[Cooling too efficient 😄]

dont forget on stabilised bi metal gauges the voltage stabiliser has everything to do with where the needle sits 

its there to keep gauges stable otherwise as the charge voltage varies so would your readings 

Pete

 

[Rebuild Costs on a MK2 Vitesse Engine]

I have a long time ago with a 1300fwd that dropped a thrust and the crank machined the thrust locating lugs off the brg cap

we had the crank ground and welded two new lumps on the cap to re support the thrusts 

this lasted over 10 years of use 

Pete

 

[Spitfire 1500 runs like a bag of nails until it's warm]

Will,  chasing your tail is all part of the "fun" 

classics can and do run really well ,as good as when they  were new  but getting there can be a 

long slow route of unravelling previous concoctions  of poor meddling .

it can take a season to get to know your car and its traits 

you will get straight answers on this forum , never follow daft ideas from the pub of FB 

unless you want to chase myths !!!

have fun   it will all come together 

Pete

[Cooling too efficient 😄]

2 hours ago, cliff.b said:

Am I correct in thinking

Yes  

[Cooling too efficient 😄]

most of the 1500 spitty spec a 88c stat for uk/euro 

if yours is barely moving the gauge it suggests to thermostat is stuffed 

an 82c  will  show as a reduced   gauge reading 

Pete

[Herald 13/60 Resto + Auto Conversion]

we made some simple wooden spars with a slot in each end to slot over the seal flange to make sure the door gap 

did not close up on tightening the rear tub 

i recommend a pair of solid mounts on the diff cross member  

you dont want the tubs to shift  at the first speed hump which with rubbers all round has no positive fixing

do have a think about a good wire earth bond between all sections while it in bits 

saves a lot of volt drop on tail lamps etc .

Pete

 

[Spitfire 1500 runs like a bag of nails until it's warm]

well spark plugs are the life and soul  but sooted can lead to plug failure 

here is a link to some thoughts on modern plugs dont suit carb /choke operation as well as they used to

once the ceramic is "contaminated" by poor fueling you seem its not cleanable lots of alternatives but 

the lack of glaze does seem to plague us , less choke /drive it quick is the best solution 

any back fires point to a dodgy condenser ( but if electronics are installed you wont have one) 

 

[Spitfire 1500 runs like a bag of nails until it's warm]

agree the choke not returning the jet to its adjusting nut after use is a very common SU problem

some need a few mm cutting off the jet tube as these can make return sticky .

a quick prod with a finger after returning the choke will soon show if the jet has stuck in a enriched position 

Pete

[Spitfire 1500 runs like a bag of nails until it's warm]

i dont think your running headache is anything to do with the base engine its all to do with ancillaries 

R is resistive theres a good few you tube examples testing the reduction in HT 

fine on a 35kv modern but not good in our lower 22kv HT 

so its been clear to me that missfires are caused by corking up the HT    some use them and have no problem 

so its stick to simples not go chasing red herrings 

blocking the intake vents can cause chaos

there are some awful dizzy condensers about  best get one from distributor doctor 

Reconditioned Lucas distributors, rebuilt Lucas distributors, recurved Lucas distributors from Distributor Doctor

does delco parts too   have a read about rotor and condensers 

Pete

[Spitfire 1500 runs like a bag of nails until it's warm]

as a 1500 is it still on waxstat jets ????  a known nightmare

as you have been messing with the carbs have you disturbed the fuel hoses   as refitting will make rubber slivers 

these can block jam up the float needle valve .

there is an easy fix to waxstats  will use 2 x 2  1p pieces .

dont use plugs with an R in the suffix.

soot after choke will take a Loooong time to burn off the plugs .

what air filters do you have ., makes sure the filters gaskets are not obstructing the carb vents .

more to follow as you give us more clues 

Pete

 

[Thermostat housing corrosion & coolant issue]

i believe the current blue is less corrosive than the historic  whiich did eat any alloy parts 

jell used  happen in Oat and Gycol  manage to get  mixed 

you corrosion is not uncommon and may be from  a time ago ,

there used to be a green glycol for alloy , no clues about  4 life 

[Do you M.O.T. Test your Classic]

yes my first 948 was a 59 rot box 6yrs old and more holes than car 

Pete

[Do you M.O.T. Test your Classic]

can you get the car MOT before you pay for it ???

pete

[Do you M.O.T. Test your Classic]

If you have a current insurance with P james then you are automaticaly cover to drive other members?  cars 

and I promote having an MOT every year as this proves out the brake balance which you cant DIY 

and might find the one thing you felt was fine when it had degraded to a concern 

good for peace of mind and safety to others 

Pete

 

[Herald wheel nut thread size?]

if you want to keep unified then TR/big saloon studs are 7/16UNF are also a direct fit 

in the small chassis hubs .

some use a ford 12mm    the choices are quite wide 

uncle bl**dy Pete 

 

[Herald 13/60 Resto + Auto Conversion]

the very front two are just one metal no rubber here .

these two in the front rigger are location and have little adjustment one rubber on all others with as many spacers as needed to align 50 yr wonky body with 50yr wonky body

when refitting the body its well worth earth bonding all body and chassis sections with a decent earth wire ,front to back .

does  save a lot of voltage loss to the bonnet and tail lamps

Pete

[Herald wheel nut thread size?]

or an 8x4   4 axle  and 80 nuts      

had a torque meter for checking production... looked   more like a parking meter up to 600 lbft   yes took some wielding 

always gave the audit task to the strongest  ,   anyone weedy couldnt hack it 

Pete

[Triumph Courier Values]

easy done  even I missed it and i have valued a couple of vans over the years 

Pete

[GT6 Engine Return Basics]

do cover the windscreen   if the lifting makes a  swing towards it ...it breaks  !!!

odd bit of ply or hardboard  will make it safe 

Pete

[Triumph Courier Values]

i would get some photo's and send off for Bern to advise 

Pete

[GT6 Engine Return Basics]

dont forget as you raise the engine the car will raise as well as its load gets lighter 

Pete

[Cylinder heads]

that gasket has let go due to lost clamping ....soft washers and lost torque

its the nuts that will be black not the studs   ( sorry i left 'nuts' out )

Pete

[GT6 Engine Return Basics]

as a infrequent  i just stuff the hole with paper towel or similar   to keep it from attracting debris

no reason why you just remove the remote hsg,  then smaller hole exposed   but a bit less clearance 

removing the remote /top cover just aids clearance and the angle of dangle to clear the bulkhead opening 

no real need to get carried away 

Pete

[Cylinder heads]

well at least the carbs are CDS  simple  no frills   with cold satrt choke on the front unit   tubed to the rear one  thats good 

better studs   unlikely that that is possible , its the nuts and washers are the weak link here  not the studs  

the 42-46lbft is quite adequate for the 3/8 studs    the washers deforming is the main snag  and never use std 3/8 nuts they wont take more than 31lbft  

the orig Nuts are  oil quenched  black finish  .  mini flanged nuts are the way to  progress but bear in ming knurled washer faces can absorb tightening torque

Pete

 

[The dreaded spitfire rear hub]

If the hub flange gets distorted  have them skimmed in a lathe to reface them 

saves any drum run out etc.

Pete