JohnD

There's this video: It's not animated, more a slide show made by a Dutch Lucas PI specialist, Harm Klijn, to promote his services. But it lays out all the parts of the M/u, labelled and in detail, and shows a unit on a test rig, which I've never seen before! And properly set up on such kit by an expert, Lucas Pi is MORE reliable than carburettors. People in the UK, Malcolm at Prestige, KMI, and others have the kit and can do the same. John

Andrew, "Poacher Alarm"? http://www.williampowell.com/Shooting--Dogs/Game-Bags--Accessories/Poacher-Alarm_MA101.htm John

Excellent! I'd have loved to see the M/u working though. JOhn

The kind hand of admin! Thank you! John

Andrew, tell me about it! Twice for me. My cabs are now either chained to the wall, or in an alcove behind a steel bar., and locked with padlocks, not the manky locker-door locks they come with STILL someone got in and levered the bar off the wall with a spade. Previously, with the insurance money, I went to Halfords and did a good deal with the manager, for new cabs, tool sets and sundries at significant discount for the lot. As Halfords "Professional" range of tools are near Facom standard, I'm very happy with them. They do two ranges of cabinets, with and without ball bearing drawer sliders - IMHO the latter are worth it. JOhn

How is that? Digital=fast, but not here? John

Halfords do a boxed selection set (Mmmmmmmmmm! Scrummy!) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/191522732742?adgroupid=13585920426&hlpht=true&hlpv=2&rlsatarget=aud-133395220626%3Apla-131843260866&adtype=pla&ff3=1&lpid=122&poi=&ul_noapp=true&limghlpsr=true&ff19=0&googleloc=1006854&device=c&chn=ps&campaignid=207297426&crdt=0&ff12=67&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff14=122&viphx=1&ops=true&ff13=80 But link the new one in parallel, not series. Old spring stiffness = k1 New spring stiffness = k2 EG 2+4=6 In series New stiffness = k1 + k2 In parallel new stiffness is found by 1/newk = 1/k1 + 1/k2. EG 1/2 + 1/4= 1/0.75 newk=1.3 LESS total stiffness, but a much higher harmonic. John

A weight would change the base harmonic of the lever system - like a pendulum. That has a great big weight at the bottom, and often small weights on the rod, that can be moved up or down to regulate the clock, because that small change will move the centre of gravity, and so the period of the pendulum. So you would not need a very large weight. Just a big bolt or two, as I suggested. Same applies to valve springs, but you can't add weight there. so double springs are used. This could work for you to, but the second spring should be much stiffer or shorter than the first. Then, the first harmonic is the multiple of the two springs base frequency. Just adding a similar spring will only make it harder work for your foot. John

I deleted my old pic, but the new one will not upload. Or rather, it says it has uploaded, but does not appear, on the 'change photo' page or on the board The new is only 251Kb. What's the problem? It works fine here! John

This is vertical vibration? Not side to side? And this might be harmonic vibration. A small impulse from the closed throttles matches the period of vibration of the pedal. If you change the latter, the it might go away. A spring would help, but better a weight added to the pedal. Can be done temporarily as a test, say a large bolt or two clamping a strip of metal to the lever behind the pedal itself. As far from the pivot as possible. John

No, but fit cam bearings instead Available from Rimmers. Fitting involves line boring, but you get the benefit of proper bearings as well. JOhn

That faux leather pad beneath the PCB shows that this is a DiY effort, for sure. Perpetrator nicked the flap off an old purse/handbag? John

PCB marked E1(7?)1 3181; could be other characters before that. Can't find a PCB or kit with that serial number. Can see a Texas Semiconductor chip 2121: that's an "LMH2121 3 GHz Fast-Responding Linear Power Detector with 40 dB Dynamic Range": http://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lmh2121.pdf Would that fit a rev counter kit? Can't read any of the other chips. Anyone got resolution improving software - Photoshop? And rev counter at all? two paired of displays: each one has one digit with seven bars to display the numbers , plus two vertical central bars - letters? Other has the same seven, with a '+' and a '-' symbol. Strange. John

"A car caught in the floods is generally a write off. " Not always! Told this story before, so keep it short. When working as a garage workshop floor sweeper in school holidays, I was sent with the apprentices (yes, apprentices in those days, and enough to fill a minibus, in just a large BMC dealer's workshop!) to a car pound where a dozen brand new MGBs had been caught in a flood. We stripped all the seats, trim and batteries out, blew the water from the engines by, plugs out, turning them over on the starter from large trolley battery, and they were shipped back to the factory to be retrimmed and fitted. I don't know if 'our' firm sold them to punters, or sold them on, but they must have smelt funny in wet weather! John

