do not seal and cause excess blow-by. Do this for as long as you can. 200 miles at least. Meanwhile, wrap some rag around the top of the dip tube, and see if I'm right. If not then warm it up, clean the block as much as possible, and drive it to the end of the road. And back, Repeat, until you see where the oil is coming from! Good luck! John

Jason, If adding fuel to the intakes doesn't get it to fire, then this is not a fuelling problem. So it's ignition, and like Paul says you need to check that you are not 180 degrees out. That means the distributor is firing No.4, when it should fire No. 1. Recall that any 4 cylinder engine has the pistons move in pairs. When No.1 is at Top Dead Centre (TDC) and the ignition fires its plug shortly before, No.4 is also at TDC but with both valves open at the end of one 4 strioke cycle and the beginning of the next. To get it right, set No.1 at TDC, and observe the valves. Are those on No.1 both closed? And those on No.4 slightly open, intake going down (opening) and exhaust coming up? Now look at the rotor arm. Is it pointing at the ignition lead for No.1? It should be! Don't worry about precision, just that the arm is pointing more or less at No.1 Now put the rocker cover and the dizzy cap back on, and do the static timing which is described in the Haynes and the Official workshop manuals, so as to be more precise about the position of the dizzie. Then go for a start, with the dizzie unclamped, so that you can rotate it very slightly, advancing and retarding the spark around TDC. You WILL get a start! Now you can accurately time the ignition with a strobe gun, if you have one! Good luck JOhn

JB Weld is an epoxy glue. See my previous reply, but I hope it seals the problem for you! John

Some time ago, I noticed that new reproduction trunnions had a steel plate swaged into the bottom, as doug notes, instead of being solid bronze (not brass). I suggested then to seal the bottom inside with an epoxy glue, a lot easier than soldering. This may not be possible once they have been used, as the leaking seam will be full of oil, and the glue will not bind to the metal, while soldering will fail likewise. Brazing may work, as it's hotter and may vapourise/burn the oil out, but any will work best on new (and cleaned) units. John

Pete, I'm sorry, I cannot imagine why you haven't had a reply, as I remember the question! And feel sure I did reply. But Hey! That's computers for you. The Spitfire Squadron was a team name from the HeyDay of TSSC racing, when six race Spitfires could easily be gathered to enter the 750MC's Birkett Six Hour Relay Race. In fact, in the 90s I organised a second team of Spitfires, "Team TSSC" - see pic below. It was a wonderful event that got cars of every type on track at once, from 750 Series, Austin7 based specials to racing Bentleys from WO's own hands. As there could be forty or more teams, each with a car on track at once, it was a whole day of continuous motorsport, that became a regular, end-of-season jolly for most of UK's racers. And Triumphs played their part. But Triumph racers became thin on the ground, and the Hadfield's (a racing family if there ever was, Mr., Mrs. and Master Hadfield too) moved on. They honoured me by asking if I'd take on the Squadron, that they had organised for years. So for several years, I did, although it's name came to include GT6s and my Vitesse. But after the 2008 race, when we were one of the only half-dozen classic car teams in an even bigger field of fifty-five teams at Silverstone, it became obvious that those who drove moderns were intolerant of slower cars, in a way that drivers in the Old Birkett would have declared a very bad show. My drivers (and I) were cut up and even damaged by, I'm sad to say, incompetent race drivers - it is a non-contact sport, after all. The Last Spitfire Squadron team, 2008. After that, I couldn't get a team together, and the Spitfire Squadron went into retirement, although my Vitesse stills bears the Team Logo. But a "pace-car" for the Squadron? The Team was only ever entered for the Birkett, that employs a pace car for dangerously positioned break-downs and crashes, the same way as F1, but that is the race organisers' car. And in the years before my "ownership", the teams were almost always Spitfires. I'm sorry, but although I do have some records of the Squadron's teams, none feature the cars' registration numbers. So please, if Jim Fullbrook will scan these documents and let me see them, I'll try to tally them up, if I can. John

Before you do this heavy job, read the page on Diff noises at Canley Classics: http://www.canleyclassics.com/technical-archive/rear-end-noises/ It may change your mind about what is the problem. John

I fear that when we own and run such old cars, it is incumbent on us to maintain them properly. "Motorists" used to be exhorted to check their tyre pressures every time they went out, to check the fluids weekly and grease the suspension every few months. Modern cars are not only a light year more reliable, but they check themselves! I have a slightly less that perfectly sealing tyre on one wheel of my modern, and every few months it tells me - low pressure! In fact, the pressure is less than 5 psi lower than ideal, and it gets pumped up. We cannot let that extraordinary reliability make us forget that our cars are from that previous era. As you say, yours was a clutch fluid leak, not brakes, which could be rather more embarrassing. A quick check under the bonnet and a critical look at the tyres should be a rule before each trip, IMHO. I really don't think that this was a sudden failure, instead one that you would have noted on a journey and taken the right action, even if it stranded you, but regular checks can reveal a problem long before it become critical. John

Over on the French site Amicale Spitfire, Bruno Monteil has posted some thermal imaging pictures of a running Spitfire engine. Relevant by comparison to the straight six. No surprises or unexpected hot spots, but useful to see! http://www.amicalesp...e.fr/thermo.php John