As said above, the design of dipstick is common. How long should it be? I have a small collection of sticks, and if one is too long, you could always cut it down. It's your for a donation to Help for Heroes. John

" Who ever did the repair was a skilled welder, because it seems to be ok" No, a lucky, but not a skilled block repairer! As your pic shows, the repairs are leaking and it looks as if there are other cracks present. The weather DOES freeze in Greece, and IMHO that is where the damage and the repair are more likely to be have been done. After all, a new block, or even engine would would be readily available in the UK, even today, but not in Greece. And not skilled. Those lumpy welds, however much the block was pre-heated, could have only penetrated a small distance into the cracks, if at all as shown by the leaks, and welding isn't the preferred method of repair, anyway. That is lock and stitch, where a series of connected holes are drilled in lines at right angle to the crack, for a lock piece. Then with the crack held closed, it is drilled out and threaded for a series of individual pins closing the crack in depth and stopping it spreading through the parent metal. See: Watch the succeeding two videos for a detailed view of successful and permanent block repair. You will see that it is a precise and skilled job, that needs special tools which the Greek owner probably didn't have. It's also costly! Skill and precision never come cheap. So it's usually rare blocks that get this treatment, or ones that must remain 'original'. Triumph blocks are just replaced, but it may be that the time is coming soon when Lock'n'Stich is the preferred economic repair. Even on the Åland Islands (between Sweden & Finland), that's what I'd suggest for your car. Find another engine, and keep the antifreeze topped up! John PS this shows that the US name for core plugs, "freeze plugs", in the fond belief that if the water freezes, the plugs will pop out and stop it cracking, is plain wrong! J.

There are a few of these right now. See: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-tr5-pi-sports-car-classic-project-very-collectable/252206301021?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140107083358%26meid%3D359e266c562642e288584a6ee973f28c%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D10%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D252200583991 £19950 for a TR5, might just might, be right for a perfect example. But look below at others offered on ebay. TR6 for £25K TR4 for £30K Etc. Way out of my salary bracket, anyway. John

And, if I may repeat what I said in the other thread, the symptoms and what you have done to the car, before and after they started. As I pointed out there, it's usually what you did to it ,last that is the problem! There are some ... a recent thread on another board, based not six thousand miles from here, was started by an owner who said, "When I turn the ignition key, nothing happens." He was on a TR forum but apart from that, it was clueless! John

http://uk.farnell.com/kingbright/l-53gd-12v/led-5mm-green-20mcd-568nm/dp/1142554?ost=1142554&mckv=rwyXIqTx_dc%7Cpcrid%7C78108292869%7C&selectedCategoryId=&CMP=KNC-GUK-FUK-GEN-SHOPPING-KINGBRIGHT&CAGPSPN=pla&gclid=CMar586-7ckCFQ26Gwodu-YONg&CAWELAID=120173390000015257&gross_price=true GREEN Leds, 3 pence each. John

This problem, and the many responses, reveals something that every poster should consider. First - what you did to the car last - that is the problem! Second - when asking for advice, tell the whole story. Your original post, Aidan, didn't mention that you had fitted an LED! If you had, then all the talk of little green domes and the merits or not of dismantling the gauge would have been unnecessary. I can't say if the assembled diagnosticians would have come to the same conclusion at once, but they would have pointed out Rule First! John

Is this the type with the bulb holder a tube that slides into the body of the gauge? Easily removed, so you can replace, or just see that the bulb is working. If that is the case and the light not getting through, then short of dismantlind the gauge, remove it from the dash and examine the recess in the gauge in a good light (!), with a probe. There must be some obstruction - possible your gauge system has a bug (Sorry - it's Christmas!) John

Wet weather link makes me think of a slipping fan belt. Try spraying it with WD40 - yes, really! WD is a lousy lubricant, and it might keep water off the belt. Or else a new belt - cheaper than any other option. John

http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl/Blah.pl%3Fm-1283887635/s-all/Blah.pl?m-1272987461/ This thread is about testing the gear box on the bench, from using a drill to turn it to a proper test rig. John

Warphi, Yes, you are right, the chamber in the head is the combustion chambet. Score one. Have you ever seen the inside of a Triumph combustion chamber? The walls are vertical - the shape is unchanged by skimming (reasonable skimming) And do you know anything about combustion and CR? The whole point of increasing the CR is that combustion at higher pressure is more efficient - if you can live with the NOx. Do you know anything about decking the block? The purpose is to equalise CR across the block - it will change it only fractionally And as for "having the flat pistons domed" - fantasy, by adding or taking away metal. John

No, but I'll have a word with Soo, Grabbit & Runne about their nicking my tradename! John